I don't know if this has ever been discussed but here goes. 89 LX with balanced/blueprinted 5.0, Power dyne supercharger, Cobra intake, 70mm TB, 5 gear, 3.55 posi 8.8. This combo runs OK, pretty fast but still have issues with EEC IV ECU. Being 34 year old technology it's adequate at best. I'd like to know if it's possible to swap out the intake manifold, injectors etc for a good single plane manifold with one of the new throttle body fuel injection systems like the Holley Sniper with computerized monitoring/control of all the fuel parameters. Will the EEC IV control the ignition timing alone relieving it of all fuel related issues. I can run without the supercharger first adapting for it later, but reliability and excellent driveability are my goals. I started with carburetors about 100 years ago and getting tired of all the EEC IV failings, difficulties with diagnosing seemingly minor issues and voltage level related problems. Sacrilege I know but I'm a rebel/scientist willing to gamble for a better outcome. Who knows, if this works well it could become a trend. LOL. Thanks, Rob.
Fuel Throttle body fuel injection
- Thread starter Robertstang
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Holley Sniper has it faults as well just do a Google search. Terminator X would be a much better solution or even a Pimp XS or MSPnP Plug and Play as the last two use the factory EEC wiring harness.
Many a boosted Fox are running very well of the ECC-IV with a chip, quarter horse, etc. so tuning is more likely the issue.
But if you are fed up with it then go aftermarket but do your research.
Many a boosted Fox are running very well of the ECC-IV with a chip, quarter horse, etc. so tuning is more likely the issue.
But if you are fed up with it then go aftermarket but do your research.
Hey dude, thanks for the acknowledgement. So have others tried swapping out the intake, injectors and map sensor for the simpler TB injection systems? Who makes the Terminator X system? I'd be curious to see if there's a manufacturer who already supplies all the necessary accessories to perform this transplant. Much akin to open heart surgery. Rob.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Whatever you do don't use FiTech. They have been having a lot of issues. Just had to replace a brand new one on a customer's car after a couple months of back and forth diag with their tech support. My advise is to call Summit and talk to one of their tech line folks. They'll get you straightened out with some good info and maybe even a good deal.
How do you know the computer is your problem?
A powerdyne kit is pretty low level.
A damaged or failing computer may be a problem, but if it's good condition it can easily handle a powerdyne, just like it has for vortechs for the past 30 years.
A powerdyne kit is pretty low level.
A damaged or failing computer may be a problem, but if it's good condition it can easily handle a powerdyne, just like it has for vortechs for the past 30 years.
The computer is probably fine I’m just having trouble setting the idle and getting everything to work together in sync. I’ve heard such horror stories on this site and from others that I would just like to try something different.
It’s not a very radical cam, around 230 duration but it’s got .570 total lift using 1.7 ratio rockers. I have to add that I removed the diverter valve assembly and plugged all those vacuum lines. The air pump is still rotating, but just pushing air through a filter into the engine compartment. I had redone several vacuum lines and put in quality silicone tubing. I’ll be resetting the TPS, timing, and idle this weekend. I understand that I have to disconnect the IAC and the spout set up in order to start the process. Is that the recommended method?
I found out the cam is the Ford "B" camshaft which has 224 degrees duration for both Int/Exh and .480 lift with 1.6 rockers or .520 with 1.7 rockers. Upon examination (with a neighbor whose auto savvy) there was no SPOUT found anywhere. I slotted the TPS because the value at idle was above the 1.25 upper limit. Bought a cigar to test for vacuum leaks, hope it works as I've never seen so many vacuum lines in an engine bay. I understand the intake manifold can be a major leaker as well.
This is why I'm considering swapping out manifold, injectors and MAF for a good single plane and throttle body injector system like the Terminator X as I've been warned away from FITECH due to complications.
Any further input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
This is why I'm considering swapping out manifold, injectors and MAF for a good single plane and throttle body injector system like the Terminator X as I've been warned away from FITECH due to complications.
Any further input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
Just to be certain this is what you are looking for and what’re you should be looking with regards to the spout connector:
All 87-93 5.0 Mustangs came with one.
All 87-93 5.0 Mustangs came with one.
Yes sir, I’ve been watching YouTube vid’s about setting the timing process and my neighbor couldn’t find it either. We looked diligently on both sides of the intake and only find injector connectors, manifold sensor (possibly temp or vacuum). Engine was professionally built in Colorado, is it possible they used a spout delete with regard to timing advance. I wish there was someone around here (Paris, TX) that I trusted enough to look at this car.
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To tune an EEC-IV the connection point is on the opposite end of the 60 pin connector. You have to “scrap” off the coating that is covering the “fingers” so the chip or connector can make contact.
There was a sticker over the connector that said warranty void if removed, so I was afraid to do that.
I tried a five star programmer on my pick up truck through the OBD two and it worked great but the gas mileage sucked big-time. I’m afraid that on the mustang it’s really bad too.
Is there a way I can return the tune back to stock so that I can have a good compromise between gas mileage and power possibly run it on regular fuel?
I tried a five star programmer on my pick up truck through the OBD two and it worked great but the gas mileage sucked big-time. I’m afraid that on the mustang it’s really bad too.
Is there a way I can return the tune back to stock so that I can have a good compromise between gas mileage and power possibly run it on regular fuel?
So two different worlds man. On the EEC-IV the only way you get multiple tunes is if the chip is like an SCT switch chip (I have this) and has a cable that goes to the chip that allows you to toggle between tunes or if you have a Quarterhorse or similar tuner and upload different tunes to the chip.
With your truck you actually write to the the processor and change the factory programming and there is no physical aftermarket chip. I will also say that your bad gas mileage with your truck was directly related to your foot. My truck is tuned and the mileage sucked at first because I was driving it harder than normal because it was fun. Got used to it and now drive it normal with the occasional rip and it does fine.
With your truck you actually write to the the processor and change the factory programming and there is no physical aftermarket chip. I will also say that your bad gas mileage with your truck was directly related to your foot. My truck is tuned and the mileage sucked at first because I was driving it harder than normal because it was fun. Got used to it and now drive it normal with the occasional rip and it does fine.
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