Which Air Meter Do I Buy?

aztecgwynn

Active Member
Apr 3, 2015
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i have been doing research on net to see what mass air meter do I buy?
I also read to stay away from c&l meter, not to buy 70mm from junk yards but buy a new pro M meter. I have a c&l in garage but leaning towards pro m meter. Please let me know your experiences with your meters you have bought.
Just want everyone to know mods done to car are edelbrock performer heads , and stock ratio roller rockers! I think motor is suffocating from lack of air because motor runs really well but I know it has more potential. I also plan on adding a 65mm throttle body soon as well, but don't want to go to big because of emissions here in Maricopa Co. I just passed emissions 2 weeks ago but it took me 2 times to pass faulty EGR valve made NOX .6 particles too high to pass!
Also last week drove to N PHX and my ignition switch module I think that is what is called melted on column. Replaced that and just to let everyone know now my stock volt meter on gauge is now working awesome no more bouncing around. I can have max A/C on headlights on and fan full blast at stop light and gauge is in middle, no more dancing around.
 
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You're in the wrong forum for a question like this. Though there are some technical aspects within your topic, it is largely an opinion poll that you have started here.

It will get more traction in the general section.
 
PMAS or Pro-M is what I would recommend. There is a movement towards using larger stock meters, but the truth is they aren't as responsive. The C&L will work if you get the right sample tube dialed in, but again it suffers from slow stock electronics. The stock 94-95 Meter is 70mm, but it's not the same as an aftermarket 70mm (if it was offered) since the center section has a huge obstruction. Definitely going to need an intake too.

Kurt
 
PMAS or Pro-M is what I would recommend. There is a movement towards using larger stock meters, but the truth is they aren't as responsive. The C&L will work if you get the right sample tube dialed in, but again it suffers from slow stock electronics. The stock 94-95 Meter is 70mm, but it's not the same as an aftermarket 70mm (if it was offered) since the center section has a huge obstruction. Definitely going to need an intake too.

Kurt
Thank you for response but I do plan on buying an intake. Reason I did not buy while I was building motor was my first priority was passing emissions 2nd priority is understanding the difference in in a 93 cobra intake vs a 93 stock intake.
I am new to this hobby and want to learn as much as I can before I start having to mix and match parts and retain all laws to the state of Az where I reside, and yes when intake comes around i will by then have a 65mm throttle body installed.
 
Until you upgrade the stock intake you will not be able to tell you installed an aftermarket MAF. If you have a good intake then a MAF in the 75-80MM range would be good and leave some room to grow into if you do more mods later. 80MM MAF will feed a very good head-cam-intake combo. The Cobra intake would be my next upgrade.
 
cheaper way- get a 93-96 explorer intake- will flow as much as the Cobra and 1/3 the price. You can grab the 65MM TB as well as that will work with a small tweek to the linkage. Then, of you want to spend the money on an aftermarket MAF it may be worth it.

What cam are you running?
 
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Since you already have Eddie performer heads you will want 24# injectors once you upgrade your intake manifold. Buying the intake and a MAF calibrated for 24# together would be the best use of $$. Think long term and purchase this stuff correctly the first time instead of having to do it twice and it costing you more money in the long run. I'm still learning this myself.
 
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What he just said. You can save a lot of money if you don't buy the same parts 2-3 times. I was lucky and bought a lot of used parts the first time so it wasn't quite so painful. If you know you will stick with the car it is wise to think ahead about 5 mods or one engine in advance. :)
 
Havent heard great things about c&l. I had one in my car and it never ran right. Ended up using the cobra housing with a stock sensor and it ran a lot better.

Now I'm using pro-m for 24#s. Works great! Summit Racing brand is pro-m for a little less money.
 
Lots of solid advice there. If you consider the Explorer intake for cost reasons, check back on here before you buy. There are two different intakes for a Foxbody vs and SN. Have to make sure you get the right year.

Kurt
 
Your main concern seems to be emissions so........
Any mods you do need to be c.a.r.b. legal. An explorer intake is a huge step forward from the stock piece, being an oem part it will pass c.a.r.b.. grab the tb with it as stated above, why buy a more expensive piece when it's already attached to the intake.
The budget minded will get a maf from a 94-95.... but I do prefer the idea of buy once, so get a 24# injector/ maf combo.
Right now the intake is so restrictive that a maf/injector combo is pointless. Find the intake first then do the maf.

If you consider aftermarket intakes/mafs or parts in general we have some members on here that have seen and done it all, so feel free to post your combo ideas and we will help you select the right parts.... take it from someone who has bought everything at least twice.;)
 
To add on the intake bit, a Cobra intake, a GT40 intake, and an Explorer intake are all basically the same thing. Go for whichever one you like the appearance of, or you can find a good deal on. The Explorer intakes can be a bargain if you find a good deal on ebay, or you find one at a pick in pull. However, recently I have seen them go for as much as $200 + shipping on ebay, and sometimes you can score a used Cobra for the same price. So it's hit or miss. I just recommend staying away from the Chinese Knock offs. They are hard to install (got to drill holes out and crap) and the ports tend not to line up right. Better used quality than new crap.

Kurt
 
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