Holley advertises direct compatibility with LS1/ls2 hardware.
Which is true.
BUT their "ls1 ignition parameters" aren't right. Understandable, but their instructions and info table is truly unhelpful so I had to do some more exploring.
I ended up switching to a custom ignition set up.
Kept the 24x crank sensor setting obviously but noticed that the cam sensor was defaulting to a 4x sensor which is wrong.
Switched that to a one-pulse magnetic signal and moved the dwell time to 5ms
This all resulted in a nice smooth rpm signal, idled at the target 1100rpm, dropped to 60kpa at the map, 15.5:1afr and showed 0 errors.
Crisis averted.
I figured out my goof with the gauges as well.
They have to be pinned directly into the ecu, not through an output (dont know how the hell that made sense to me in the first place but i digress). But there's only 1 pin (p1-a15 if anyone cares). So I'll have to chain the rest of them together.
Pretty neat setup now that it works and they're programmed. The fuel gauge still needs some wires ran.
Fans are wired and work seperate of each other. Made it easier to let the car run today and kept me cool while I cursed at everything.
I won't have to keep the test drives so short now.
In other news:
The alternator is dead. I know the wiring is right because my old logs showed a steady 14+ volts running.
Now it sits at 11 and dies as you crank. Going to hit advance auto and trade it for another when I return my cam/crank sensors.
I'm gonna guess a spike from the starter killed it. I don't have a fuse in line now so that's what I'm blaming.
NO ONE carries a mega fuse block at any of the 5 parts stores I went to. Yet they all carry the big assed fuses.
Alas, that's what lifetime warranties are for.
If it does the trick I'll put some street miles on it. Should be interesting since I took the mufflers off.
It drew quite a bit of attention from the neighborhood I drove through the other day as my return lap was greeted with people standing in their yards. At least half of them weren't ****ed off