Updated TCP G-Bar triangulated 4-link...

#41
fastcoupe68 said:
Can you be more specific about the goals of the project and any limitations or guidelines you need to adhere to?

Horsepower?427 cid 650 hp on motor, it will also have a nitrous system
Drivetrain? 5 spd
Tires type/size? street 275/60 BFG drag radial, track 28x10.5 slick
Target 1/4 ET? 9.50
Target 60 ft times? The best possible times
Cutting, welding OK? absolutley
Is appearance important? yes
Will the front suspension be set up to drive well on the street or made to better transfer weight for drag racing? the car has a rod and custom front suspension
with adjustable coil overs
Do you want a street car that you can safely run at the track? Or a drag car you can safely drive on the street? Sounds silly but there really is a very significant difference.
a street car that you can safely run at the track
Click to expand...



650hp, 9 second street car? parallel 4 link
 

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#43
To use the g-Bar system safely in this application, you would need to tie the suspension cradle directly to the roll cage. I'm not worried about you hurting the suspension system, but my concern is the area of sheetmetal (upper shock and pinion mounts) that the cradle attaches. As an example, Fox Mustangs used in drag racing or even road racing commonly have to reinforce the upper arm chassis mounts to prevent tearing the sheet metal. And this is on a vehicle that was designed to carry heavier loads in that area. Our cradle increases strength in this area by adding a partially boxed structural plate where the tubing meets to spread load to a much greater area. Better? Yes, but welding/bracing the cradle against the roll cage is a much better way to do it. You'll still gain the instant center adjustment you don't get with leafsprings, and the additional welding to tie-in the cradle shouldn't complicate the installation too much.

5804-M10_AT.jpg
 

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#47
fastcoupe68 said:
If you have been reading my post the info I wanted was on the TCP setup and nothing else. Never did I ask which was better
Click to expand...



hey dude, you said you don't need a 4 link to go 9's and i just replied to that. i'm not knocking the TCP setup at all, i plan on running one in my 69 cougar but it won't be a 9 second street car either. you don't want my advice don't take it but you don't have to be a jerk about it either.

BTW, the TCP setup is a 4 link system. it's not a parallel 4 link, it's a triangulated 4 link but it's still a 4 link.
 
#50
Sarcasm? Hmmm, let me see here never did I ask once, about a parallel 4 link or any other setup. Here you are offering advice on something I asked nothing about and I tried to explain this, but you continue to offer advice even when its not asked for over and over. Maybe some one who is not schooled in the benefits of a 4 link might have learned something but this is not what the thread was about. So if anyone is being a jerk around here it certainly wasnt me
 
#51
fastcoupe68 said:
Sarcasm? Hmmm, let me see here never did I ask once, about a parallel 4 link or any other setup. Here you are offering advice on something I asked nothing about and I tried to explain this, but you continue to offer advice even when its not asked for over and over. Maybe some one who is not schooled in the benefits of a 4 link might have learned something but this is not what the thread was about. So if anyone is being a jerk around here it certainly wasnt me
Click to expand...


ok screw you a**hole. if you're going to like that when someone is trying to help you shouldn't even be here, this board is all about people offering opinions and options if you don't want them don't take them but don't be D-I-C-K about if you don't like it. go somwhere else if you wanna be like that.
 
#52
Aww, thanks for your opinion once again, but not once did I ask for your opinion. If you were trying to help you should have commented on the tcp setup, which I was asking about.
And once again you prove that you just cant shut up!
 
#53
fastcoupe68 said:
Aww, thanks for your opinion once again, but not once did I ask for your opinion. If you were trying to help you should have commented on the tcp setup, which I was asking about.
And once again you prove that you just cant shut up!
Click to expand...


go back and re-read my posts about the G-bar, i was trying to help and did post about the g-bar, or maybe do a search and see how many threads i've mentioned the G-bar in or any of the other suspensions available for our cars, front and rear. i'm usually one of the first people to post about a new suspension option for our cars and always participate in the discussions about suspensions, it's my favorite subject. i'm sorry you didn't like my suggestions but they were only suggestions, i could have suggested a 3 link or a 4 bar or an air suspension but i didn't i suggested what would work best for the car were asking about. again, i'm not trying to tell you not to use the G-Bar, i just don't think it's the best option for your car, will it work? hell yeah it will work and i'll be using it in my car. also note that Psydwaze suggested a parallel 4 link as well and he works for TCP and is the TCP expert i was referring to.

so do whatever you want, i won't post another response to any question you ever ask ever again nor will continue with this argument, not sure it how it even turned into an argument really, but whatever it's not productive to the thread so i'm done.


BTW, you did ask for an opinion on whether or not this would work for your car, didn't you?

"Updated TCP G-Bar triangulated 4-link. Opinions on using this setup in a drag vehicle, Pros and cons??? Anyone feel free to chime in on this"
 
#54
Cant we all just get along, LOL
I hope you will respond to other questions that I might pose
I respect eveyones opinion, you never know what you might learn
And settle down with the name calling, not cool
 
#56
fastcoupe68 said:
Cant we all just get along, LOL
I hope you will respond to other questions that I might pose
I respect eveyones opinion, you never know what you might learn
And settle down with the name calling, not cool
Click to expand...


no more name calling but try to understand that when you ask for opinions you'll get them, like them or not, you'll get opinions. no hard feelings and i aopologize for my name calling won't happen again but please try not to argue with someone giving an opinion that you asked for anymore and we'll get along fine.:nice:
 
#57
The progress TCP have made since the handover has been impressive, it's good to see it continuing.

I know this has turned into a "poke Lino for info" thread, but I have to ask - Is the original rear coilover system still worth as much in comparison to the new system(s)? In terms of performance per dollar?
 
#58
Route666 said:
Is the original rear coilover system still worth as much in comparison to the new system(s)? In terms of performance per dollar?
Click to expand...

The addition of the g-Bar system and it's many configurations has allowed us to narrow the recommended performance envelope of the pushrod coil-over suspension to predominately track handling use, for which is was originally designed. The pushrod coil-over still offers the best housing control and handling performance, but the g-Bar system's scalability and additional suspension travel make it a much better choice for a vehicle seeing regular street use.

Just to put the "performance per dollar" scope into perspective...

The pushrod system is priced at $4989 and includes everything pictured (with double-adjustable shocks), except the bolt-on driveshaft loop.

RPSS-FD_ID.jpg
PKG-SFC-01_ID.jpg


The g-Bar system starts at $1739 for whats in the picture (single-adjustable shocks). You use your existing leafspring housing, and subframe connectors are not included.

5800-M10_AT.jpg



A fully optioned g-Bar system with billet pivot-ball arms, FAB9 housing, double-adjustable shocks, housing mounted anti-roll bar, and subframe connectors comes in at about $4500.

5813-M10_84M10-701_ID.jpg
PKG-SFC-01_ID.jpg
 

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