Oil pump removal in car lessons learned:
1) Unbolt the motor mounts from the K-member, remove the fan, and move as much stuff out of the way on the firewall right above the engine. I say move some things because I broke my MAP sensor during the change.
1.5) Don't make the other mistake I did, take the console piece off around the shifter and remove the boot. Also, take the two nuts off the transmission crossmember so the tranny can raise up a bit. I didn't unbolt the exhaust because I don't have any tailpipes right now and didn't have any bind issues. Your mileage may vary.
2) Jack the engine up as far as it will go using a piece of wood on the front sump or balancer. I used a piece of 2x6, because it is wider.
3) Once the engine is up, take sections of 2x4 and drive them between the motor mounts and k member. At this point, the engine will be squarely against the firewall.
4) S+ome have said that you can remove the oil pan from the block and drop it down far enough to work. I did not find this to be true. I unbolted the steering rack from the k member and disconnected the rag joint. I then dropped the rack down a bit to make clearence to get the oil pan down far enough for the fun stuff.
5) YOU CANNOT GET THE OIL PAN OUT OF THE CAR WITHOUT UNBOLTING THE PICKUP/PUMP FROM THE BLOCK WITH THE PAN STILL ON THE K MEMBER. I know, I hate caps more than anybody, but this is important. The removal and re-install work will be done with the oil pan still on the k member. This is why you need to make as much room as possible between the pan and the block. Be aware of the pump driveshaft, which will loosen and fall when the pump is unbolted. Might want to catch that before it goes to the bottom of the pan unless you do the smart thing and remove the pan during the operation.
6) I did have a problem with the new pump driveshaft that I installed. I got the FRPP one that is hardened (cheap insurance or broken dist gear, depnending on who you talk to) and could not get the "star" washer pressed onto it correctly. When I tried to tap it on, the little fingers bent and the washer would not stay on tight. It is there to keep the shaft in the pump when you pull the distrubutor and I do not plan on pulling the dist. anytime before the new engine is in the car. Somebody else might have a tip on doing that part correctly.
7) I did replace my oil pan at the same time because the assclown that owned the car before me decided to strip the front oil plug and not tell me. In order to get the pan all the way out, I did have to put a floor jack on the transmission and give it a little shove up to fit the pan between the bellhousing and the car.
Reinstallation is the reverse, except remember to set the shaft into the pump and guide it into the dist. gear, turning where needed.
Do yourself a favor and get a couple things at the part store. Pick up a roll of those disposable shop towels. As clean as you think your car is, it is not under there. Also, get the fel-pro rubber gasket with the steel core. It works great and comes with the little inserts to hold the gasket/pan into place so you can start the bolts. I was able to do this in one day, probably 8 or so hours, because I took my time and had some bad info from some other forums.
Just remember, the oil pan will not come out until the pump/pickup is unbolted. Then they can be dropped into the pan and the whole kit and caboodle can be pulled out through the rear. I then had lots of room to clean the gasket surfaces with the pan out of the way. I have heard of people working around the pan, but could not imagine doing that.
I also put a new pickup on with the pump. I know, extra expense, but I have had problems with crap in the tube in the past and like $19 is going to kill me. I also used the Melling "p" pump, which is a slightly higher pressure pump than stock. Not higher volume, just pressure. The relief spring in the pump is a little stiffer and that keeps the line pressure up a bit, useful on a stock, high mileage motor. I am not a big fan of the high volume pump on a stock type combination because enough smart people have said that a high mileage motor might have gunk in the oil return passages and keep the oil in the top of the motor for a longer time than the high volume pump leaves it in the pan. I have not seen this personally, but do know that a high volume pump does take more HP to move since it holds more oil internally. Also, I have seen clearence issues on some HV pumps and fox pans. Again, to each his own. Good luck and my hands are numb..
John