5 lug swap brake identification needed

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So you need to think of the axle assembly like it’s going into an SN95 car. Basically upgrading a 1995 GT to Cobra brakes.

The axle brackets will need to be Cobra specific.
 
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You need either the m-2300-m kit


Or the cheaper LMR kit. The difference being the axle brackets in the Ford kit are cast iron, and the LMR brackets (which are sold on eBay for under $100 by a Chinese vendor) are aluminum. Also no rotors



You also need the Cardone 14-1042 bracket above.
 
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You need either the m-2300-m kit


Or the cheaper LMR kit. The difference being the axle brackets in the Ford kit are cast iron, and the LMR brackets (which are sold on eBay for under $100 by a Chinese vendor) are aluminum. Also no rotors



You also need the Cardone 14-1042 bracket above.
I was hoping the aluminum would be better... that kit is decent but I already have rotors. Now you have me thinking about the aluminum and holes enlarging over time ugh.. I'm not going to sleep now lol
 
I was hoping the aluminum would be better... that kit is decent but I already have rotors. Now you have me thinking about the aluminum and holes enlarging over time ugh.. I'm not going to sleep now lol

I have the same thoughts. Might be overblown, but I have no data to say if it’s a good idea or not. Lots of aftermarket rear big brake kits use aluminum adapter brackets.

Since you already have rotors, dust shields and hardware, you can simplify further.

The rear cobra brackets (aluminum) all over eBay for cheap.

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Or the UPR ones

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The the anti-moans are optional. You can try it without them, and if you have moaning, add them later


Then you just need the Cardone cobra caliper brackets.


Also, cobra pads are thinner to accommodate the thicker rotor. If your GT pads are well worn, then may clear, but you might have to get cobra pads. Also, some aftermarket pads sell the GT and cobra under the cobra (thinner) pad number just to cut down to one set of pads for GT/v6/cobra
 
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I went down to finish up the job this morning, I left the parking brake cables for last thinking it would be a 10 minute job. It seems like I have to cut a notch in the moan brackets now so the cables can fit.. is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong here? I needed to pull some slack out so they would reach, they reach the hole but can't go in because they hit the brackets.
 
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I went down to finish up the job this morning, I left the parking brake cables for last thinking it would be a 10 minute job. It seems like I have to cut a notch in the moan brackets now so the cables can fit.. is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong here? I needed to pull some slack out so they would reach, they reach the hole but can't go in because they hit the brackets.


From another thread:
E brake cables, there is a possibility that you can re use your factory e brake cables by relocating the brackets so they dont make contact with the wheels, what i did was buy some steel zip ties and attach the brake cable to the calipers and zip tie the loose part of the cable to the lower control arms, then relocate the bracket by drilling 2 holes one for the screw and one for the retaining fold (you'll see what i mean when you get down there) if you go this route you do not need to modify your e brake cable, now this isnt guaranteed to work(worked on my 88 but not my 87)
 
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