Which subframe connectors?

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i have the Steeda set (got it from LRS). dont remember the price, but it included Torque box plates and its a really nice set. If your going to put in subframe connectors, theres no reason to not put in torque box reinforcement places as well
 
i have the Steeda set (got it from LRS). dont remember the price, but it included Torque box plates and its a really nice set. If your going to put in subframe connectors, theres no reason to not put in torque box reinforcement places as well

Cool, i'll get the plates also then.. What is LSR? Do you mean late model restoration? Which are better, bolt on or weld?

EDIT: I also found this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ximum-Motorsports-Chassis-Brace-Package-Black that comes with a strut tower brace and a lower chassis brace...
 
I've been doing research lately on these too...

From what I've read bolt-on's aren't worth it. The mounting holes eventually stretch out with the flexing and they pretty much become useless.

I put a weld-on set onto my SHO and they were great. No reason not to do the weld-on route.
 
DO NOT drill holes in your car to mount sub frame connectors. Weld them in and forget about it. Drilling holes will only eventually lead to headaches.

That said, I have Maximum Motorsports standard length SFCs with the seat-bolt cross bars. Those things are rock solid and really well made... Just like you'd expect from MM. Welded in, my car is so stiff now, I can jack the car up and put a jack stand on just one side, and the car won't even twist 1/2 inch.
 
Maximum Motorsports' subframe connectors are the best way to go, they're some of the best on the market. Welding them is your best bet, too. Bolting your connectors on is okay, but welding makes them stronger and more reliable.
 
I've installed three sets of MM full lengths. I love them, very very very nice pieces and the best you can get IMO without fabrication. The next best thing is to make through the floor subframes but thats a PITA.
 
as long as its a weld in full length with torque box plates theres not much difference. i bought the steeda set off AM and i got no complaints. you could compare coatings and wall thickness but im betting its fairly standard and id be impressed if you bent a pair anyway.
 
We've all seen cheap off-brand control arms twist apart and fail, even under mild cars. In the same way, I wouldn't trust a cheap off-brand SFC to do it's job. Personally, I would never skimp on structural stuff (chassis, suspension, brakes). If they fail, you can potentially cause even more damage.

Why is it when you say stuff like that people listen but when i do i get criticized for it, remember the summit control arm thing, everyone and their mother told me "no you;re wrong, they're fine" then a week later we heard of about 10 people whos arms snapped under mild power