65-66 Fastback Aerodynamics?
- Thread starter BALLSTOTHEWALL
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dodgestang
Active Member
65 fastback
Founding Member
Back when the car came out there was an aftermarket front end, that was supposed to help the aerodynamics. I've got a link at work, but not here at home. You can try searching Fiberfab Mustang.
But then again, I don't think it was a big seller.
Tim
But then again, I don't think it was a big seller.
Tim
zookeeper
Founding Member
Here's a little info on just how bad the aerodynamics are on older cars: the wipers on my wife's 69 Corvette work when they feel like it. Anyone who's ever seen late '60's/early 70's vette wipers knows how they work with a vacuum trap door, etc. Anyway we got caught in a storm a few years ago, and went to the local parts store to get some Rain-X, which has always worked well. The rain didn't blow off of the Corvette windshield, because the car is so crappy, aero-wise, that the wind didn't touch it! The raindrops just sat there in front of us, not budging at all. I'd also bet money that that generation 'vette is much slicker than our Mustangs with their concave grills, headlights and such...
Route666
Active Member
It's pretty sad, the aerodynamics of the classic stangs. They're all around .55 from what I've heard.
in hotrod a couple a years ago there was a guy who was running the silverstate claccic with a '67. he covered the head light buckets with lexan and claimed that it gave him 7 mph...I don't think thay it would be that high. things that I would do for better flow
1. decress the front grill size by adding filler to bring the dead space out to the hood line
2. cover the headlight buckets
3. remove the windsheild wiper, and "ford " letters off of the hood
4.add a front air damn
5. add wedge to the car aka drop the front
Jim
1. decress the front grill size by adding filler to bring the dead space out to the hood line
2. cover the headlight buckets
3. remove the windsheild wiper, and "ford " letters off of the hood
4.add a front air damn
5. add wedge to the car aka drop the front
Jim
HistoricMustang
Active Member
Here are a couple of things I have done.
Using an aluminum radiator, lexan the grill area. Use the ole duck tape under the headlight buckets and across the underside of the grill. Use a small spoiler and close off the gap between the hood and the top of the radiator. Use hood pins that pull the hood down. No windshied wipers at the track and tape the hood openings if the competition is really tight. I also tape the cowl louvers and get the front of the car just as low as possible. Open the back of the hood a little by putting washers between the hood and the hinges. This lets the air out. I use a plate between the grille and radiator (up top). I use a lexan rear glass with holes cut to let air out of the interior. My interior/vents have been sealed. My louvers on the fastback have a plate instead of the louvers.
Have seen nice looking holes cut into the rear of the car to let air out of the trunk area. Also have seen holes in the rear valance. The really fast rides have no drip rails and have seen the fenders pinned behind the front wheels to prevent air getting trapped.
Let me think some more and when I get some free time will get all of this up at: www.historicmustang.com/tech.html
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Using an aluminum radiator, lexan the grill area. Use the ole duck tape under the headlight buckets and across the underside of the grill. Use a small spoiler and close off the gap between the hood and the top of the radiator. Use hood pins that pull the hood down. No windshied wipers at the track and tape the hood openings if the competition is really tight. I also tape the cowl louvers and get the front of the car just as low as possible. Open the back of the hood a little by putting washers between the hood and the hinges. This lets the air out. I use a plate between the grille and radiator (up top). I use a lexan rear glass with holes cut to let air out of the interior. My interior/vents have been sealed. My louvers on the fastback have a plate instead of the louvers.
Have seen nice looking holes cut into the rear of the car to let air out of the trunk area. Also have seen holes in the rear valance. The really fast rides have no drip rails and have seen the fenders pinned behind the front wheels to prevent air getting trapped.
Let me think some more and when I get some free time will get all of this up at: www.historicmustang.com/tech.html
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
mr-fixit said:
That's friggin' funny...
Anyways, you could always make the front end like the original concept car.
http://mustang1.com/mustang1.html
Historic has some real nice ideas. Some are actually in prototype stages as aftermarket parts.
When all else fails, just add more horsepower!
65 fastback
Founding Member
Hey Historic,
Can you elaborate on the following? I'm getting a lot of front end lift at 90 mph+. I need to eliminate some of the air getting into the engine compartment and having the hood parachute.
Also, it sounds similar to - http://jmichael.info/docsairfoil.htm
Can you post some pictures?
Thanks,
Tim
Can you elaborate on the following? I'm getting a lot of front end lift at 90 mph+. I need to eliminate some of the air getting into the engine compartment and having the hood parachute.
Also, it sounds similar to - http://jmichael.info/docsairfoil.htm
Can you post some pictures?
Thanks,
Tim
HistoricMustang
Active Member
Sorry, but this is the best pic I have at the current time. This does show the plate between radiator and grille. Some folks run it to the top of the radiator which is a good idea. Mine actually goes completely around the radiator to keep the air from "moving" around in the front end cavity area. It also forces the air through the radiator as my grille is blocked off using lexan. The only air entering the front of the car is through the "Shelby" opening below the grille. The air enters there and has no where to go except through the grille. It then exits the engine compartment a the rear of the hood which has been opened up slightly, using washers on the hinges, to let the air out.
Between the radiator support and the hood, there is a gap that allows air into the engine bay. This is plugged using foam covered with tape that has been applied to the hood. Sorry no pic but you get the idea. Just take a minute and look under your hood when it is closed and you will get the idea. The foam (covered with nice looking tape) on the hood will sit on top of the radiator support.
Lexan over the grille area is a simple project but I do not suggest this unless you are running an aluminum radiator and the Shelby front apron. The set up forces so much air through the radiator that I do not use a fan at the track. it is not needed.
Hope this helps and I will try to get some more pics.
Henry
Between the radiator support and the hood, there is a gap that allows air into the engine bay. This is plugged using foam covered with tape that has been applied to the hood. Sorry no pic but you get the idea. Just take a minute and look under your hood when it is closed and you will get the idea. The foam (covered with nice looking tape) on the hood will sit on top of the radiator support.
Lexan over the grille area is a simple project but I do not suggest this unless you are running an aluminum radiator and the Shelby front apron. The set up forces so much air through the radiator that I do not use a fan at the track. it is not needed.
Hope this helps and I will try to get some more pics.
Henry
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HistoricMustang
Active Member
Of course that first paragraph should say the air has no where to go except through the radiator. Sorry - I should preview before posting.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Route666
Active Member
Hey Historic, not bagging out your aero work, serious question here:
Are you sure that the air exits the engine compartment through the back of the hood? That area is a high-pressure zone anyways, hence how cowl-induction works, so are you sure it isn't just sucking more air into the engine bay?
Are you sure that the air exits the engine compartment through the back of the hood? That area is a high-pressure zone anyways, hence how cowl-induction works, so are you sure it isn't just sucking more air into the engine bay?
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