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True 'dat @Davedacarpainter. I even looked at some Speedmaster ITB 351W intake setups a few weeks ago. I always thought an 85 GT was bad ass when you popped the hood and the dual cold air giant air cleaner was staring you in the face. But 8 ITB"s? Or in @CarMichael Angelo 's case, 6 ITB in a glass box. Laymen will shrug and walk to the next shiny Honda. But MEN, car guys and gals, will shat their pants and yell WTF? Mad MIke will have to carry wet wipes with him to Carz N Coffee.
 
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Well, for the first time in 2018, the wheels are on the ground. I've turned the throttle screws back another half turn, I'm going upstairs to get the laptop. I'll start TS, start a DL, and turn the key. No way in hell it'll idle cold now, I'll have to try and mess with the VE tables live.
 
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It runs.
It's obnoxiously loud.
That single straight through SS dynomax is not long for this Earth.

I could not put my foot in it, It goes stupidly lean when I try that. But I have an extensive datalog.

Steve Good sir, when you get a moment...
 

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It runs.
It's obnoxiously loud.
That single straight through SS dynomax is not long for this Earth.

I could not put my foot in it, It goes stupidly lean when I try that. But I have an extensive datalog.

Steve Good sir, when you get a moment...
Correction,...it goes stupidly rich, then literally dies, then just as quickly comes back.

It's all kinds of fcked up.
 
Garage and car are clean...been wallowing in metal shavings and dirt far too long.

image.jpeg

Spoke with Steve. I could not tell him which tune is currently in the car, so I may be starting from scratch. I guess I'll know soon enough.
In the mean time enjoy my orange crush.
 
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Steve road in the passenger seat today, and dialed in the tune with me tonight.

Only he wasn't in Birmingham.

Thanks to a smart phone with the ability to generate its own wifi hotspot, we were able to setup a remote tune via laptop. In other words, I drove, while a ghost operated my computer live.

The car is 90% tuned. It idles at 750 in drive like a stocker. The cam behaves no different than a stock cam either. I'm seriously wondering if i should've upgraded that thing when I had the car apart.
C'est la vie,...that sht ain't changing this year, I'll tell you that.

I will say be warned if you choose this path, it will eat up your data plan. The 45 minute session consumed over 500 mb.
It was way worth it. It Allowed Steve a " one and done", and for the cheapie little doodads that I've given him in anticipation of this day, anything I can do to lessen his time online the better.

He asked me how it feels, and I told him it felt great. ( He was asking for a seat of the pants guesstimate on power)..
I'll tell you what it don't feel like,......it don't feel like the turbo motor. I'm gonna say if the turbo motor made 400 WHP, this is closer to half that. 225-250 WHP I'm guessing.

But that's all good,...cause when I open the hood I got this:
IMAG0011_zpsp6vrcyov.jpg

And as cool as the turbo was, somebody out there could've cloned it. And I'm all about the one-off.
This just makes it that much more harder to do.

The Muffler will guarantee that the neighbors will hate me, the wife will never ride in it, and you'll hear me coming a mile away.
All the things I hate when somebody is considering making their noisy assed car even noisier. Replacing That will be the very next thing I do.

Now I gotta start looking at the cruise in schedule ....I've gotta get back into summer.
 
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I'm saying power at 6050 rpm, and it'll be 380 hp, and that is really 250 hp at the rear wheels with an automatic.

imag0116_zpsqsmh7lgt-jpg.jpg


It'll be Asp Poison when you Open up and say Wahaaaaa.

Ignition advance for the fuel your running,
I'm thinking going back to meth injection, and just checking the volumetric tables at 6k once you get it run in after 1500 miles.



Then pipe sizes at the resonation parts of the exhaust need to come down in size,and the tail pipes need to have silancers right at the end to make it sound Aston Martin DB4-ey and not International Garbage truck I6-ey. XK-E V12's got it nailed down......Four pipes is better than one.



Since the 105 Howitzer experience, your 4000 Hz hearing loss might mean your missing the onset of mild engine detonation. Getting it close to detonation without actually getting detonation was how the 1986-1988 Speed Density EFi 5.0's got access to so much grunt when you added timing with an octane booster.


Again, I can die happy seeing you with your current package.

The key to Nailing IT with I6's is Steve's on line tech....you have the best mind to help your quest right there. Its always existed, but MS2 with DIY Autotune is the best single purchase you've made. The Alloy head and ITB's, the second and third.


Maximillion Shell sure lokes happy in the engine bay.

Juan Manuel Fangio would have loved it if he could have seen what you've done.
 
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oh great idea, a meth mist in the tube feeding 'The Box' would allow for much higher ignition timing and bring the intake temps below ambient..... that is if he still had the meth system.....

11:1 comp 25* of timing at wot and an AFR of 13:1 [lambda .88]
 
I'm saying power at 6050 rpm, and it'll be 380 hp, and that is really 250 hp at the rear wheels with an automatic.

imag0116_zpsqsmh7lgt-jpg.jpg


It'll be Asp Poison when you Open up and say Wahaaaaa.

Ignition advance for the fuel your running,
I'm thinking going back to meth injection, and just checking the volumetric tables at 6k once you get it run in after 1500 miles.



Then pipe sizes at the resonation parts of the exhaust need to come down in size,and the tail pipes need to have silancers right at the end to make it sound Aston Martin DB4-ey and not International Garbage truck I6-ey. XK-E V12's got it nailed down......Four pipes is better than one.



Since the 105 Howitzer experience, your 4000 Hz hearing loss might mean your missing the onset of mild engine detonation. Getting it close to detonation without actually getting detonation was how the 1986-1988 Speed Density EFi 5.0's got access to so much grunt when you added timing with an octane booster.


Again, I can die happy seeing you with your current package.

The key to Nailing IT with I6's is Steve's on line tech....you have the best mind to help your quest right there. Its always existed, but MS2 with DIY Autotune is the best single purchase you've made. The Alloy head and ITB's, the second and third.


Maximillion Shell sure lokes happy in the engine bay.

Juan Manuel Fangio would have loved it if he could have seen what you've done.

No clue what the power level should be, but 380 fwhp to 250rwhp is a 35% drivetrain loss. That would have to be the worst trans ever.

Joe
 
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Tonight's' top story...
Trump clutches chest,and falls down the stairs getting off of Airforce One. Fall breaks neck and fracture to skull causes severe bleeding to brain.
He doesn't make it.
"Sad".
Pence declares a National holiday. And is caught doing the Duggie in the Oval office.

*Then I wake up......Dammit! It was just a dream.:mad:

In other news, The completion marches on.

I configured my CAI. Much to the chagrin of the internet Nay-sayers,.The air filter is in the direct path of rain water.

Conversely, It's also in direct path of fresh air as well.
IMAG0014_zpsktuxfsmu.jpg


I try to avoid rain with this car, so it shouldn't be too problematic. The pro outweighs the con. Besides water vapor is good for an engine.:rolleyes:
And it'll have to travel 20 vertical inches.
IMAG0013_zps8hsj8xw6.jpg

and turn 3 90's just to get into the airbox.
IMAG0012_zpsqxn8gowq.jpg

It'll have to be determined water.

I also decided to hook the AFR gauge back up...I just happened to have an old Autometer gauge cup in my tool box,,,
IMAG0015_zpsviuebufa.jpg

The cup was deep enough to allow me to make it "self contained" when it comes time to re-initialize the O2 sensor.
IMAG0017_zpso5pmf81r.jpg
button the back..
IMAG0016_zpsrifedrbt.jpg

Lighty-dude on the back side. Easy-Peasy,........ japaneasy.

It hangs a little farther forward off of the bracket than i would've liked it to, but it's tight, and it's holding stuff where I want it. so....... meh.

So muffler talk time.....

This is the noisy bastard that's under the car now.
IMAG0020_zps4xzutovx.jpg

some SS Magnaflow straight through kinda ding dang deal.

I could replace that with a conventional "turbo muffler", or try one of these 3 chamber things from Magnaflow
MPE-13743_xl.jpg

It's supposed to be a 3 chamber muffler. I guess I could put it in where the existing one is, or splice it in upstream and leave them both in place. Or conversely, If I replace my existing one with this one, and it's still too loud, I could add the old one back in.
 
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No clue what the power level should be, but 380 fwhp to 250rwhp is a 35% drivetrain loss. That would have to be the worst trans ever.

Joe


Normally, a factory lock up clutch AOD suffers a 63% horsepower loss from factory SAE Net at the flywheel to chassis dyno RWHP.

Thats:-


torque converter loss, as when its being dynoed, its not always locked, and dyno counterweights wreck heck on the converter stall speed.



then

auto trans loss,

then axle loss

then tire loss


A Borg Warner T5 losses 28.5% with a 7.5" axle and 225 section tires. Factory 225 Hp SAE Net 5.0 EFi makes just 175 hp at the bags.


An automatic looses bulk power on a chassis dyno, with a minumum total loss from stem Net to Stern at the rollers of 33% from my exprience.

Its conservative...the losses can be way more than 35%, and its been validated time and time again from eveything from Rodger Huntington's Hale based 1/4 mile regressions to Hot Rod and Car Craft's chassis dyno back to. On a standing 1/4 or 1/8 mile, it shows up as a lot less, but a factory based auto is still a huge loss even over a traction limited stick shift drag race.

imag0015_zpsviuebufa-jpg.jpg


The Innovative Seventh gauge. Nice work. Need another two gagues...heart bpm and Noise in dbA....
 
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Normally, a factory lock up clutch AOD suffers a 63% horsepower loss from factory SAE Net at the flywheel to chassis dyno RWHP.

Thats:-


torque converter loss, as when its being dynoed, its not always locked, and dyno counterweights wreck heck on the converter stall speed.



then

auto trans loss,

then axle loss

then tire loss


A Borg Warner T5 losses 28.5% with a 7.5" axle and 225 section tires. Factory 225 Hp SAE Net 5.0 EFi makes just 175 hp at the bags.


An automatic looses bulk power on a chassis dyno, with a minumum total loss from stem Net to Stern at the rollers of 33% from my exprience.

Its conservative...the losses can be way more than 35%, and its been validated time and time again from eveything from Rodger Huntington's Hale based 1/4 mile regressions to Hot Rod and Car Craft's chassis dyno back to. On a standing 1/4 or 1/8 mile, it shows up as a lot less, but a factory based auto is still a huge loss even over a traction limited stick shift drag race.

imag0015_zpsviuebufa-jpg.jpg


The Innovative Seventh gauge. Nice work. Need another two gagues...heart bpm and Noise in dbA....
I gotta say Dean, I don't know whether to be appreciative, or concerned that you know so much about me based on previous junk that I've ever written.
Not that that's all bad, but being able to point out that I have a hearing deficiency at 4khz due to an oversight on a FA gun line, that I've only talked about one time, makes you the only guy here paying that much attention to my ramblings.

@HotFox on the other hand, is the only guy that thinks I stepped in something bad when I got rid of the turbo, despite how the new system looks/runs/sounds.HF, it's not about the power. I don't care that it's makes half of what it made when there was a turbo hanging on the one side.

I care that I was able to take salvage yard itb's off of a German car, adapt them to an Australian head, that is adapted to an American block, and get them to run well enough to idle like a stocker, and run as good as they do across the RPM band.

The US Ford 250 that was in that 78 Maverick that this engine came from made a little over 100hp on its best day. If it makes 225-250 now, I've done something that nobody can do with a NA Windsor.

Double the factory rated HP.
 
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