94 Gt Build Questions

So I've got a 94 gt that I'm looking to build up with a turbo setup I've got a TFS street heat intake and have only $60 left to pay the shop for my afr 185 cc competition heads, but I'm wondering if any particular stroker takes to a turbo better (331,347,363?) Or if it's all the same on how it reacts to a turbo that way I know what block I want to purchase. As well as what would likely be the best injectors and fuel pump flow rate on this kinda set up? I do intend to go with a bigger intake but the turbo and new block are a little ways off yet
 
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I'll move this over to the appropriate section where you may get some advice.

First things first...

1. What are your intentions for the car ie. daily driver, weekend cruiser, street beast, drag car, chick magnet

2. What are your hp goals, this will determine your block choice as the stock block will be lucky to last beyond 500hp. If you're looking to go beyond that, it will require an aftermarket block from Dart, and at that point, you better have more than a few pennies saved up.

3. Spend some time looking through the build threads and see some proven combos. There's lots of experience around here, and we'll all help push you in the right direction. Alot of what you end up with will come down to how deep your pockets are
 
Alrighty thank you
I am definitely going to need a dart block I just didn't know if how the engine is stroked affects how it behaves with boosted applications.

I'm looking for somewhere around 1,000 hp

if at all possible be able to "safely" take it on the road from time to time, I basically just don't want to trailer it to events when it's finished.

And I already know that this will take me a couple years to "complete" I'm expecting to spend around 15-20 k maybe a little less maybe more.. just depends on how much the right parts cost and how much I can do myself. And thank you for the input
 
15-20k will get the engine/turbo put together but you're going to be a long way from done. Good long block will cost 12-15 alone. As far as the best sized motor to make that level of power goes...just make sure you use the bigger bore for unshrouding the valves(4.125" or bigger). This will result in a 347(big bore with a 3.25" stroke crank) or a 363(which is the same bore with a 3.40" crank). The turbo sizing is going to determine the power level more so than anything else(and the proper fuel system,tuning devise-standalone computer system,etc etc). 1000 hp is an unrealistic goal unless you have some deep pockets. You still have to address the chassis,brakes,transmission,wheels and tires, etc to be able to even think about it. You're talking a 50k build.
 
I was talking about just the motor/turbo for the 15-20k any recommendations for a tuner? I've seen some talk about the tweecer but currently just have an sct chip, and I do need some advice on which transmission can handle that kind of power, but I am planning a full rework of all chassis and suspension components, I did upgrade the brakes, but when I get close to around 350 hp mark I'm probably going to go to a better set up. like I said by no means a short term project I'm expecting to be working on this for a couple years but I just want to make sure it gets done right the first time and thank you for the input on bore size it is much appreciated
 
With big turbo power I recommend a good automatic trans. Freddy Brown AOD with the right converter would be my recommendation. If going manual you're probably looking at a T56 magnum with a twin disc clutch. If you're really going for big power I highly recommend an aftermarket standalone computer like the Holley,Big Stuff3,etc. The megasquirt/tweecer/etc route is doable but don't work as well. They tend to have some problems with keeping up with the fuel and ignition demands of such a build. If you stay below 600 or so hp then the MS/tweecer/chip will work with a good dyno tuners ability to tune. If you are going all the way up to around 1000hp you're going to need at least some 120#inj(I'm to lazy to look up the math) and anything above about 60-80# inj are problematic with any stock electronics.