voltage drop??

[DMAN302]

I have intalled a new battery, and over the last 24hours the battery has lost voltage while in the car(from 12.3 to 11.90). I did remove every fuse from the panel and unpluged the alternator and put a test meter on the battery. I touched off on the positive post with one side, and with the positve cable detached place the other lead of the meter on the positive cable. I am still getting a tone (positive indicator of continuity)..which means to me I'm still sending current somewhere. I was under the understanding that I would not be showing continuity if all fuses were removed?? am I incorrect?

 

[Raginstang]

yes pulling all the fuses should get rid of the voltage drop, unless you have a stereo, amp etc feeding from battery.. also, make sure the trunk light, dome lights area off doors are closed when you do the test, you should have some voltage drop from, cpu clock etc, good luck..

 

[80cobra5.0]

voltage drop

could be in the wiring going to the fuse box, you know somethin rubbed the insulation down and now a wire has ground out. Dealt with that on an old Suburban once that was a pain in the arse

 

[HISSIN50]

Derek, i would start removing the items on the solenoid - I think Ragin has the right idea. you might have an unexpected continuous draw (often a bad diode in the alt - though you already checked that out. ).
as you know, be sure the fuse for the door is the first thing checked and left off - or the results get jacked.
good luck.

 

[DMAN302]

The test indicator ceased to indicate when I removed the black/orange strip wire from the selenoid. I thought this was for the EEC though I could be mistaken. I want to start the car up for the first this year on sunday..I hope my little screw up with crossed batter posts didn't fubar my ECU. Is it correct for me to have the test light indicate for the blk/orange wire when tested? Note: this wire is not one of the four fuseable links, but a separate line the has no fuseable link in close proximity to the solenoid.

 

[Michael Yount]

I'm not certain of the harness in the Stang - but there should be some continuous supply of 12V+ to the ecu otherwise you'd lose your Keep Alive Memory everytime you shut the car down. I would think it would somehow be fused though. And the amount of current it should draw would be miniscule. You should be able to let the car sit for months without the memory draw hurting the battery significantly.

 

[DMAN302]

Well I have let the battery sit to measure for any voltage loss possibly due to a bad battery. With the meter leads on the positive cable and the other meter lead on the black/orange wire in question(this wire detached from the solenoid),and meter set at 200ma I did get a reading of 2.3 on the meter.I interprete that as 2.3ma which to me seems reasonable...provided my method of testing this wire are correct.

 

[tmoss]

Yes, 2.3 on a 200ma scale means 2.3ma - there is no black wire with an orange stripe wire that belongs connected dirtectly to the solenoid.

 

[DMAN302]

I didin't see why there was either, but this wire runs directly into the smaller of the two wire harnesses leading away from the coil. I follow the wire as it heads towards the passenger side of the car. The wire has no visible fuseable link in close proximity to the solenoid. I think there may have been one at one time, as I can only see this being the wire to the EEC and EEC relay. I have not attempted to start the car yet this season but will run the codes KOEO when I get home...would find it very comforting to have the computer issue SOME codes to show me she's still alive. I am starting her sunday..I HOPE all goes well, I grow very weary of chasing wires..thanks TMOSS(your wiring diagrams have SAVED MY A**-thanks for those)/MIKE/JT I will keep you up to date.

 

[getusummm]

Is the black/oragnge wire a fairly heavy gauge. Around 4 or so? If I am not mistaken, that is the wire from the alternator itself.

 

[DMAN302]

Unfortunately it is not the alt wire, this one heads in a loom towards the drivers side firewall and redirects towards the passenger side along the firewall.

 

[tmoss]

OK, there are 3 wires that come off the soleniod and further down the line are connected to Black/Orange wires. One is a green wire that goes toward the alternator where it meets a 14ga link becomes a Black/Orange and 18ga link connected to a Yeelow/White wire feeding the alternator regulator - that's not the one you are talking about.

A 20ga Drak Blue wire leaves the soleniod and meets a 20ga fuse link that becomes two Black/Orange wires, one to the KAM and one to the EEC relay power - I suspect that's the one you are speaking about. You might have a car that blew the 20ga link and someone just didn't replace it.

The thrid one starts at the soleniod as the Yellow wire that goes a shor distance and is connected to many wires that branch out, one of which is Balck/Orange and it feeds fuse #4 in the fuse block.

 

[DMAN302]

I suspect the 20 amp fuse was not replaced, all other wires check out a you indicated...I would figure that 2.3ma on the EEC/EEC relay wire would be acceptable. Should the wire be showing any draw when tested? would the fact that the pump does prime and sucessful test for codes work properly indicate the computer is OK? Reasons for asking is car experience -12V reverse polarity (reversed battery cables...don't ask) so I worry the experience has fried the EEC or EEC relay..but after replaceing headlight switch and radio fuse all other wiring checks out OK..my concearn at this point is more can the EEC and relay handle the -12v