I just finished installing my Kenne Bell & I am now pulling 400hp 500tq @ the wheels & can't hardly even touch the gas without breaking out into a big burnout, I probably could not even beat a 3 cylinder geo metro right now I spin em so bad on take off or half open throttle, I got 3:55 posi & burn em all the way through 3rd, this is rediculous, keep in mind this is not a drag car this is my everyday driver & I do like I do like to get on it (alot), I heard about these 255r Nitto's is this it or is there anything better cause I got 50's now & from what I seen on Nitto's site there only offering 50's in my size tires (Ponys) I got 50's right now there hard compund & I really need some help here cause this thing is no joke & I can not just drive this thing the way it is right now it's just to dam dangerous ?
What tires grip ?
- Thread starter Ray@VSK
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DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
houstonstangguy
Founding Member
Actually I believe the Nitto model number that you are looking for is the 555r (opposed to 255r), however it comes in whatever size you want. I had 245/50/16's on my old ponies.
also, congrats on the blower. damn good tq down low!!!
also, congrats on the blower. damn good tq down low!!!
TrickStang37
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- Oct 17, 2004
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i wouldnt get the drag radials unless you plan on heating up the tires everytime before you get on it. I had a few sets of the Nitto DR's on my car (they really dont last that long, about 10,000 mi) and without heating them up, my generic (Daytona) street tires hold on MUCH better. Actually, these are the best tires I've used.
TrickStang37
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- Oct 17, 2004
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Ya the 555's not 555r's but there really small like wigger like tires arn't they ? I don't want my car sitting low on tires that look like they only cover my rims by an inch or two, reminds me of them people who put them big ass 20in rims on there cadillac & have it lowered I'd rather be shot, no offense (ofcourse).
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Ray - nice job on the power. A few thoughts - first, gear also acts as a torque multiplier. Most boosted applications run much less gear -- when the engine makes the torque, you don't need to multiply it with gear. So you might actually be quicker with less gear because of the traction issue. And highway mileage might go up - 3.08's maybe. Just a thought.
You're gonna need as much wheel and tire under that back of that thing as you can get. 255's minimum. And a tire that wide needs to be mounted on at least an 8" wide wheel. Seems like some folks get 275's under the rear - that needs a 9" wide wheel. Putting the wider tire on the stock narrower wheel somewhat defeats the purpose as mounting one that way keeps all the tread from being able to contact the ground.
As for grippy street radials - you need a softer compound tire. See what the autocross/road-racer guys are using. That's gonna give you the best compromise. And they're gonna wear out quickly. You can't have your cake and eat it too - if they're soft enough to grip better, they're gonna wear faster.
One last caution. Right now, you've got the tires acting as a fuse. Your engine's not putting down all it's power all the time because the tires are spinning. When you get traction, you're gonna find the rest of the weak points in your engine/tranny/rearend/suspension. Keep that in mind - once that thing starts hooking, if anything else isn't up to snuff, it will start showing up by breaking/bending other things. Is the rest of your driveline/suspension/chassis ready for the torque?
By the way, what kind of KB set up are you running?
You're gonna need as much wheel and tire under that back of that thing as you can get. 255's minimum. And a tire that wide needs to be mounted on at least an 8" wide wheel. Seems like some folks get 275's under the rear - that needs a 9" wide wheel. Putting the wider tire on the stock narrower wheel somewhat defeats the purpose as mounting one that way keeps all the tread from being able to contact the ground.
As for grippy street radials - you need a softer compound tire. See what the autocross/road-racer guys are using. That's gonna give you the best compromise. And they're gonna wear out quickly. You can't have your cake and eat it too - if they're soft enough to grip better, they're gonna wear faster.
One last caution. Right now, you've got the tires acting as a fuse. Your engine's not putting down all it's power all the time because the tires are spinning. When you get traction, you're gonna find the rest of the weak points in your engine/tranny/rearend/suspension. Keep that in mind - once that thing starts hooking, if anything else isn't up to snuff, it will start showing up by breaking/bending other things. Is the rest of your driveline/suspension/chassis ready for the torque?
By the way, what kind of KB set up are you running?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Also, you may want to jump into this thread and chat with these guys - they seem to know a thing or two about getting big rubber under the back of a fox (10" wide wheels with a 6.5" backspace).
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=519436
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=519436
If you don't do a lot of corner-carving you might want to try the BFGoodrich DR's. Normal street driving keeps them up to temperature for max traction anytime you feel the urge to get on it. Make no mistake, with that KB you can roast ANY tire including slicks- even my car will burn them at anything above a 3000 RPM launch. But you won't believe the difference between your hard compound (400 treadware maybe) and the 100 rated DR.
Michael mentioned longevity, these tires must be considered a disposable commodity just like fuel or brake pads- five to six thousand miles is about it. But they are the most important mod you can do to your car- five THOUSAND horsepower will do absolutely nothing for performance until you can get it to the ground!
P.S.- At 30 PSI the DR's aren't bad on corners either in spite of the soft sidewall- they still grip better than the street tires I have up front!
Michael mentioned longevity, these tires must be considered a disposable commodity just like fuel or brake pads- five to six thousand miles is about it. But they are the most important mod you can do to your car- five THOUSAND horsepower will do absolutely nothing for performance until you can get it to the ground!
P.S.- At 30 PSI the DR's aren't bad on corners either in spite of the soft sidewall- they still grip better than the street tires I have up front!
Kumho Supra 712's - they're pretty sticky and they are awesome in the rain. They may not be up to par with a drag-radial on a dry summer day, but if it is raining (you said this is a daily driver) all the traction benefits you'd have from a drag radial or similar tire go down the toilet. The same would apply in really cold conditions.
The Supra 712 isn't the best tire in any one catagory - but it performs very very well in all conditions which is very important. Factor in the price and its a no-brainer.
Now if you live in an area that sees snow every winter - buy another set of rims and tires! Using a tire like the Supra 712 in snow is suicidal...and "All Season" tires are not going to give you the traction you desire in any sort of weather.
If this is a summer-only car that doesn't see many miles, you may want to check out the Toyo Proxy RA1 tires. Its a "R" compound tire that has a longer lifespan than all the other tires in its category and its mild-mannered in the rain.
The Hoosier "A" compounds will only last a week before they start to cord and the "R" compounds need heat to really work. The Kumho Victoracers are great inexpensive tires, but they do not last as long as the Toyos. Their new V710 tires as fast as hell, but wear somewhere inbetween the Hoosiers and Victoracers.
Factor in; street-driven, price, rain & traction -> Either the Supra 712's or RA1's will be great.
Does anyone know if Falken makes a 255/45/17 in the Azenis line? I don't think so, but if they do - that's another alternative.
The Supra 712 isn't the best tire in any one catagory - but it performs very very well in all conditions which is very important. Factor in the price and its a no-brainer.
Now if you live in an area that sees snow every winter - buy another set of rims and tires! Using a tire like the Supra 712 in snow is suicidal...and "All Season" tires are not going to give you the traction you desire in any sort of weather.
If this is a summer-only car that doesn't see many miles, you may want to check out the Toyo Proxy RA1 tires. Its a "R" compound tire that has a longer lifespan than all the other tires in its category and its mild-mannered in the rain.
The Hoosier "A" compounds will only last a week before they start to cord and the "R" compounds need heat to really work. The Kumho Victoracers are great inexpensive tires, but they do not last as long as the Toyos. Their new V710 tires as fast as hell, but wear somewhere inbetween the Hoosiers and Victoracers.
Factor in; street-driven, price, rain & traction -> Either the Supra 712's or RA1's will be great.
Does anyone know if Falken makes a 255/45/17 in the Azenis line? I don't think so, but if they do - that's another alternative.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Do NOT buy M/T Sportsman/Sportsman PRO's.They lasted me for about 500 miles (M/T SP PRO's 10.5 X 28) on my 86' GT with 351W.Drag Radials are good but I think they would spin on my car, I only run M/T ET Street/Drags.They last ok on the street as long as they hook up and you don't do any burn-out on the road.I might try a Good Year slick later, but for me the M/T hook-up well.
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