Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

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Thanks bud. The seam sealer is made by Lord. This line of sealer is called Fusor 800EZ. I got it from my painter. It's a professional grade sealer. Not as 'professional' as those sealers that use the dual cartridge caulk guns to appy it, but it's still good stuff.

I'm applying the Raptor Liner as we speak. Just waiting for the first coat to flash, then I can hit it one more time...
Thanks! _ I'm writing that down - the end result of the underside looks awesome!!
 
Just a thought, but are you planning on running the brake a fuel lines now while it is on it's side? Would be easier I Think to do it now then laying on your back.

That would be nice, but I don't really know where everything will be going just yet, so I'm going to have to hold off until I get the drivetrain in the car. The IRS subframe takes up a lot a real estate, so routing the lines around that will be tricky.

Any BTW Noobz347, you got issues man!
 
That would be nice, but I don't really know where everything will be going just yet, so I'm going to have to hold off until I get the drivetrain in the car. The IRS subframe takes up a lot a real estate, so routing the lines around that will be tricky.

Any BTW Noobz347, you got issues man!

Trudat... Drove the Fox to work today and got a pretty good "THUNK" when I turned the wheel left after getting back out of the gas. Need to look under there. Could be C/A bushing... Limited slip... something in the back end. :chin
 
Yeah the bedliner material can take up the slop in the C/A bushings :D then you dont have to replace them, plus it will hide the noise as well..:rlaugh:

Scott, thats cheaper then the Lizard Skin I was looking at...not bad!
 
Yea Rick. I'm sure the Lizard Skin is a better product in terms of it's ability to reject heat or sound depending on which kind you get, but it seems that it's typically meant to be top coated, and I honestly didn't feel like going through that. The Raptor Liner has a nice semi-gloss finish, so it saved me from having to paint the bottom once again.
 
Built myself a handy dandy little dolly tonight to be able to get the shell onto a flatbed and also so the painter can move the car around the shop. Nothing more than a couple of 4x4's and some heavy duty castors. Should be good to hold over 1600 lbs.

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I also took advantage of the nice weather to paint my IRS subframe and upper control arms. I would have liked to just have everything powedercoated, but all the IRS parts already have the Full-Tilt bushings installed, and they are a major PITA to get out and put back in, so chassis paint will have to do! I'm trying to get all the parts painting out of the way while I still have warm weather around.

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Car will be rolled back to its 'normal' position tomorrow. Then begins the engine bay body work...
 
Hah. Thanks Mike. Others on this board have also made it clear that I definitely have issues :crazy:

Hope that Bullitt is treating you well. I didn't realize that thing was so beastly!

Thanks man! Yea I just did the blower a few months back and it's a BLAST!

I wish we lived closer, I'd be paying your garage a visit every weekend!

Do you have a link to that chassis paint? I'm going to be taking my IRS out soon and doing all the bushings, so while I'm in there I'm probably going to paint everything as well.
 
This is the stuff I used on the subframe. It's very durable and sprays very nice. Just takes a while to fully cure.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-extreme-chassis-black-satin-aerosol-14-oz.html

On the control arms, I just used Rust Encapsulator. They had some surface rust on them so this stuff will take care of that, and I liked the flat black look for contrast. I'll be curious to see how this stuff holds up over time.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html

So then , you are spraying all of this stuff outta a can? (Not that that is a bad thing) Even the floor?

Again big giant kudos for the progress pics,....and to think...a compliment coming from a prick.

I hope we cross paths some day, I'd really like to see it when you're done.:nice:
But I'll park my car in the back so your's won't completely put me to shame.:hide:
 
I'll take the compliments from anyone, prick or not ;).

And yes, the primer and top coat on the underside was all done with Eastwood rattle cans. Their stuff has pretty good reviews, so I decided to give it a try and I like it. I use a fancy little can attachment that mounts a trigger to the can. Give much better control and makes it look a little less rattle can-ish when I'm spraying. The Raptor liner is a 2K urethane paint. Comes in bottles and you add the hardener and shoot it through a gun. In hindsight, I probably should have just done a 2K epoxy primer coat, but the Eastwood stuff should be pretty durable underneath that Raptor liner. I'm sure it will last a long time. I have a full bottle of Raptor liner left. I'm half tempted to spray a light coat on the interior side of the floor. Not sure yet though.

I did manage to get the car back on 4 wheels. They are a bit smaller than the stock wheels, but they're wheels nonetheless!

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You mean Ding Pao? I unfortunately had to let him go. For one, he kept getting stuck in the sump pump in the basement. Second, I caught him eating my dog's food on multiple occasions. Don't feel bad though. My neighbor hired him to clean the inside of his BMW's wheels after every trip he takes in the car. Paying him a whole dollar a day to do it too. Waay out of my budget.
 
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Did you have to secure the shell/body to the dolly? - don't you get movement of the shell when you 'roll' it around - looks like it would slide off - I'm debating taking my doors off - just to make my dolly (more of a body cart) lighter to move around - can you navigate yours by yourself?
 
You can't really see them in the pictures, but yes, there are 4 clamps holding the frame to the dolly. I used 2' pieces of threaded 3/8" rod. Bent them over a 4" radius to form a u-bolt. I then used flat steel stock on the bottom side of the dolly. Having the tubular subframe connectors made it very easy to bolt everything together. It takes nearly zero effort to move the body around. Just leaning against the car makes it move.

The dolly will be used to get the body on a flatbed so it can be transported to the paint shop and back.
 
You can't really see them in the pictures, but yes, there are 4 clamps holding the frame to the dolly. I used 2' pieces of threaded 3/8" rod. Bent them over a 4" radius to form a u-bolt. I then used flat steel stock on the bottom side of the dolly. Having the tubular subframe connectors made it very easy to bolt everything together. It takes nearly zero effort to move the body around. Just leaning against the car makes it move.

The dolly will be used to get the body on a flatbed so it can be transported to the paint shop and back.

Ah - I got it - sounds nice - I've already 'biffed' my garage door side trim + house once - and when I 'push' it out of the garage b/c of the sloped driveway - it gets away from me....:confused: and starts twirling down the drive to the street - real pain in the butt - then forget about trying to push up and back into the garage - friends are saying I should install a winch / tapcon it to the floor? ....:O_o: