Fuel Throttle body fuel injection

So two different worlds man. On the EEC-IV the only way you get multiple tunes is if the chip is like an SCT switch chip (I have this) and has a cable that goes to the chip that allows you to toggle between tunes or if you have a Quarterhorse or similar tuner and upload different tunes to the chip.

With your truck you actually write to the the processor and change the factory programming and there is no physical aftermarket chip. I will also say that your bad gas mileage with your truck was directly related to your foot. My truck is tuned and the mileage sucked at first because I was driving it harder than normal because it was fun. Got used to it and now drive it normal with the occasional rip and it does fine.
OK so the mustang is what it is. I guess there’s no tune on it but what happened to the spout chip? It’s a remanufactured CPU unit, did they alter it when it was being re-manufactured? What do you suggest?

It was a Banks programmer I tried on the truck and had to run premium fuel. Sent it back and put a cold air intake with a TB spacer. Plenty of hp (about 415) with 20 mpg at 70. Love my Coyote 10 speed.

I’ll put everything back on the stang and try to set it again.
 
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If it was me it would unwrap the harness from the distributor plug back and see if the wires are just cut and in there. If they are you can buy a new spout connector that has pigtails on it and just wire it back in.
 
So what was the benefit of locking out the timing? I understood that max hp is attained when time advances to a total of about 35 degrees at redline.

Once I get it all back together and running well enough that I can put a light on the cramk I’m going to rev the engine to see if it truly is locked out at 10 deg.

Does it have anything to do with being supercharged and not needing the advance. All new to me, aleays been NA up till now.
 
Looks good though don’t it.
 

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What heads are on this car? The cam is usually what puts the factory computer over the edge (and even at that, it will take quite a bit more). A B cam should never be an issue.
Have you tried the surging idle checklist?

Switching over to another system for minor issues (which in your case are almost sure to be mechanical) is like going to the dentist for a cavity and instead of having it filled you pull the tooth.
 
I’ve been looking on YouTube for any information I can find about this car and I got the idle set list and have tried that in order. The surging supposedly comes from a vacuum disorder/leak so I’m in the process of tracing that down.

The heads are Edelbrock variety. Not sure what part number, but thery’re matched for a small block blown Ford.

As far as modifications go, I’ve always believed in high-performance better than stock. I’m looking at a Vehicle that’s now 34 years old with this type of drivetrain and compared to what I’m driving today which is a dual overhead cam racing motor in my pick up truck.

Carmakers have adopted our ways of thinking and I’m so happy about that. Buying a stock vehicle with 400 hp and good gas mileage, you just can’t beat that.

An engine that runs close to 90% volumetric efficiency, or more, is going to pollute less.

I’m also refurbing an AC Cobra with 351W, 4 gear top loader, jag rear set up. The LX is a side diversion.
 
I’ve been looking on YouTube for any information I can find about this car and I got the idle set list and have tried that in order. The surging supposedly comes from a vacuum disorder/leak so I’m in the process of tracing that down.

The heads are Edelbrock variety. Not sure what part number, but thery’re matched for a small block blown Ford.

As far as modifications go, I’ve always believed in high-performance better than stock. I’m looking at a Vehicle that’s now 34 years old with this type of drivetrain and compared to what I’m driving today which is a dual overhead cam racing motor in my pick up truck.

Carmakers have adopted our ways of thinking and I’m so happy about that. Buying a stock vehicle with 400 hp and good gas mileage, you just can’t beat that.

An engine that runs close to 90% volumetric efficiency, or more, is going to pollute less.

I’m also refurbing an AC Cobra with 351W, 4 gear top loader, jag rear set up. The LX is a side diversion.
I might add that if I had built this car, I’d know more about it, but it’s been handled by a professional engine building shop and my buddy drove it for 32 of those 34 years and knows basically nothing about it except what’s written on the build list.
 

There is no better source for solving idling issues.