89 Won’t start after filled up with gas

James1989

New Member
Sep 16, 2020
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These sentences lead me to believe that there is 'junk' in your fuel tank. Initially, it clogged the filter then was likely replaced only to push more contaminates through the new one.

More testing can certainly be done to confirm but it is beginning to sound to me like the tank needs to come out.

Once it's out of the car, it needs to be worked over inside and out. My prediction is that you're going to find a fair amount of rust inside.


My next step would be this: Disconnect the fuel lines at the rail. Run extension hoses and pump all of that fuel into gas cans.
Will do Sir, so first disconnect my fuel lines from the rail and pump the gas back into the tank?
 
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Noobz347

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Will do Sir, so first disconnect my fuel lines from the rail and pump the gas back into the tank?

Pump that gas into gas cans. Then look and see what the gas looks like and remove your new filter to see what it looks like. If there's a bunch of junk in it, then that junk is also in your injectors.
 

James1989

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Sep 16, 2020
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Will do Sir, so first disconnect my fuel lines from the rail and pump the gas back into the tank?
I don’t mean to sound dumb,
Pump that gas into gas cans. Then look and see what the gas looks like and remove your new filter to see what it looks like. If there's a bunch of junk in it, then that junk is also in your injectors.
Ok will do Sir, and not to sound dumb for asking again but do I siphon the gas from the gas tank into a gas can or from the fuel rail?
 

Noobz347

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If the fuel supply is weak when you pump it out, that will be a sign of issues too.


Ok will do Sir, and not to sound dumb for asking again but do I siphon the gas from the gas tank into a gas can or from the fuel rail?

You pump it directly from the fuel rail to the gas cans.

You will need some hose to put over the ends of the fuel lines. These hoses will need to be long enough to reach the gas can. Disconnect the fuel lines from the rail (you will need a fuel line disconnect tool for this). Attach a hose to the pressure line and run it to the gas can. Insert a jumper into the fuel pump test leads (refer to the thread General Karthief posted above for instructions) and pump the gas into the cans.

Observe what happens. It should pump a lot of gas in a hurry. Be ready to switch cans or disconnect the jumper between cans). Look at the fuel for discoloration or any solids. Inspect your new fuel filter for contaminates.

If you discover contaminates then those same contaminates are in your entire fuel system.

If this is true, the tank needs to come out, pump swapped, filter swapped, and fuel injectors removed, cleaned, and flow tested. The tank will need to be cleaned and reinstalled or replaced if it's full of rust.
 

James1989

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Sep 16, 2020
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By the way?

How long did this car sit with a partial tank of fuel in it?
Will do what you said in the last post. And to be honest my gas tank is always below halfway, I usually just put in 5 or 10 dollars in and drive until my gas light turns on then I fill it with another 5 or 10 dollars
 

James1989

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Sep 16, 2020
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Was there a period of time where it just [sat]? How long was that?
Maybe for 4-5 days at most. But I live in Houston. And a few weeks ago it did rain hard and I had to drive home and my car stalled at a red light but started right back up. And 2 days after that my gas light turned on and that’s when I finally filled up the tank all the way up and the car wouldn’t start. Had to push start it and it was still very weak and feeling like it would die
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Prime it a few times in a row. On each prime while pump is running, it should peg at 39psi.

when the pump is off, it may drop due to pump check valve issues. For now you just want to ensure you are getting 39psi with pump running.

there is also a way to trigger pump diagnostics in which the pump will run constantly even without the engine starting.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Here you go

C7A9487A-8861-4DA2-BB87-8FFB43178207.gif

locate the test connectir under the hood and jump out the black/white and tan/green wire. The fuel pump should run continuously. You should have 39 psi on the guage.

once confirmed, remove the jumper.
 
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James1989

New Member
Sep 16, 2020
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Houston
Here you go

C7A9487A-8861-4DA2-BB87-8FFB43178207.gif

locate the test connectir under the hood and jump out the black/white and tan/green wire. The fuel pump should run continuously. You should have 39 psi on the guage.

once confirmed, remove the jumper.
Will do, and a paper clip could work right? I’ll find wire if not
 

90sickfox

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Just FYI the Schrader valve on the fuel line unscrews just like a tire stem. You can use the same tool to take the valve out and put a rubber fuel hose from there to a container to drain the gas. The stem is special for fuel lines so don't loose it. A regular tire stem valve will screw in but fuel will eat the seal.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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You said the maf is plugged in but the "air duct" is not connected. You aren't taking about the rubber tube from maf to throttle body are you?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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The answers to all your questions are in the checklist I posted, you need to check your fuel pressure with a gauge, just pushing the Schrader valve to see if fuel comes out is not the way to determine fuel pressure.
You will be dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump at the very least, I'd bet on that.