Well, I was wanting a Cobra, but the insurance would bend me over and yea. Now I am debating about getting a 96-98 Gt and putting every bolton on it. I am not talking about the stock non pi heads or intake. How can I get 300-320 hp at the wheels? I have read where some people got 290hp with just some bolt ons, cams, and with stock unported heads. What if I where to get some ported heads and a p-51 intake manifold (or is the manifold not worth it) with the appropriate cams? My question would be, what works with what and is my goal reachable? I don't want a supercharger. Let's get that question out of the way. Reason is, that would cost me more in the long run than doing n/a. I like n/a better anyways. I want this as a daily driver that barely gets driven (like 3-5 miles a day and zero miles on the weekend), so 300hp is enough for me. I will eventually build up another mustang with a supercharger. Once I graduate with my masters degree. Reason I don't drive much is because I live a block away from my school and my job right next to my school. If I wasn't lazy and the weather was good I could walk, but i'd perfer to drive.
your looking at about spending anywhere from 3.5k to 4.5k to get those numbers. I'm right around 320-330 rwhp on my 98gt and I have CNC PP Pi heads, Long tube headers, comp 262 cams, trickflow plenum, Pi lower intake, JLT CAI, custom dyno tune with XCal 2, and a BUNCH of other stuff that doesn't really matter as much.
it'd be cheaper and easier to buy a 96-98 with engine problems but sweet paint and drop a 4v in there form a 96-98 or 99/01. You'd thank me when you put bolt on's on it and actually get gains too. Problem with a fully built 2v is that you have no real chance for boost in the future with the high compression and your car sounds and acts like a 10/11 second car while driving it around town when it's really a upper 12's car
yeah, but then IMO you dont drive around a fast car. You drive a around a car that can be very fast. Meant no disrespect to those who spray, just saying what i enjoy about owning a car.
What if you drive around a fast car that can be faster with Spray???? cause...i think imma juice one of my stangs up soon
12's as a daily driver? I think that is acceptable. Remember, I plan on building a blown mustang when I graduate. I moved from a place that has built ls1's and more ls1's to a place that has rice out the a**. I am talking about, haha, this 91 prelude with a huge wing out back and two holes in his hood. From what you may ask? The two holes are for the two air filters!!! HAHAHA. One that went straight into the other (WTF??) I pointed at this guy and laughed. Well he just flipped me off, but that made it even funnier. 3.5-4.5k for mods is good compared to buying a 12k cobra. As with the GT only being worth $4700 if it's in good condition. Thanks for the replies.
i respect staying NA.. when that was my plan i was going to go with a relly high compression with full bolt ons.. then juice the hell out of it later (the NAWZ loves compression) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCDN9ObvvtQ listen to this beast
you don't need 300-320 to get upper 12's. Just some suspension, MT's and a pi swap w/ cams and bolt ons. But i'm just saying, the hp mark shouldn't be the basis when talking N/A - cuz if you want 320+ you're going to be spending twice as much as when wanting 280-290 or so and will be driving a car that acts like a 11 second N/A car yet still takes driver skill to get inot the 12's
i still maintain buying a 98 with engine problems for like 1.5-2k and then dropping a 4v in it for like 4-5k. BUUUT, you said you wanted to build a blown stang later on. So instead of PI swap which brings your compression up to 10.5:1 that would hinder your blower plans unless you built the block with forged parts. I say buy a set of NPI heads for like $50-70 and have them ported for you for around $500-600. Then a nice blower cam if you're certain you'll eventually go blower since it works well w/ NA too (or a stage 1 na cam). Buy some springs (i found comp cam beehives for $100 shipped), some LT headers and mid pipe + catback. The accompanying PI intake unless you're set on spending a bunch of money on a P-51. Then some bolt ons. Id say thats good for around 280-290rwhp/310tq NA, and very well suited for boost in the future.
you can also port the swirl out of the PI heads and you will retain almost the same compression as a 99+ pi motor.. ive heard..
The n/a mustang and the s/c mustang are two different mustangs. I want an n/a for driving daily and a s/c mustang for the weekends. I live in an apartment. I have no garage or no work space to do an engine swap. The 4v swap is out of the question. That is why I said a n/a 2v. I understand were you are coming from, but you don't have all the information about my problems with the 4v swap. Now that you know, can you help me build a n/a combo? If a p-51 intake will help me get to my goals, then I'll buy it.
swapping heads, decreeing cams, and making the p-51 work with the fuel rails is pretty much the same labor as an engine swap. Matter of fact, many techs take out the engine to swap heads. But that aside, what are your goals? How forgiving do you want this weekday driver to be? If you want a good amount of power your supercharged mustang might be a better daily driver than your NA mustang
How about stock PI heads that are mildly ported, with stage one cam's, PI intake manifold, and some other bolt ons? That shouldn't be too much, right? or maybe not even touching the heads, since you can get 280hp with bolt ons and cams.
By the way, I do have a friend that has a shop, but I wont be able to store the stang in their long. A 4v motor swap would take me awhile, since school comes first. I will ask my friend if he has any extra space though. How much is a 96-98 4v motor?
