351W Block question.

[67stangboy]

I'm in search of a 69' to 70 351w for my stroker project so stoped into my local mustang supply shop to see if they had any or knew of any one who was selling one. Came back with nothing but he suggested that I look for a 1971 austrailian block. He said as far as the 351w's go this one has the heighest nickel content and is much stronger than the 69' to 70' blocks. Has any one every heard this? He had one in the shop that was his and he was not wanting to sell but he did give me the casting number off of the block so I could use it in my junkyard search tommrow. Heres the code, I was just wanting to know if i'm getting sent on a wild goose chase or if this is somthing I should be interested in.

Thanks,
Jason

*doh forgot to post the number D1AE6015DA*
I have this decoded as 1971 found in a Galaxie, correct me if I'm wrong on this

 

[D.Hearne]

Here we go again with the "higher Nickle" content thing. There's a guy named Dave Shoe over on the network54 big block FE ford forum that has Ford's records relating to their engine block casting techniques. They very rarely if ever added nickel to the iron for strength. Their main additives were chromium and phosphorus. Yea, there was some nickel in the block, but not so much that it added strength more than any other production block. Too much and you get a hard block that wears the crap out of the machining tools. Never heard of an "Australian" Windsor block. And that part number you posted is a std production block, FOUND IN ANY FORD, LINCOLN OR MERCURY VEHICLE that came with a 351W under the hood. The earlier 69-70 blocks had slightly shorter decks, and some say they're stronger, but even that's debateable. If you want a stronger than stock block you need to go fork over $2500 and get a Dart or other brand block. Picking one from a junkyard is really pot luck.

 

[67stangboy]

Thanks for the info, I've heard it so many diffrent ways I didn't know what to believe. I've heard that I should only look for pre '74 351's and the that I should only look for 69/70 blocks and now this "austrailian" block. I was about to just say screw it im getting a 390 and praying I never have to change the spark plugs.

Once again thanks for the input, I never thought finding a block would be this big of a pain.

 

[ForceFed70]

Are you looking for only the block or the heads as well?

If all you want is the block then I believe anything before 1974 were all the same. The 69/70 351W's are the most sought after because of the cylinder heads...but the blocks are the same as the 71-73's.

 

[67stangboy]

Just after a strong block to build a stroker with. Looking at a 408, I would like to get about 480 to 500 FWHP and about the same or a little less on the torque. Want to keep it strong enough to have the option of adding a blower to the car later on without starting all over.

 

[bnickel]

Are you looking for only the block or the heads as well?

If all you want is the block then I believe anything before 1974 were all the same. The 69/70 351W's are the most sought after because of the cylinder heads...but the blocks are the same as the 71-73's.

actually the 69/70 blocks have a slightly shorter deck height. the 69/70 have a 9.480 inch deck height and the 71-later blocks have a 9.500 inch deck height. it does make a difference when selecting pistons because you can end up with the piston sticking up out of the block or really really low compression if you mix the wrong pistons with the wrong block.

 

[D.Hearne]

The .020 difference isn't a very good excuse for passing over later blocks. Any machineshop can even things out on that account. If he's building a blown stroker, he really needs an aftermarket block. IMHO.

 

[67stangboy]

Thats what I was afraid of hearing. I guess fast aint cheap and cheap aint fast. A regular 351w block should hold up for the stroker correct?

 

[D.Hearne]

Yea, the stroker part is fine, just when you're talking about huffing it, that part adds a little bit more stress. If you're not concerned about longetivity, go for the stock block. Some may disagee, but that's just my opinion. It's your money. I've seen alot of dirt track guys pick and choose the so called short deck Windsors over the tall deck, but the difference there is only .020. I just don't see the reasoning there, when milling that amount is a simple operation at any machine shop. And the power you're talking about with a stroker AND a blower? to me that's taking it to the limit with a stock block, and the minute differences from year to year doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If anything I'd avoid a mid to late 70's block, those were about Ford's darkest years when it comes to quality. I also think your machineshop guy got his 351's mixed up. There were stronger Aussie 351's but those were Cleveland blocks from what I've heard. There's a few members lurking here that are down there, they would know and chip in if there was such an animal as an Aussie Windsor.

 

[C0V3R]

Its possible that there were some 351ws made in Aus, but I dont know enough about the cars that are likely to have them to tell you if they are anything special.

Try asking over at www.fordforums.com.au someone there may know.

 

[67stangboy]

Thanks for all the info, D.Hearne you are a wealth of knowledge man.

When I talk about adding a blower to the motor thats the crazy side of my head talking that is looking 20 years down the road when I have kids that are almost old enough to drive. If I go that far as to ad a blower im going to do it up bit and just put a big block in the car. I've got enough of a project on my hands just building a solid 408 that can make the numbers I want and then upgrading the suspension, tranny, and rear end to be able to handle it.

So ignore the crazy me that talks about power adders, he is the side that wants to push 1000hp and stand the car up on its back bumper. He's nuts, my wife has learned to ignore him.

 

[rbohm]

if all you are looking for is to make 500hp, then a stock block will work just fine. also any 351w block will work well also, in fact if you can find one from a 94 and later truck as those had roller cams in them.

 

[bnickel]

The .020 difference isn't a very good excuse for passing over later blocks. Any machineshop can even things out on that account. If he's building a blown stroker, he really needs an aftermarket block. IMHO.

i agree completely, i just wanted to point out the pitfalls of mismatching components designed for the different blocks.

 

[67coupestang]

I hate to chime in my .02 but wasnt the "higher nickel" that made it into some blocks, just supposed to reduce the amount of wear the block recieves from moving internals, lets say pistons? I didnt think it actually added strength???

 

[D.Hearne]

I hate to chime in my .02 but wasnt the "higher nickel" that made it into some blocks, just supposed to reduce the amount of wear the block recieves from moving internals, lets say pistons? I didnt think it actually added strength???

Yea the nickel in the block makes it harder and more resistent to wear, but as I pointed out before, that fellow Dave Shoe has Ford's records and from what I've read of his findings in them, Ford didn't add any more nickel than necessary. Too much and they'd have been swapping cutting tools more than was profitable to do. There basically no "high nickel" blocks as some people selling these "high nickel" blocks would lead you to believe. It's sort of an "Urban Myth" sales tool.

 

[ForceFed70]

They may not have added nickel, but is it possible some of the metal they bought had more nickel in it to begin with?

 

[67stangboy]

So basicly for what I plan on doing I can look for almost any 351W block I want. That makes it a heck of a lot easier. There is a local swap meet going on today so I might check that out to see if I can find a block.

Also, if I go with a 94 or newer block doesn't that require me to run fuel injection? I want to stay with a carb on this car.

 

[mtbdoc]

My reliable source [very experienced engine builder w/ a building full of 'cores'] DOES believe the '69 is stronger. The webbing is thicker. He's doing 4 bolt splayed caps on my 408w...which IS being fitted with a blower. He is quite sure that this engine will hold up in its duty for a show-car, weekend cruiser, and RARELY a drag strip runner. We shall see...

I have backtracked and decided that I WILL put A/C in it [he is setting up the pulleys so that we can run A/C and PS] as I may want to take this car on the Power Tour or something like that...this year I was clearly convinced that it would be torture in an un-A/C'd car [it got hot in the new GTO!].

 

[D.Hearne]

So basicly for what I plan on doing I can look for almost any 351W block I want. That makes it a heck of a lot easier. There is a local swap meet going on today so I might check that out to see if I can find a block.

Also, if I go with a 94 or newer block doesn't that require me to run fuel injection? I want to stay with a carb on this car.

Only thing different about the 94-up F4TE block is it's roller ready. No difference in running a carb. I've carbed a few roller 5.0's. They actually do better with the EFI cams. The casting quality is so much better with the later blocks (87-up) than the earlier ones, the 5.0's actually have more beef in them than the older ones. 10 lbs more iron. I'd bet the 351's do as well.

 

[StaffAmerica74]

well i have a 74 351 windsor and was told its good 71-74