I have a 08 with a 3.73 gear and I get a lot of wheel hop. My buddy told me I needed new stronger rear bushings is that right or what do I need to eliminate the hop. My whole dashboard looks like its going to break in half Posted via Mobile Device
Lower Control Arms should fix you right up! May as well do subframe connectors while your at it, sounds like your beating it up pretty bad.
yep yep. lower control arms will def help, and if you wanna go all out you can add relocation brackets, an upper control arm, and a panhard bar. you shouldnt have much wheel hop at all after that
Thanks a lot guys I do beat it pretty good I do Autocross and drag racing. Are there any really good brands of choice? Alyson will be putting on the eibach sportline springs. So should I do the arms and bars first or will lowering it not affect anything. Posted via Mobile Device
all i can say is that when i purchase the lower control arms im going with steeda chromoly upper/lower and maybe CHE or BMR relocation brackets. If your lowering i would do the LCA/UCA and pinion/alignment corrections all together.
Yup LCA's will do. Just make sure you get good ones. I've been through a few and most sucked so I decided to produce my own.
If youre lowering be sure to also get an adjustable panhard bar, so you can re center your rear end. also relocation brackets for the LCA's that way you dont get MORE wheel hop. as far as brands, I just bought UMI cuz I've heard really good things about them and for the money theyre a great deal. LCA's and relo brackets for 200. but BMR, Steeda, Metco, UPR, theyre all great brands.
If you're road racing or racing SCCA stuff than do not do the relocation brackets. The relocation brackets are for straight line traction and will decrease handling performance. So invest in a good set of LCAs like the BMR Billet LCAs and an adjustable UCA like Steeda's since it comes with the stepped washer. If you're running the stock shocks than when you buy new springs I'd just buy new shocks. It will probably cure the wheel hop and than you can upgrade the LCAs and UCA later.
probably won't have any wheel hop after you lower it. It changes the angle of the LCAs enough to get rid of most of it. It will make your autox handling suffer however. If you plan to drag and road course you'll need to think about some LCAs and an adj UCA. I wouldn't buy frame connectors for the S197.
I did the J&M Race LCA and UCA setup with all heim joints, J&M Adj Panhard bar and the steeda swaybar on the back. The ride is def. harsher but the burnouts are not just hop free but super controllable. Its made the rear end way more predictable on the road courses
No... Just no. The control arms being parallel to the ground is going to affect traction. Not wheel hop. The links bouncing and flexing in those big soft rubber bushings seems to be the cause of it. No rubber on my rear axle and NO wheel hop. 2nd gear burnouts are smooooooooth.
I did the BMR upper and lower arms. Eliminated 90% of the wheel hop. Also installed 4.10's at the same time. I was REALLY surprised at how well they handled the steeper gear. I did buy slightly wider tires too, but only 255, so I'm fairly certain that it's all due to the upper/lower arms. Doe the U/L CA's and you won't look back.
I did the J&M lowers purchased the upper but didnt waist my time installing. Just looked cheesey. The lowers did nothing but increase the wheel hop and the car dont hook for crap now they will be coming off and cut up may use them for a breaker bar, or throw them in the trash. I wouldn't even resell them to someone, to purchase a higher quallity LCA.
i have steeda upper and lower..the upper will probably eliminate most of it because the upper bolt on the 3ed link is about an 3/16 smaller than the holes drilled in the mount..the steeda upper gives you bushings to eliminate the gap
I just added UMI LCA's and relo brackets and it made a HUGE difference. much much much better, no wheel hop at all.
