Welding casters to K-member to transport for paint?

[RacEoHolic330]

I'm having my car painted in the spring and I'd like to have the front struts and CC plates removed when the engine bay is painted. Would it be feasible to weld two pneumatic casters to the front of the K-member so the car can be loaded on a flatbed and pushed around the paint shop? I plan on leaving the rear end in the car. I'm swapping the stock k-member for an aftermarket one after paint, so I'm not worried about damage. Just curious if anyone has done anything similar.

These are the type of casters I'm talking about:
Amazon.com: Waxman 4130155T 10-Inch Pneumatic Plate Caster with Swivel, Black Tire and Chrome Rim: Home Improvement

 

[stang&2Birds]

Just to be clear, the engine will be out of the car? If not, the load rating of those casters will be marginal. I'd say that with an engine, you want a load rating of at least 1,200 lbs per caster when using two casters like you linked to.

Also, IMHO, it's a much better idea to use the under wheel casters made for pushing cars around garages, and use some 4x4 wood to add height, then use a plate on top of the 4x4 (bolted to the 4x4 wood). then bolt/weld the top plate to the K-Frame. See my post below.

A single wheel per caster will result in a huge bearing load and tire load. IMHO, something that *I* wouldn't trust under my car - even for just painting. But, if you want to use those types of casters that you showed, and the the caster breaks, and your car/frame/body gets destroyed, that's your choice.

Also, if you're having that work done, then you're not scraping by living day to day with what little money you have. So, spend ~$100, get an MM K-frame support brace, and bolt the casters to the brace, and leave the K-frame alone.

Also, regardless of what some "experts" will tell you on this forum, you would never ever want to weld a caster assembly directly. Especially with pneumatic tires. The heat will stress the bearings, the race, and the tire. Again, it may work. But, do you want to risk your car? For me, I'd say no ****ing way!

Last, regardless of what caster arrangement you use, if you weld, then weld a separate plate to the k-frame/Brace and then bolt the casters to the welded plate.

BTW: Good Luck with the resto!

 

[stang&2Birds]

Here are the type of casters that I'd suggest using:

Amazon.com: Vehicle Repositioning Dolly Set - Heavy-Duty Steel with Swivel Casters - Set of Two: Home Improvement

View attachment 200325

 

[stang&2Birds]

The k-frame brace I was referring to:
K-Member Brace, 4 point, 1979-93 Mustang Hardtop [MMKB4-1] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

K-Member Brace, 4 point, 1979-93 Mustang Hardtop
$89.00
* Part # MMKB4-1
* Manufacturer: Maximum Motorsports

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I actually already have the wheel dollies, which I use to push the car around my garage. I also have a 4-point k-member brace that I just yanked off the car last night. I didn't even think about using that to bolt the casters to. Now I wish I left the damn thing on.

The engine will be out of the car in addition to all the interior and body parts. The only thing I'm leaving bolted in is the rear end and k-member. I was leaning towards the larger rubber pneumatic casters because I don't know how easy it will be to get the car on a flatbed with those tiny metal casters. They get stuck on the smallest specs of debris on my perfectly smooth garage floor.

I can probably get my hands on a thick piece of steel plate to bolt the casters to the brace. I'll have to explore that option.

Maybe a poly-tech caster would be a better choice:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...lton-Brand-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F

It would be nice if I had the ability to weigh the tongue weight of the front end.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Those casters still look like they will barely support the weight of the body. They might be rated for 200 pounds or so each. You'll need more

 

[RacEoHolic330]

According to the description, they're rated for 900lbs each.

 

[Mustang5L5]

damn...they don't look it.

Says for stationary loads...how often you plan on moving the car around?

 

[4G-KDMP]

Why not put 4 junk tires on it and not worry?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I just need them to get the body onto a flatbed and moved into a paint booth.

The CC plates can't be connected to the strut towers when I get the car painted. I have coil-overs, so it makes things a little more difficult.

 

[Mustang5L5]

How bare will the body be?

With everything out of the car (and I mean everything) 4 guys can pick it up and move it around by hand

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I was almost considering that. If I did that, I'd pull the rear and k-member which would leave just the dash frame/wiring and the 8 point chromoly rollbar inside. I'd just have to talk to the body shop and see if they have a chassis dolly or I'd probably have to fab something up using the tire dollies and wood like Joe suggested so the car can move around the shop.

The crap I will go through to have nicely painted strut towers...unbelievable.

 

[stang&2Birds]

I actually already have the wheel dollies, which I use to push the car around my garage.

If you already have the wheel dollies, then I'd suggest adding the MM K-frame support that I listed. Plus, it'll help the k-frame - not much for a stock k-frame.

But, if you have the MM support, you can use
TWO 4x4's and the dollies. Make the 4x4s about the same length as the tire to tire width.



I would do the following:

Brace with THREE 3/8" holes.

4x4 #A Use 3/8" rod to go through the 4x4 to the brace. Trim the rod end after the rod is bolted to the 4x4. Use washers.

4x4 #B Press against #A to get location of the nuts. Take down, counter-sink those impressions to allow for the nuts and the 4x4's to sit flush with each other.

Get TEN decking screws (8") that are inserted by a drill and have a hex head. Home Depot has them. Secure the 4x4's to each other.

At the ends of the bottom 4x4, mount the dollies.

That will result in a very safe and stable platform that will be easy to move. Also, it's easy to do, not expensive, and you can get everything you need at Home Depot or Lowes. You already have the dollies.




So, I'm thinking of something like what follows:

                   BRACE
         ***********4x4*************
         ***********4x4*************
         Dollie               Dollie

As Mustang5L5 said, you have to consider the loads on the wheels as the car body is pushed. Those original casters you referenced are just asking to fold over, break, have bearings crushed, etc.


I think you have a lot of options, especially since you already have the wheel dollies. For now, my best suggestion is to use a 4x4 on top of the wheel dollies. I like two 4x4's for a couple of reasons. They get a better height for the front end, and they offer plenty of support. Using just one 4x4 gets into a number of issues. One is the flaws that are in any single piece of wood. That's why laminates have some benefits verses solid wood.

Good Luck!

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Thanks for all that info. I really appreciate it. I may expand on your ideas and adapt the 4x4's to mount to the subframe just behind the firewall and then make another setup for the rear subframe and tie them together with 4x4's to create a box frame with the dollies at each corner.

This way, the entire thing can be lifted up by 4+ guys and set on an open trailer. When I get to the body shop, it can be lifted off and has a way to roll around the shop and into the paint booth. Hopefully the shell isn't heavier than I think it is.