Quality Suspension set up for $500?

C

Corbic

New Member
Jul 25, 2007
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#1
Howdy.

I have a 1996 'Stang I picked up last month for cheap. 4.6, manual, and blown shocks.

Right now the car bounces, have massive under steer, numb steering and really handles like poo. Frankly I think a Crown Vic will run this car down.

So I'm looking for an initial investment of $500, and then latter another 500-700 in the suspension department. I'm hoping to eliminate a lot of the under-steer and get this thing on par with your typical Japanese stock sports car (350z, 240sx, 300zx). Hell, some BMW quality action would be great.

Also, what is the most cost effective way (Besides upgraded pads) to get some more responsive break force. The peddle has a lot of travel, and the car really doesn't feel "trust worthy".

Thanks.
 

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#2
Not gonna happen. You need:

Springs: $200
Shocks/struts: $400
CC plates: $150

Total: about $750 plus tax. And those are CHEAP parts. If you want quality, you'll spend closer to a grand. Keep in mind the prices above are without install. Labor will be another $200-300 dollars if you can't do the install yourself.
 
#5
He doesn't necessarily need to lower the car right off the bat. Thus he can use that $500 to start off with some nice shocks and struts to fix his current ride problem, and then lower it with some springs and CC plates in the future. Won't handle like a Beamer with just this upgrade, but should greatly improve ride quality if your current setup is blown. Would be good to get it all done at the same time, but might have to go piece by piece if your are low on cash.

You can get a set of Bilsteins on eBay for $530 shipped - LINK

Check out Maximummotorsports.com for other suspension upgrades for your car.

Installs pretty straightforward if you have done auto related work in the past.
 
#6
the98stang said:
Not gonna happen. You need:

Springs: $200
Shocks/struts: $400
CC plates: $150

Total: about $750 plus tax. And those are CHEAP parts. If you want quality, you'll spend closer to a grand. Keep in mind the prices above are without install. Labor will be another $200-300 dollars if you can't do the install yourself.
Click to expand...

:stupid: agreed and as for the brake upgrade Mach1/Bullit 13"brake setup is the way to go
 
#8
Start with a good brand of inner and outer tie rods. Next get yourself a pair of 2003 Mach 1 struts. They are made by Tokicko and you can order them right at the Ford dealer. I love the way my Cobra handles now with the updated Mach 1 struts. I used 00 Cobra R outer tie rods, and Moogs replacement inners.

I would buy a solid steering shaft too, but that is most of your budge right there. Flaming river is about 279-299. These make the car handle way better and is probably your best suspension mod.

Other items to consider are ball joints, bushings, springs, CC plates, bump steer kit, or off set rack bushings.
 
#11
I was just looking at changing mine too and found KYB strut/shock/quad package for $340 and I want to add the Ford Racing B springs for another $140 at 50resto.com
 
#12
I'm more than capable of doing my own work here. I also currently own a 240sx, previously owned a RX-7, Talon TSi and a few Volkswagens.

Now the MACH 1's are made by Tokkico, so are they HPs or anything?

I'm told on other forms front-weight reduction and rear lower control arms make a huge difference as well. Besides Carbon fiber hoods, what else can be done about the front weight? How much does that knock off?

I already have the trunk and most of the interior gutted. I still have to remove the driver + passenger SD material, back seats and I'm going to lay some fresh black carpet in the car, minus the foam. I'm leaving the center console out, giving it a more "classic" feel with out the "division" between driver and passenger and the arm rest.
 
#13
To lose some front weight: tubular K-member, A-arms, CF hood, removal of crash bumper (not great idea lol), coilovers, etc... All of these items are pretty expensive $$$...

Why are you gutting your car anyway??? Weight reduction is a BAD way to make these cars faster when all you gotta do is slap on some sort of FI (boost = best, spray = ok). A fast AND comfortable car is way more fun than a gutted stock car. Also, if you're going to drag race it you're going to have to hae a seat delete kit in the back, and if the track is strict (per NHRA rules) you must have a METAL bulkhead between rear seat and trunk.
 
#14
I do not intend to drag race, and I do intend to make a metal bulkhead.

As far as weight reduction, takes all kinds. This is a second car, the truck I could careless. Its been gutted, SD removed, sanded, primed and sprayed with several coats of truck bed linear.

Gutting = Free
FI = $3,000+

I want the car to handle better, I'm no going to get that with another 100 -> 200hp.
Also, I'd sooner swap in a late model 4.6 PI with 260hp over my 215hp '96 engine, much cheaper, and a better starting place, that or go with DOHC for $3,500 or so.

K-Frame requires pulling the whole engine correct? How do coil overs reduce weight, from what I can tell Mustangs just use those Coil-Over sleeve deals.. which I still haven't quite figured out yet.
 
#18
So you guys don't think that the $425 handling package will help him out that much? I'm getting outhandled by stock Honda prelude Si's and Acura RSX's. Maybe I need a driver mod but I do want to get rid of the understeer. My front tires wear faster than the rears! :lol:
 
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