V3 Almost!
- Thread starter smkshw
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Milk shake in the oil ?
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Yes,oil is coffee color....breather caps and oil cap has condensation on them.....so i ran the tester 3 times.....shows negative?......looked into the rad,with water below filler neck and no bubbles?.....when i checked it last time with the funnel it was just pulsating up and down and i was able to see a few idk?
Should i do a leak down test now?....best case is my lower intake manifold hey?
Drain the oil, if you see water/coolant in it, time for a regasket. When you put it back together, double check head and deck flatness, and good gaskets (9333 head, 1250s3 intake ). I would also double check the timing cover gasket, but that's just because I've had one fail (and it causes one hell of a mess).
Then, like has been said before, find a tuner who actually knows what he's doing.
Then, like has been said before, find a tuner who actually knows what he's doing.
so you dont think it could be coming from intake gasket?....im going to take it appart tomorrow and see,but would be best case
Very much could be intake, especially if it's got the paper 1250's, but with your compression i think the hg is more likely. If it IS the intake, and it failed in the usual place (water port), it should be fairly obvious as soon as you pull the lower. I'd go ahead and order intake and head gaskets at the same time, will limit your down time some if you have to dig deeper and you can always return them if you don't open them (or keep as spares )
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
rent a compression tester before you start ripping it apart Then do a leak down test if you come across any cylinders that read outside of a 10% variance to the low side. .When you do the leakdown, a leak where the air is going into an adjacent cylinder or into the coolant indicates a blown head gasket or cracked head.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
sorry man.. who is the tuner so we know never to use him? There is no way you should lift a HG after a tune and IMo he should be eating it ,or at least covering the labor.
im from canada....you guys dont have to worry about them,its a local speed shop we have,called mopac.....idk man....he gave a few excuses and i went on my way.....said weak head gaskets maybe,and a few other things....but only reason im a little mad is i stressed to keep it safe and keep the boost down and this happends.....but we see,if its just a intake gasket its minor....so no point knocking anyone just yet,he did a great job on my old set up,and he was supposed to tweek it again tday,so i know he wanted to make it right....i just have the worst luck on this planet i think!
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
Any reputable tuner would be willing to help after a catastrophe, even if he doesn't think it's his fault. Either doing some of the repair work or refunding at least some of your money. I don't like the guy from what I'm hearing so far. Sounds to me like he is good at running the machine maybe, but nothing else and the everything else is what it takes to both tune a car right and make a good reputation...
ya well other than a couple head gasket suggestions he wasnt much help.....but before i tear into it,he says my car was running hot?....it cycles from 195-200 to 185?....it always ran this way,gets hotter as weather does also?....he says his stroker runs 150-160 all day long with more hp?....i have all upgraded cooling stuff,and unless i drive it in october,no way i can get such low temps?....idk?,you guys tell me?
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
From what I understand about a cars coolant temperature is this:
1. An engineer smarter than us DESIGNED the temp range for the engine for a reason. This usually can be changed for mods we attempt but not much is needed.
2. Science plays a role in such that the temp of the coolant is crucial to be able to absorb the greatest amount of energy (heat) from the surrounding metal (engine parts it touches) and carry that heat to the radiator to be cooled down enough to be maintained.
So the engineers usually get the temp up to a level for greatest emissions for obvious reasons. This usually means you can lower that temp for racing and achieve a better coolant efficiency based on hard pulls to keep your expensive racing parts lasting longer rather than emission helping.
I understand that our stock temp to have a Stat at 192°. Lowering that a level to 180° is an acceptable level that still meets heat transferring capabilities. Any lower than that and I'm not sure your doing any good. And if you can't get it that low this tells you why. Once the water gets so cold it won't absorb enough heat to transfer well. I think it will counteract. This is why a Stat is used to get the water heated to a proper temp before it starts transferring it to radiator to maintain engine temps.
I could be wrong here (and someone will let us know ;-)) but 180° Stat for street use is just about perfect. My advice would be not to worry about getting your temps down to 160. Check for damage, get her sealed back up, and find a good tuner.
1. An engineer smarter than us DESIGNED the temp range for the engine for a reason. This usually can be changed for mods we attempt but not much is needed.
2. Science plays a role in such that the temp of the coolant is crucial to be able to absorb the greatest amount of energy (heat) from the surrounding metal (engine parts it touches) and carry that heat to the radiator to be cooled down enough to be maintained.
So the engineers usually get the temp up to a level for greatest emissions for obvious reasons. This usually means you can lower that temp for racing and achieve a better coolant efficiency based on hard pulls to keep your expensive racing parts lasting longer rather than emission helping.
I understand that our stock temp to have a Stat at 192°. Lowering that a level to 180° is an acceptable level that still meets heat transferring capabilities. Any lower than that and I'm not sure your doing any good. And if you can't get it that low this tells you why. Once the water gets so cold it won't absorb enough heat to transfer well. I think it will counteract. This is why a Stat is used to get the water heated to a proper temp before it starts transferring it to radiator to maintain engine temps.
I could be wrong here (and someone will let us know ;-)) but 180° Stat for street use is just about perfect. My advice would be not to worry about getting your temps down to 160. Check for damage, get her sealed back up, and find a good tuner.
Agreed 100% bud.....if it is a head gasket he just wanted to try and say my car ran too hot im sure,because i know and you know that we need to be around the 180 mark.....he just kept saying that i should try to get my temps down to 160,as if!
Well the block tester came back negative,Im doing a compression test and leak down test tommorow,gona blow some air in the cylinders and hope that no air bubbles come through my rad!, then ill take the top end off and prey its the intake manifold gasket!!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
great news- let's hope the leak down shows an intake leak. Listen for air coming out the TB opening. or the oil filler.
that would be bad new wouldnt it?.....with cylinder top dead center?....if it bubbles that would be head gasket or block right?.....so far drivers side checks out....with 90psi it holdes 84psi on all 4 an semi cold engine
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
If you hear it out of the intake, oil filler then it is either a bad intake valve- If you have a bad intake gasket check around the perimiter of the lower intake as well by squirting some soapy water and looking for bubbles or hissing noise on the cylinder you are doing the test on
If you hear it out of an adjacent cylinder spark plug hole or see bubbles in the radiator then most likely a HG or cracked block
If you hear it whistling out the tailpipe then most likely exhaust valve
No air heard leaking but you see a leakdown of 20% or more- bad rings,cylinders worn
Normal to see up to 15% leakdown on a used street motor. What you dont want to see is a huge variance between cylinders.
If you hear it out of an adjacent cylinder spark plug hole or see bubbles in the radiator then most likely a HG or cracked block
If you hear it whistling out the tailpipe then most likely exhaust valve
No air heard leaking but you see a leakdown of 20% or more- bad rings,cylinders worn
Normal to see up to 15% leakdown on a used street motor. What you dont want to see is a huge variance between cylinders.
Similar threads
