5 lug axel from a maverick?

Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by Eos, Aug 2, 2004.

  1. Maverick shafts, while close to the correct length (did not require shortening), are also NOT a direct swap.

    The II bearing retainer plate/housing end has an odd bolt pattern. The bearing area of the shaft is also smaller than the Mav shaft surface. Machine work WILL be required to use them, you cannot simply use the II bearing retainers on the Mav shafts.

    If I were doing this today, I would spend the money to have shafts with the correct dimensions made, or utilize an axle assembly with the desired width, and move the perches to the correct location. The second choice is likely the better if you're looking for performance, as it should use better brakes, and larger axle shafts.
  2. I paid about $180 for my NEW 5 lug Moser axles, with studs.

    Is it really worth it to scour junkyards looking for 30 year old used axles, and then trying to make them fit, over spending $200 or so?
  3. I *like* scouring junkyards and swap meets. But that's just me.
  4. I've seen 2 or 3 different ways to do the conversion and all appear to work. The thing I liked about this particular swap is that you could still use II brake parts, so you don't have to keep a record of what came from where when it's time for a brake job and the swap was easily reversible, which isn't possible if you use another axle. With a rare breed such as a King the axles could be easily swapped upon resale of the car, to make the car more valuable to purists. I didn't realize the Moser axles were so reasonably priced but the junkyard axles in this case are still a 1/10 of their price. I guess it depends how you want to spend your time. I personally like picking over the carcass of an old car but those that don't have a pretty cost effective alternative. I enjoyed seeing everyones take on this swap, never hurts to look at things from many different perspectives.
  5. So you can get a set of axles for $20? Where I am, junkyards get about $100-$150 for a set of used axles.

    Also, you are getting a 30 year old USED axle. The reason to change to 5 lug is because most of us are increasing the power on our cars, and need a better axle and 5 lug wheels for more durability. Why put a 30 year old used part in, when the PROPER, better quality part is really not that expensive?

    You also don't have to change anything on the brakes aside from the drums.

    I know lots of people like to scour boneyards. I'm the same way whenever I get to be in one. But there's a difference when you are looking for a key part of the drivetrain, that can turn into a safety factor with a car making some HP.
  6. :scratch:

    (Feverishly looking up "Safety Factor" in the Dictionary. . . .)

    Ah. Yeah, there's a concept.

  7. I don't know, I've never tried to buy just the axle shafts, I was just going by the cost breakdown in the link. Around here though, at the local pick-a-part, you can buy a complete axle assembly, from drum to drum, for $100.

    I agree 100%, and will pursue that route when I do this conversion again. Considering you wouldn't have to press the bearings off an old axle to do the machine work is another plus. I just didn't know the Moser axles were so competitively priced. I appreciate the info.
  8. Which is sort of curious as years ago I tried getting retainers by themselves but could only get them if I bought the bearing.

    Since that was years ago I don't know if today the retainers can be purchased by themselves. ?

    If they can be purchased by themselves this would explane how he had a set to sell. But if you can't buy them seperately makes me wonder if this spare set was used (never reuse a retainer, they are a use it once item) or they were new and the person reused old retainers.

    Most curious.
  9. Personally, I feel the II axle housing a waste of time.

    Their skinny tubed and weak, and nothing fits between different housings except the chunk.

    I feel it best to do the drum to drum (rotor to rotor) move the perches swap.
  10. My understanding of the link was that they were refering to the bearing retainer/flange that's between the bearing and wheel hub, the one that bolts to the axle. That flange is different on a II than any 5 lug 8". You're right though, if it's the one that's pressed behind the bearing, it's a one time use and I also have only been able to get them with new bearings.
  11. True, true.

    Correct me if I'm wrong but that is a difficult swap to my knowledge. You have to remove the spring perches from the old diff and add them to the new one. The hardest part is getting the pinion angle correct and realigning the tracking between front and rear.

    For me, the reason to change to 5-lug was to get a better selection of rims. Honestly I look forward to the day when I do break the axles. It'll be a sign that I must have done something right. :--)

  12. Moody, get out of my head.

    I bought the 5-lug axle because there were so few rims for the II. Of course, two weeks after I bought it, I found a guy who was giving away a set of 4-bolt, 15" '89 Turbines. :bang:

  13. A drum to drum swap more difficult than what? I've found it easier to come up with a grinder and welder than a lathe. Cheaper too.

    NOTE: Because the axle tube is tapered so is the perch, and no radi matches a standard 8" tube. Thus the II perches aren't worth salvage. To me the perches on the 'new' housing have to be relocated because of the 1/2 to 3/4 inch difference in perch spacing thus the need for a grinder and welder. Could hack the 'new' housing in by simply tightening the bolts but thats a shoddy pratice.

    Note: the old perches from the new housing have to be reused, I have never been able to find aftermarket perches with the 2 7/8 inch diameter +- of the new tube.

    Pinion angle is an issue BUT once an angle is decided on there is nothing hard about setting it. And the fact the pinion angle CAN be reset is a BIG bonus.

    The best thing about going to virturally any other Ford axle is a World of Factory and Aftermarket parts opens, Rims and tires being only a part of it. Now brake parts can be used without having to 'modify' anything. This itself offsets any additional difficulty in a whole axle system swap.

    For me it was because the II needs bigger tires which means bigger rims unless I want to find doughnuts, which I don't.

    And I can't see making room for bigger brakes and not using it. Especially since I feel the stock brakes are underpowered as it is.

    I can't say I feel exactly the opposit of this, it will be nice to accelerate that hard. BUT If I start twisting axles I'm going to have to buy the more expensive 32+ spline centers.

    Plus, a tire flopping around because of a broken axle is a bit more excitement than I need. And do I really need my bumper on a hook?
  14. :D Ok I have posed this question to Fred Glazier of Mustang Monthly Magazine, in trying to find out the correct axle legnths so that I may order new ones when I get ready to. Here are the dimentions:

    Mustang II /// 65-66 Mustang
    Right axle

    29 7/8 /// 30 1/8

    Left axle

    25 13/16 /// 26 5/64

    When I got to breaking it all down the pair were 1/4 in shorter than the classic ones. Sure you can use the backing plates from a Ranger and the hardware out of a boneyard because I couldnt find backing plates in the catalogs or you can go to the stealer and get them, that is up to you. I would not go thru all that hassle and get 9in axles and do all that to it when I can buy new. I will let you know how my conversion comes out.:owned: