U sure that's not connector grease?
Yea true I dont remeber enough off the top.of my head to say for sure cause it was about 2 years ago. I got mine from lmr as well.Yeah, in person it has a ledge to it like something was there that was snapped off, and i dont want to try pulling that piece out and damage the harness. I sent them the picture and Kris said he was going to check and see what could have happened or if its something that im supposed to remove. I just dont want to try pulling that out and get stuck with a unusable harness and money down the drain
Yea true I dont remeber enough off the top.of my head to say for sure cause it was about 2 years ago. I got mine from lmr as well.
Have you looked at fuel pressure? I chased issues like you and never thought to look at my regulator because they are set out of the box. The bbk one I bought was messed with and the pressure was dialed down way too low.Finally had a chance to mess with the car.
Realized my key on power for my electric fan had somehow gotten disconnected which caused it to overheat and thus dump coolant. When i was looking i noticed that a timing cover bolt was weeping a little bit of coolant and so was the bypass hose. I replaced the hose, and put a 195 thermostat back in the car since I had to remove the thermostat housing to reseal the timing cover bolt. I pressure checked the radiator with the car cold and it held 16lbs without issue and no more leaks.
I put the new IAC on the car and did a base idle reset. I had the car set to about 750rpms with the spout and IAC disconnected. With them hooked backup and the TPS at .98 the car would idle at 1k rpms. Not sure why it would go up that high instead of idling at 750-800. I tried the IAC in both directions.
I test drove the car and seemed to run fine, but then I started to get that sputtering while cruising and during acceleration. I have a video of it, just have to upload it off my phone and see if i can get the video to compress enough to load. When the car sputters it drops roughly 500rpm or more and will either sputter once or twice or multiple times like its misfiring. I have checked all of my sparkplug wires and they look fine, and replaced the cap and rotor with Taylor, and kept my MSD cap and rotor since that appeared to make no difference. I also installed a new ACCEL coil after talking to some friends of mine who thought it might be failing given the sputtering and the RPM drop since the tach is coil driven. That made no difference to the car.
Today i installed a new PIP sensor and fired up the car and seemed to run fine. I redid my base idle reset with the IAC flipped in the normal direction and with everything disconnected, my idle was about 750 again and with everything hooked back up its at 1k, full load the car was idling at about 1100-1200. My tps was showing 1.58 and 2.19 when i connected my multi meter to the negative terminal on the battery. But any other ground on the car shows .72, whether its on the firewall, radiator core support, or somewhere else.
I have not had a chance to drive the car yet with the new PIP installed and plan to take it for a test drive sometime between sunday and tuesday.
Have you looked at fuel pressure? I chased issues like you and never thought to look at my regulator because they are set out of the box. The bbk one I bought was messed with and the pressure was dialed down way too low.
I also noticed I get different tps voltage settings depending on my ground. If I go to the post of the battery I get a really high reading, but if I go to a ground on the body, engine or the negative cable and not the post, I get lower readings
so right Now based off of the other grounds and not the negative battery post, the TPS is set at .88