The picture in the first post is of a MacPherson strut type IFS. There is no upper control arm, the strut locates the upper point of the suspension. Go back and look, it says AJE on the stabilizer bar.
Has anyone checked out AJE's new front end?
- Thread starter okibono
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The picture in the first post is of a MacPherson strut type IFS. There is no upper control arm, the strut locates the upper point of the suspension. Go back and look, it says AJE on the stabilizer bar.
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I guess it comes down to what your intentions are.
A hardcore, turning corner, road course car may not.
A hardcore, strip/street car however...
Any time you want to put a MacPherson strut IFS, front engine car aganist a C-5 Vette....just let me know. I'll be glad to show you the tail lights disappearing down the road.
mikethedike
like i said read the entire thread before you start talking crap. this is a true unequal length control arm setup with tubular upper and lower control arms, it's toward the end of the thread so you would have seen it had you read the entire thread. this thread was totally dead until freddyfender asked about the CPP setup today, the last post before that was 3-21-07. and i replied to him about the CPP steup not the AJE setup, if you can't add positive tech to the discussion then go hang out on the F-body forums and the vette forums, they think just like you anyway.
He's not comparing what it can do to a Vette, or what else it can beat up. He didn't start the thread saying " this is the greatest **** EVER." I think it was "Has anyone checked out the new AJE front end ?" Which asks simply if you have seen it. If you wanted all out, you can always spend a ton of dough for a custom setup. But if your read his post, PSCA is allowing it for the early Fords. Which is why he wants it. He needs more room. And they don't allow MII. I don't anywhere in anyone post did is say this would out handle a vette. That's just retarded to compare that kinda performance to 60's technology.
First post to thread: 4:19 p.m. PDT. First Chevy-rules-Stangs-suck post: 5:03. Now that didn't take long.
And you know these other guys were cornering on public roads at 10/10ths how? What I'm saying is that an impromptu dice on public roads between drivers of unknown skills, intent, and risk aversion is not a good test of the capabilities of any particular suspension system. Bench racing is fun, but wouldn't it make more sense to ask how do the RRS systems or other strut systems perform in competition, in comparison to a Global West or TCP system? Does anyone have that kind of knowledge?
Edit: Poking around the http://www.classicperform.com website I found that CPP's "Mini Subframe" kit is available for the '62-'67 Nova. Here are some Nova install stories:
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/CPP_Subframe_Install/CPP_Subframe_Install.htm
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/ChevyIISubFrame/ChevyIISubFrameVer3.htm
Although CPP (curiously) does not include this Nova kit, or aMustang kit, anywhere in its on-line retail pages, this vendor, National Nostalgic Nova http://www.nnnova.com/ , has the kit on its web site, in three versions.
Standard, $484 -- http://nnnova.com/product_info.php?products_id=2512 --
Extreme, $774 -- http://nnnova.com/product_info.php?products_id=2514 --
and Deluxe, $1014 -- http://nnnova.com/product_info.php?products_id=2513 --
As you can see from these pix, the '62-'67 Nova front suspension is substantially identical to the classic Mustang.
These kit prices compare very favorably to similar products from Global West, TCP, Ron Morris, etc., let alone the Heidt's and Rod & Custom Mustang II stuff and the RRS Mac strut stuff.
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reenmachine
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.
99% of people just need a system that handles well in "spirited" driving and emergency situations without riding like an oxcart. This can be achieved wonderfully with modified stock suspension, a good MII setup, MacPherson struts done right, and myriad other variations on the theme. Choose a system that suits as many of your needs and tastes as possible while remaining within your budget and go drive. You'll be out enjoying your car while everyone else is at home on their computer debating heim joints and bushing durometers.
I just turned 35 a few days ago but I swear some of you people make me feel like a cranky old man sometimes.
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.
99% of people just need a system that handles well in "spirited" driving and emergency situations without riding like an oxcart. This can be achieved wonderfully with modified stock suspension, a good MII setup, MacPherson struts done right, and myriad other variations on the theme. Choose a system that suits as many of your needs and tastes as possible while remaining within your budget and go drive. You'll be out enjoying your car while everyone else is at home on their computer debating heim joints and bushing durometers.
I just turned 35 a few days ago but I swear some of you people make me feel like a cranky old man sometimes.
i've got my 69 with basically stock rebuilt suspension, with roller perches, 1" front sway bar, 750lb coils up front and 5 leaf mid eye rear springs, kyb gas adjust fronts and kyb GR-2 rears at the alignment shop as we speak, i'll be driving it tonight with any luck
. for now this system will work just fine for me, it's a little stiff but it's all brand new too, after a couple hundred miles it should start to loosen up a bit though. eventually i would like to something else with the front and rear suspension but i'll be driving the car until then750's up front, and gas adjusts up front ?!?!?! THere will be no loosing up. Your suspension = fillings falling out !! 
750's up front, and gas adjusts up front ?!?!?! THere will be no loosing up. Your suspension = fillings falling out !!
actually it's nowhere near as bad you'd think, the 750's are actually the only part of the entire suspension that are not new, they have been in the car since 1989 and they ride fine, then again i have a 351w, with power steering, ac and an extremely heavy FMX trans. the rear ride is a little tough right now though.
i'll drive it like this for a while and see how it does, i may end up switching to GR-2's up front because the gas adjusts are a bit stiff, but overall i'm not at all unhappy with the ride, especially up front.
yeah, i'd always used regular old Monroe Gas matics up front with the 750's until now, so i'll drive it for a while and see how it goes but so far it doesn't seem too bad, just a little firmer than it was before.
edit: also, i think the roller perches may be helping to cancel out some of the harshness of the gas adjusts.
Ah ok. I had a 289 with stock springs and gas adjust and hated it. But some people couldn't drive my car without a sway bar. Plus I just don't think my fillings were done that great to begin with.
CPP upgrades
I sent CPP an email. Danny at CPP replied right away to me. He stated that they have not put up a link on their website yet for the mustang kit.
He is going to mail me literature on the set up and cost structure.
The one thing that no one has mentioned or commented on is the removal of the strut rods.
What are the pro's and cons of doing this? Both sides please as i am not mechanically knowledgeable.
To me this kit looks like a good way to beef up the suspension with solid parts. along with some roller perches from Opentracker and some good shocks and springs i think my car would handle nice.
feedback please! and Thanks
I sent CPP an email. Danny at CPP replied right away to me. He stated that they have not put up a link on their website yet for the mustang kit.
He is going to mail me literature on the set up and cost structure.
The one thing that no one has mentioned or commented on is the removal of the strut rods.
What are the pro's and cons of doing this? Both sides please as i am not mechanically knowledgeable.
To me this kit looks like a good way to beef up the suspension with solid parts. along with some roller perches from Opentracker and some good shocks and springs i think my car would handle nice.
feedback please! and Thanks
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.
99% of people just need a system that handles well in "spirited" driving and emergency situations without riding like an oxcart. This can be achieved wonderfully with modified stock suspension, a good MII setup, MacPherson struts done right, and myriad other variations on the theme. Choose a system that suits as many of your needs and tastes as possible while remaining within your budget and go drive. You'll be out enjoying your car while everyone else is at home on their computer debating heim joints and bushing durometers.
I just turned 35 a few days ago but I swear some of you people make me feel like a cranky old man sometimes.
You are correct about 99% of the people. I'm the other 1% who want a car that does not drive like a damn 3 wheel atv, which BTW most MacPherson strut cars do a very good job of imitating.
Do this....go to your local Saturn dealer and drive one then go directly to your Honda dealer and drive an Accord. Or better yet....go drive a BMW 330I and then go drive a Honda S2000 and tell me which one DRIVES better. Both are front engine rear wheel drive with about 50-50 weight distribution. The major difference is the front suspension Honda....unequal length upper/lower arms. BMW...MacPherson strut.
YOU decide....I already have.
reenmachine
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
That's a poor experiment. There are so many other variables that you can't draw the conclusion you're drawing. It's just as valid to say one of them DRIVES better because it's a certain color.
Anyway, I'm not taking the bait. I wouldn't argue religion with a fundamentalist and I'm not going to enter into the strut debate with you.
Ah ok. I had a 289 with stock springs and gas adjust and hated it. But some people couldn't drive my car without a sway bar. Plus I just don't think my fillings were done that great to begin with.
yeah, i used to have mine setup with no sway bar as well, but then i decided it i wanted to go around corners too, either way is fun though. i can tell you that the stock seats, even highbacks like i have, are not very comfortable and far worse than the ride. i drove it around for about an hour tonight and my back is killing me from the lack of lumbar support. i had a set of 86 gt buckets in the car before i started the resto and they were 10 times more comfortable.
the CPP setup should make the car handle and ride better but as yet no one has installed one of their systems that i know of so it's hard to say for certain. i definitely want to try one out though.
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