73MM caliper brake pad ?'s

Sevan

Founding Member
Dec 4, 2001
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I'm in the process of upgrading my front calipers to 73MM's. Can I use the stock brake pads? If not, does anyone know the brake pad part number or what to ask for the the parts store.

Thanks
 
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Yes 73's are a direct bolt on. You can use mustang pads but you have to bend the tabs a little to fit due to the larger bore of the caliper piston. You can also just ask for 91 lincoln Mark VII pads.
 
I went to a 90' Crown Vic 73mm caliper and just bought the Hawk Pads, well worth the cash and they stop way better than the stock pads.

The question for me is the master cylinder, I am using the original and its very mushy. if you search old threads yoiull find one from '03. in that they state a M/C from a 86' SVO - 94'-98' LX/GT - 93' Cobra is the way to go.

Now I'm new to brakes also so if this is the case the only questions I would ask is:

What's the original bore size on a 91' LX? (Inset your year here)

Does going to a higher bore size require replacing of any other parts such as the brake booster?

If I use a 86' SVO - 94'-98' LX/GX - 93' Cobra M/C, do those use the same line size as the original 91' LX? (want to know if im gonna have to replace brake lines) I'm hoping I can just drop in a 94-98 LX/GX M/C, since I'm trying to keep the Brake Res sensor.

Didn't mean to hijack your thread just doing the same as yourself but I thought you might want to think about the M/C also.

Here's the 03' Thread for ya http://forums.stangnet.com/archive/index.php/t-401230
 
i am using a 87-88 turbo coupe proportion valve, its much bigger then the stock one. i just installed a SN95 master cylinder with my stock booster. i had to cut the driver side brake line beacuse the old master cylinder had its own slot for the driver side and the SN95 does not have that slot. finding the correct bore sizes is a mission. i had to make custom fittings to make the whole thing work from the proportion valve.
 
Nice, I hope that works out for ya, with my little knowledge I am tryiong to stay away from needed modifications.

I'm heading to the store to pick up a Wagner M/C, the direct replacement for the 94-95 5.0L, Hoping the information I've been reading is correct.

In a couple months I'll be upgrading to rear disc, the only thing I'm worried about is that I'm gonna need another M/C for the rear disc. Hate to pay twice ya know.
 
if the MC that your getting is for a 94-95 stang then you would not have to replace it agian when you convert to rear disks.

I'm just findind out the changing the MC and keeping the stock booster the booster rod has to be turn 1.5 turns? Does anyone have any explanination for this? Also do you turn it clockwise or counter clockwise?
 
Well....

I just got back with my 94' M/C and I'm strapping it in my vice and I go back to the car to lift the hood and let her cool, when I glance under the existing M/C and notice theres a Third line going up into the M/C from underneath - GDIT!!! The new master has only (2) ports on the passenger side - none underneath it.

Any input would be appreciated.

As i read more I noticed I need to do this "3 to 2 Port Conversion". I noticed in the link to your article he had exactly what I needed, but when i go on ford's Sight looking for it, I cannot find it.

Anyone know a model# of a proportioning valve that converts 3 to 2?
 
Ok, so I'm outside staring at this damn prop valve, when i notice at the rear there is another threaded inlet as in the 94' Cobra prop valve. The only problem is that I don't know if that's what it's made for or if it will affect the distribution of fluid. if it is a viable inlet then all I have to do is have the third line bent and flared.

Now the original is not adjustable, should I be looking for an adjustable or you think it's viable jsut to reuse the old one?

BTW Ford told me that Adj. Prop Valve in the article is off a 94' Cobra FYI...
 
Ford will not have what your looking for. this is how i got mine to work.

you will need one of these. you will need adapters to make it all fit. this will attatch to the bottom rear side of the prop valve. so, the top goes into the prop valve, the bottom will hook up to the original brake line then the side opening will have the driver side brake line. i had to cut and re-flare the driver side brake line and also replaced the connector to a different one the mats up to the T-adapter, because the original bubble top connector would not fit into the T-adapter. to connect the driver side brake line to the T you will need a reducer then both fronts a pressured now.. its easy to do, just rent the tool and practice a few times and you will get it. look at the link

http://www.amstreetrod.com/BrakeSystem/f972050BERL.jpg

then i just went to town figuring out what size connectors that i needed
 
Well Holy #$%^! Now that's what I'm talking about! Awesome info there man, that's exactly what i needed to know.

Whats your thoughts on just going through the inlet on the back of the original that they have plugged?
 
i tired to open that end up and it would no open. so i went an alternative way and it works.

would you happen to have the part number on the brake pads that i need?