300bhp/ton
New Member
Ok but fiddling the dyno to read what you want isn’t the point of this topic and is not relevant, although a possible interest to some…. lolYou are making this easy if I have to use a Mustang Dyno. All I would have to do is bolt my Mustang back together and take it to a Mustang Dyno which is about 2.5 hours away. Mustang Dyno's are VERY EASY to manipulate. All I would have to do is change a few settings and I could show a stock 2005 Mustang GT making 350 RWHP SAE corrected. Using a Dyno-Jet, I wouldn't be able to do that. Dyno-Jet's are the industry standard BTW.
As for Dynojets, yes I agree they are popular in the US but are by no means a global standard as they are much rarer on this side of the Atlantic.
Also the issue I have with Dynojets is that as they are predominantly inertia style dyno’s (uses a static drag brake) and the HP they derive does not tally up very well with the ratings used by motor manufacturers.
Take any car like a 120bhp Honda Civic, make the assumption the 120bhp SAE Net is 100% accurate (or as near as). Most load bearing dyno’s would confirm this, yet due to how a Dynojet works it would appear to be making more HP. A bit like $10 USD and $10 Aus, they are both dollars and both carry the same numeric value, however one is more valuable than the other.
Using a Dynojet when your initial numbers are based off of factory numbers is IMO only similar to fiddling a Mustang Dyno as the numbers have been inflated.
I have no problem with this. And yes 340rwhp is probably possible. But 340rwhp still isn’t 350rwhp and if that 340rwhp is from a Dynojet then it would be equivalent to about 318rwhp on a Mustang Dyno.Read this thread. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=725532
All he has is a JLT CAI, Steeda UDP's, Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe, Steeda Axleback exhaust and a custom dyno tune. That car is making 316 RWHP N/A SAE corrected.
I wonder what would happen if he was to add a Meziere electric water pump, CMCV deletes, and long tube headers to his car and have it retuned? How much power do you think he would have? My guess would have him at around 340 RWHP and the car wouldn't be any harder to drive than a stock GT.
So without wanting to piss you off, can you see my point of view and why I don’t believe a bolt on 4.6 can make 350rwhp or even close?
And please don’t think this is some stupid brand loyalty because I don’t believe the crap banded about on Fbody forums about the LS1 either. None of them make 317rwhp stock although it has been claimed by a magazine. Once you correct for dyno type, SAE and graph smoothing the figures always equalize around the 290rwhp+- mark for stock Fbodys.
I agree with this 100% YES really I do. But I thought the topic was about making 350rwhp BOLT ON only. All of these setups are running cams and/or heads.http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9630
Add a set of Comp Stg 3 cams to that and he would be around 360 RWHP.
Here is another car that made 347 RWHP N/A SAE corrected with Cats. http://www.brenspeed.com/tech/compcams.html
A quick recap of the mods for 347 RWHP:
C&L Racer CAI, BBK TB, Pulleys, Delete plates, Comp Stg 3 cams, Kooks Long tube headers, Catted X-pipe, Mac Axleback, Brenspeed tune on a 5 speed maual car. Again another car that is very streetable. Add an electric water pump or remove the cats and it's there. Still doubting that 350 RWHP claim as being tough to get and not being streetable?
If a person was to do the following mods, they would get 350 RWHP at a minimum. It wouldn't matter where they are or what conditions, but in most cases, they would have the HP and could drive the car every day as every accessory is still there and working and on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. The only place where they might not have 350 RWHP is in higher altitude locations like Colorado. They would have to do every mod listed.
CAI( I can't believe I am saying this ) - JLT, C&L Racer or Steeda
Steeda Economy CMCV Deletes
FRPP 3V P&P heads
Comp Stg 3 Cams
Kooks or American Racing Headers Long Tube headers with or without cats
X or H pipe
Meziere Electric Water pump
Steeda UDP's
1 piece driveshaft
Good tune for 91 - 94 octane fuel
Optional items:
BBK 62mm Twin TB
Axleback exhaust of personal choice
Aluminum Flywheel
You would likely get 350 RWHP N/A without adding the heads, I listed them to ensure that the car would make the goal of 350 RWHP N/A in most locations and conditions. Pricing these parts out won't be cheap, a fair low estimate is $6000.00. If you were to not do the heads, you would be looking at around $3500.00 as a fair low estimate. Doing a good chunk of those mods would help later if adding F/I.
Adding every bolt on I mentioned as required or optional will bring you very close to 380 RWHP on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. Race fuel and tuned for it, could push the 400 RWHP mark. The 4.6 3V responds very well to mods.
I’m not wanting to be at odds with you and I guess if we can’t agree then we’ll have to agree to disagree.
The only closing comment I’d add is that if you took a 350rwhp SAE Dynojet car and ripped the motor out and slapped it on an engine dyno and tested it to FULL SAE Net standards you might expect 410-412bhp SAE Net from it according to the 15% rule.
However due to my belief that Dynojets don’t represent HP as accurately I firmly believe you’d see a number more like 385bhp SAE Net.
But its all numbers at the end of the day.
Laters