I Am Now A Fox Body Owner, Also Have Some Questions

Thanks I will go look for that thread. I was already thinking about replacing the O2 sensors just because I don't know when the last time they were replaced at. Could bad O2 sensors be causing the idle problem I am getting on start ups when it's been sitting over night or for many hours? I also noticed sometimes at idle at stop lights the idle drops down to about 600RPM. I tap the gas and it comes back up a little and stays but will go back down. As much as I want to start spending money on go fast parts I want to make sure the car is running properly before doing anything else. I also noticed that today when I got on the gas pretty good it felt like it wanted to stumble a little.

So far I will be ordering new plugs and wires, fuel filter, O2 sensors, clean the k&n filter, clean IAC, TB, do you guys recommend fuel injector cleaning that you dump in the tank? I also have one of those drip lines that can be attached to a vacuum line, but afraid to use it on an older car because I've seen it cause more problems. Am I missing anything else?
base idle is factory set a little above 600 rpm. i have done the cleaner thru the vacuum system with no ill effects, never know though.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I'd put money on the O2 codes are there because you have a vacuum leak. Look around your engine bay and see if any of the hoses have cracks in them (you might have to give them a squeeze to see). If so replace the offending hoses to see if that clears up your idle issues. Car looks clean!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I'd put money on the O2 codes are there because you have a vacuum leak. Look around your engine bay and see if any of the hoses have cracks in them (you might have to give them a squeeze to see). If so replace the offending hoses to see if that clears up your idle issues. Car looks clean!

Hell, for that matter, vacuum hoses are cheep and as old as those are i'd go ahead and change them
 
As far as I know, O2 sensors are not used on cold start-up. Until the engine warms up, the computer runs in a "closed loop" mode. Once at operating temp, it switches to open loop and reads the 02 sensors to achieve the magic 14.7 AFR that narrow band sensors are used for. So no, you cold idle issue shouldn't be O2 sensor related.

Yeah, I've done a lot of reading on mega squirt. I could be wrong, and some please correct me if I am.
You're right for the most part except closed loop is when the car is up to operating temp and using the O2s and open loop is when it's cold. Not the other way around
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I will check for vacuum leaks tomorrow. I was able to clean the TB and IAC today. TB wasn't all that dirty but the IAC was filthy. I may have to buy a new one because I couldn't get it clean enough to my liking. I wasn't able to remove the two screws to take it apart. The two bolts that hold it to the TB I could get out. Looks like someone tried to take out the screws before and rounded the head off.
 
I could not find any vacuum leaks. I haven't really driven the car since Thursday. I did drive it about 50 miles today and the CEL had came on about 4 times and went off so tomorrow I will have to see what that is about and I will post back.
 
Agreed with Mike about seeing what new codes appear after clearing them from the initial check of them.

Also agree about not getting tunnel vision on the O2's themselves. While their condition is unknown, an issue with a vac leak (as noted),the MAF, etc, are possible. It kinda feels like a vac leak issue.......

Based on what you've seen, you might (if you haven't already) want to check the MAF wires. Dirty ones look hairy. Literally. And if you are too generous with the air-filter oiling, you might have to clean the wires again. I can't remember how fox MAF's are, but you might need tamper-proof torx bits to remove the MAF sensor from the housing. Parts stores sell the TP-torx bits.

And FWIW, open loop operation is modified by closed loop data. Bad CL data or running on the edge of an extreme can and does affect cold performance. Remember, it only takes 30-120 seconds to get into CL (the O2's need to see about 600*F to light off and send reliable feedback. Hego's heat up quickly).