Why doesn't the key crank the engine?

[Booksix]

Went to the grocery store... got back out, turned key..... nothing. No click, no crank, nothing... Checked the adjustment of the clutch switch... all good... Push started and drove home.

I then checked the clutch switch with my DVM. 0 ohms when clutch in. Next, checked the solenoid. With my girlfriend reading the DVM while I turned the key she found 13-20 volts (is that right?) and 0 when I released the key.

Next, I jumped the solenoid, starter turns over great (btw, it's a high torque mini so it has the reversed wiring deal at the solenoid). So, with everything seemingly fine, what could be wrong? What am I missing?

 

[HISSIN50]

You said:
"Next, checked the solenoid. With my girlfriend reading the DVM while I turned the key she found 13-20 volts (is that right?) and 0 when I released the key."

Which terminal on the solenoid was being tested? It sounds like it was the trigger on the fender-mount solenoid.

If so, it sounds like your fender-mount solenoid isn't closing.

 

[Booksix]

No, i had the dvm connected from the starter side of the solenoid to the battery negative...

 

[jrichker]

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.