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A "306" is nothing more than a 302 with an overbore. The stroke is not changed at all. There is essentially no performance difference between an equally prepared stock motor, and one with a .030 overbore.



Right, because your average hobbiest has a way better understanding of the fundementals of engine design and optimization than the engineers at Trick Flow, Edelbrock, etc do. It's so much more fun to create your own combo with random parts that aren't designed to work together, so then you get the fun of trying to tune all the quirks out of your "real machine."

OP: two reasonable ways to go to make your goals:

1) HCI swap with a stroker kit (either 331 or 347). Not sure you'll get there without increasing displacement, but others might disagree. I would recommend buying a kit where all the components were designed to work together, but you can prove your mechanical prowess by cobbling together your own creation if you choose.
2) Forced induction on your stock build: either SC or turbo. I dug into this, and for simplicity, I was headed toward a KB for my 95 instead of a turbo. No slam at all on turbo, other than it seems to be a lot more difficult to get set up and running properly for a dummy like me.

So, what you're saying is. You unessarily are trying to attack my views and are negatively posting crap? Get over yourself, and maybe I'll care what you say.

That's fine if you want to be the average hobbiest, but I don't. So, sorry I think the trickflow top end kit, the holley top end kit, and the edelbrock top end kit are all kind of lame, typical, boring, gay. I rather have random 'mismatched' as you say parts with a tune (which you would need anyways) to make the same horsepower, if not more. Those mismatched parts you're referring to aren't going to be a set of gt40 heads and some box intake with a b cam for sound or whatever people get the silly b-cam for.

As far as the stroking, yes I knew about the bore change, no I didn't know the same piston fit in a larger bore. Then again, I've not stroked my car or dealt with any form of stroking, I was simply trying to provide the best information to my knowledge as no one else had posted any information. If you have corrections next time, do it in a civil manner or you'll get an uncivil response dick.

fair enough?
 
Gotcha Jordan. So sorry for challenging your expert opinion, and hurting your wittle feewings.

OP,feel free to select your parts with the Summit catalog and a dartboard, cuz then, you know, Jordan won't think you're boring, lame, and gay. I know that's of primary importance to me when I'm planning my mods.
 
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A stroker kit is a crank with a longer stroke, different rods, and pistons, rings, bearings, etc. This requires different pistons because of the added stroke length. The wrist pin location is moved to compensate. Your engine builder will tell you what pistons you need based on the cylinder condition. Some engines need bored .030", .040", or .060" over depending on these conditions. Along with the stroker kit there are clearance issues that need to be addressed in the block. The rods come into contact with the lower edge of the cylinders so clearance needs to be made. There are other things to consider when deciding on a stroker kit. If you are going to add a power adder you probably should go forged. But as stated, the stock block doesn't do well with 500+ HP, unless you add a main support. But even then I wouldn't go much past 500 unless you can find a Mexican 302 block or a Sportsman block.

As for buying a ready made kit, I prefer to buy my components separately as well. Mostly because I could never save up enough money to buy a whole kit. I usually buy used parts, fix them up, and make them work. I know a guy that bought an Edelbrock top end kit. It wasn't as fast as my 90 with stiock ported E7's that I ported and shaved myself. I sourced a GT40 tubular intake and slapped in an F303 cam, roller rockers, etc. The car ran way better than I expected, so I was happy. And putting it all together myself made me feel so much better about the end result. Just my opinion. I'm not knocking buying a top end kit. Just I think I can do just as well putting my own together. But, for what it's worth, if AFR offered a top end kit I would probably buy it. Afr 185's, F303, GT40 upper. That's my plan.
 
If AFR made a top end kit I think it would be engineered to the max levels of the stock block. lolololol.

I'm not knocking top end kits that are made to work together, I just think it's more fun, more interesting, and more work in a good way to do it yourself. It just seems soooo, I don't know, less credible when engineers did all the thinking for you?
I personally wouldn't do it. As I could drop the money right now and get the TF kit. But where's the build with that?


and I'm glad you understand now Husky, the key is not to look gay or boring or lame in solely my beautiful hazel eyes. :)
 
Oh and the Mexican block made me giggle, it gave me funny images in my minds eye. I also kinda roll my eyes when people mention the 500 hp block limitations. How many people who daily drive a 20 yr old car have 500 horsespower worth of money
 
Oh and the Mexican block made me giggle, it gave me funny images in my minds eye. I also kinda roll my eyes when people mention the 500 hp block limitations. How many people who daily drive a 20 yr old car have 500 horsespower worth of money

I've heard the mexican blocks are stronger, but I never looked into it about any actual facts.

No idea, I currently could not build a 500 horsepower mustang.
 
Ea
I've heard the mexican blocks are stronger, but I never looked into it about any actual facts.

No idea, I currently could not build a 500 horsepower mustang.
wasnt referring to you then but more so the avg joe which you may or may not be. I was thinking more about the op since in a previous post he enquiries about the $1500 on3 turbo and since he was looking at that and I believe he is daily driving his stang that he like many wouldn't have the 10k to build a 500+ motor. I could be way off base, maybe he has a machine shop on his back padio
 
Yea I was looking at an on3 turbo kit because its the cheapest I could find lol then I found used jenny bell superchargers online and they look mor direct bolt on type...I only wand about 390 400 horses out of my car because it will be a daily driver I'm leani g to an H/C/I swap now but I might try to find them used and piece something together as I have the money
 
Right now thou I have to take care of some thi gs like why is my car running hot? I looked in the rad and it looks nasty abd also kind of looks like water... so would draining the rad and filling with antifreeze hurt? And she's kinda running like crap and stalls a lot when cold would a tune up help this? And I have to find out where this leak is coming from it almost seems like its only leaking while its running is that possible? I ask that becausr it doesn't leave any puddles or anything where I'm parked.
 
Definitely do a full tuneup if you havent. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter and pcv valve. I went with taylor wires because the ford ones fit like crap. Coolant flush definitely wont hurt anything, gets all that crap out of there

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Also how much of a drop do you think this car has I know its lowered but how much? Any guesses?
 

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I don't want some junked explorer engine though I would feel more comfortable rebuilding for 2k and starting from there possibly save enough to get the h/c/I done while its apart. What kind of power would I put out with a cobra manifold and gt40 heads?