Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Cliff Notes Edition
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
- Start date
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The deck lid is nice and straight now. I will primer the topside with two more coats of primer and do a finish blocking. I'm getting ready to turn it over to reseam seal it here shortly.
I got the underneath side all sanded down and masked up for seam sealing. It'll get done in the morning. I'll use that blue fine line tape to run the final line I want before using flowable seam sealer.
Seam sealed
I had to use heavy body seam sealer again, dumby didn't check to see if he had any flowable. It works fine though, just a little more work to make it smooth
I had to use heavy body seam sealer again, dumby didn't check to see if he had any flowable. It works fine though, just a little more work to make it smooth
I won't get it painted today, but it is finally blocked out. Tomorrow it'll be blue. Then on to the bumper
Here's the deck lid in blue. Before, during and after
I'll get one in the sun when it's done baking.
I'll get one in the sun when it's done baking.
@RaggedGT asked me to show him what I'm doing to the front bumper. So, the before picture you can see where the sun has beat the paint clean off some areas. Up close you can see the pitting and dried plastic on the surface. I'm using 180 grit to sand over these areas to remove the dried plastic first, plus this will provide the mechanical adhesion for the polyflex bondo I will use on it.
Before I spread the mud I will spray the raw plastic with a plastic adhesion promoter. I've found this makes the repair adhere much better when needing to do this kind of work.
The polyflex will fill all the small knicks as well.
Before I spread the mud I will spray the raw plastic with a plastic adhesion promoter. I've found this makes the repair adhere much better when needing to do this kind of work.
The polyflex will fill all the small knicks as well.
So the bumper had a decent dent/pushed in area along the moulding below the grill and to the right. I didn't take a good picture of it before hand, sorry.
What I did to fix it was to make a jig to place behind it and used a heat gun and a body shrinking hammer and beat on it lightly after I heated it. This isn't like metal, you don't need to wack it hard. Same principle as metal though. You're forcing the molecules tighter together again after they had initially been stretched out.
So pictures, I'm pleased with how it turned out. Before:
After:
What I did to fix it was to make a jig to place behind it and used a heat gun and a body shrinking hammer and beat on it lightly after I heated it. This isn't like metal, you don't need to wack it hard. Same principle as metal though. You're forcing the molecules tighter together again after they had initially been stretched out.
So pictures, I'm pleased with how it turned out. Before:
After:
There are just so many small chips that I decided to primer the whole bumper first or I would be wiping the entire top surface with the polyflex.
I used a plastic adhesion promoter first and then put four coats of primer on it.
I'll sand this smooth first and see how many gouges are left to be filled. It'll be a quicker repair this way.
I used a plastic adhesion promoter first and then put four coats of primer on it.
I'll sand this smooth first and see how many gouges are left to be filled. It'll be a quicker repair this way.
I sanded a little just to see how much the primer has filled, turned out it did quite a bit.
I'll have a little to fill here and there. This won't be some phenom bumper when done. Things like the tag reinforcements and the such cause the bumper to be a bit wavy. If I remember rightly, they were like that when they were new.
I'll have a little to fill here and there. This won't be some phenom bumper when done. Things like the tag reinforcements and the such cause the bumper to be a bit wavy. If I remember rightly, they were like that when they were new.
