I think I am finally headed down the right road......I hope this proves to be reality and not another trick.
Today I received my clamp ac/dc fluke current meter. I clamped the alternator charge wire and the main battery cable to the fuse box in the engine compartment. I also left my multi meter on the battery to sense the voltage. Here are the results with the replacement alternator.
Idle with no accessories on:
charge wire 15-20 amps / main fuse panel wire -8amps ( - means charging battery, ie flowing from fuse box to battery)
Idle with ac/headlights on:
charge wire 50-65 amps / main fuse panel wire -5amps ( - means charging battery, ie flowing from fuse box to battery)
Idle with ac/headlights on/rear defrost:
charge wire 50-65 amps / main fuse panel wire + 0-2mps discharging (the alternator isn't keeping up)
ultimate dies in short order, the voltage ticks down until about 12.5 or so at the battery maybe 12.2 dead
---Swap back to original alternator---
Idle with no accessories on:
charge wire 15-20 amps / main fuse panel wire -8amps ( - means charging battery, ie flowing from fuse box to battery)
Idle with ac/headlights on:
charge wire 70 amps / main fuse panel wire -8amps ( - means charging battery, ie flowing from fuse box to battery)
Idle with ac/headlights on/rear defrost/radio on turned up:
charge wire 80-82 amps / main fuse panel wire + 0-1amps discharging (the alternator isn't keeping up)
ultimate dies in short order, the voltage ticks down until about 12.5 or so at the battery maybe 12.2 dead
What I noticed today. The pulley size difference was actually opposite of what i thought and a slightly larger difference than I originally thought. The replacement stock GT alternator came with a larger pulley. I originally assumed the larger pulley would make it spin faster....Duh it was opposite. The pulley on the replacement alternator is approximately Ø2.5" and the stock cobra pulley is Ø2.125". The 3/8" in diameter difference accounts for about a 15% difference in rpm. So what I am experiencing is a new alternator that is spinning about 15% slower than the original.
Just doing the basically math 15% of 65 amp ~ 10 amps. Adding 10 amps to the new alternators max amp output 65+10=75 amps. This still doesn't look like I have enough charge amperage on idle? Judging from the test with the original alternator I need at least 85-88 amps on idle running all accessories. I feel like I have been duped with the replacement alternator. It was one of the first things I replaced and I think the replacement is a pile of junk.
Next step....Try to swap the original pulley to the new alternator. If it still doesn't put out the amperage of the original I want to melt down in a forge. I also ordered a new replacement alternator. In the world of
ty parts, why does it always have to be the one you least expect???