95 mustang GT ABS Sensor and or Module

Long story short, my car got backed up into on the driver side front fender. ABS light came on. Got the body fixed but now the abs light is still on. Took it to my mechanic...he said that when he plugged it in to his diagnostics computer, it read not communicating or something to that nature. He then recommended me to take it to Ford and then Ford tells me the same thing. No way of knowing if its the wheel sensor or the module. So they didn't really want to work on it because of them having to check all the wiring. Anyway today I tried to lock up the brakes and I couldn't get them to lock. Im thinking the abs system is working, but why would my light still be on. If someone can look at a wiring diagram to be able to tell me if the light could be on even though the sensors are working...limiting the problem to be with the module and or its wiring and not the speed sensors. In essence, could the abs light turn on even though there is no problem with the sensors?
 
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Zero_chance

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Did you try pulling codes with the ABS light? Theres a half million write ups on how to do it. I have codes 61 and 63 and my light sometimes comes on sometimes doesnt but my wheels still didnt lock up in the one emergancy stop I made with the light on.
 
abs update

Well now I guess since I drove the car and warmed up the brakes...the abs light is on and I was able to lock the brakes. When I took it to ford they said they got a code that meant that there was "no communication" like my abs module is bad or there its not being grounded. I think there is a bad sensor since my car was hit in the front driverside recently. The car is repaired but the light is still on. When they tried to diagnose the problem they were unable to communicate with the module to either tell them that the module is bad or that the sensor is bad or both. Oh and the front abs sensors are obsolete so if anyone has one they want to sell or if they have all of them including a module I'd like to know. I need a Front LH (driverside) sensor. Has anyone else run into this problem. I don't simply want to get rid of abs because I know how useful they are in an emergency stop situation. Not all of us are professional race car drivers.
 

Zero_chance

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If you got hit in the front, Im pretty sure the hydraulic control unit is up front. You might want to take a look around, I believe its down low on the passenger side of the radiator. Look for broken wires, cracks, etc. Im surprised how many people come back with stories of bringing vehicles to dealerships and only getting a reply of "no communication with the module." Thats a pretty piss poor answer and whatever tech and / or service manager that let you walk away with that as an answer should be fired. They shouldve found the reason theres no communication and told you what would need to be done to fix it. They give the rest of the good dealerships a bad name.
 
abs.

Okay I checked up front and there is nothing wrong that I can notice, but then again I am not a mechanic. I will look again. Is there a way to know if there is a leak or something I should look. I mean I swear the dealer didn't even want to even look at it. It was there for two days in which I visited the car both days. It was seemed like they wanted to jerk me off and allow me to get frustrated enough to just take the car off their hands. I mean it sucks because my abs worked fine before I was hit. I just had the car repainted too like 3 months ago and this happened a month ago. I mean what is a guy suppose to do when I don't know everything about my car and the FORD dealer hasn't a clue or say they don't. I was hit in the driverside, like I said with you guys that know is it possible to damage the hcu on the passenger side, or damage the lines? Are the lines hard like copper or rubber? If one the driverside was pushed could this brake a line and lead to damaging the HCU? Or could it have shorted out the module. I just feel helpless at this point. Ford told me that there could be something wrong with the module...now could they have been able to rule or rule out the HCU by just a visual inspection? What else could they have figured out without the use of the module to diagnose?
 

Zero_chance

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It is possible for a wire that may be routed along the driverside fenderwell to have gotten broken and overlooked in an accident that hit the driver side. I dont have a wiring diagram handy so I cant tell you one hundred percent if the wiring for it runs on that side. Obviously a likely candidate would be the sensor on the side that got hit. But its not always a guarantee and Id hate to see you spend money on unnecessary parts. Any good dealer would have found the cause for the non communication, fixed it and then pulled the codes or at least found what needed to be fixed in order for the codes to be pulled and then checked to see if you wanted them to proceed. If I ever told my service writer or manager that there was no communication and couldnt figure it out theyd have someone that could figure it out get on it. Not just tell you that and send you on your way. The problem is that a lot of newer techs and even some of the older techs have gotten lazy. With the advent of OBD II, diagnosing got a lot easier. Just hook up the scanner and you can do a ton more now with PIDS, Active Command, etc than you ever could with EEC IV. Try testing the system yourself using the ABS light to flash the codes. All you have to do is go under your hood and find the ABS test connector. Its one the driver side, forward of the shock tower. Youll see a black box labeled power distribution box or something to that affect. Mounted on the front of that box is a little red clip that says anti lock test. Remove it by pushing the black tab down from the red cap and underneath youll find a pyramid shaped connector (black connector with 3 wires). With the ignition off, jumper a small length of wire or a paper clip from circuit 57 (ground) into circuit 836 (diag circuit). The ground circuit is the black wire, the diag circuit is orange with a white tracer. With the wire or clip stuck into those two ports of the connector and left there, go back into the car and turn the ignition on but dont start. THe ABS light will start to flash. Keep note of how many flashes there are, so you might want to have pen and paper handy. A code 63 like my car has will flash 6 times, pause for a second or two then flash 3 times. Then if theres more codes therell be a longer pause, then more flashing. Keep track of all of them, even if you think the codes are repeating. Once you have the codes, then we can try and figure out the problem. I have the list of all possible codes the system can output and the accompanying pinpoint tests so let me know what the codes are and hopefully well get you some answers.
 

Zero_chance

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I just popped the hood on my car. Same year as yours. In any case I followed the wiring harness that leaves the HCU and right above the unit it Ts off in both directions. It goes over the top of the radiator and underneath the battery tray on the drivers side so theres a very good possibility that a wire in that harness got pinched or broken. My car was previously hit in drivers side and my codes 61 and 63 are for power supply interruptions to the HCU. ANd like I said its intermittent so Im a very good candidate for a partially broken wire that sometimes makes contact and shuts the light off. I wouldnt be surprised if you have a very similar problem. I just dont have the motivation to rip the wiring harnesses apart and find it after I spend 8 hours doing it on everyone elses car at work.
 

Zero_chance

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34 =Left rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault . So looks to be a problem with the drivers rear sensor. Probably a brake in the wire if its a continuity problem. Let me know if you have a multimeter and I can tell you what the resistances should be buit Id say replacing the rear sensor would be a likely fix. Youll have to check out the rear tone ring too for any cracks. I guarantee what the tech did at the dealership you brought it to was try to use the OBD II test port thats under the dash, not even realizing that the car isnt a 96 and the plug is non functional. Doesnt speak very highly of that place...
 
abs

Yeah I remember he was under the dash and hooked in there. Okay what if it did this....last night I tried it again. I got the paper clip in....turned the key. the abs light came on for a half a second....then blinked three times...pause....then blinked 4 times...then went off then came back on and stayed on....untill I turned the key back and turned it forward again. What I mean is could the 4 blinks be construed as 5 blinks or does it do the blinks pause then stay on?
 

Zero_chance

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No, the light will remain on after its done spitting out the codes. The only codes that start with 3 are 33 (left front sensor continuity) and 34 (left rear sensor continuity). Then it goes to the forties for the right side. So the problem lies within the left rear sensor and / or wiring for the sensor.
As far as the tech that tried to hook in under the dash.. well hes a retard.. the eec test connector for these cars is under the hood and you need a super star tester, or NGS. Was it a younger tech by any chance? People like that are why a lot of people shy away from dealer service. Im only 25, only been in the business 3 years but even I know how to test the older cars.
 

Zero_chance

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Also, just to clarify, I mean driver side when I say left. Some people assume left of the vehicle as if theyre standing in front of it looking at the car. Left and right are always from the point of view as if you were sitting in the driver seat. Im sure you knew that but some people dont and Ive seen people replace things on the wrong side after they were told the left and then replaced a passenger side component. :nono:
 
abs LH (REAR)

Yeah I gotcha. I appreciate the heads up though. Driverside (LH). Well okay then...now suppose it was two sensors that were bad what kind of code would that show? Okay but for now its the Rear (LH). Thanks man.
 

Zero_chance

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Actually I made a mistake in reading the codes as far as the 30 series and 40 series. Heres the entire list of possible codes. 34 is still for the LR sensor continuity but I thought the 30 series codes were for left side and 40 series codes were for right.
12 System OK No faults noted. Go to Pinpoint Test D.
19 Anti-lock control module Go to Pinpoint Test D.
22 Right front valve Go to Pinpoint Test A1.
24 Left front valve Go to Pinpoint Test A2.
26 Rear ABS valve Go to Pinpoint Test A3.
31 Right front anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B1.
32 Right rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B4.
33 Left front anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B7.
34 Left rear anti-lock brake sensor continuity fault Go to Pinpoint Test B10.
41 Right front anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C1.
42 Right rear anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C3.
43 Left front anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C5.
44 Left rear anti-lock brake sensor Go to Pinpoint Test C7.
61 Pump motor/pump motor relay fault Go to Pinpoint Test D.
63 Voltage supply interruption Go to Pinpoint Test D.
69 Vehicle battery voltage less than 10 volts Go to Pinpoint Test D.
78 Anti-lock brake sensor frequency fault

ANd heres the pinpoint test for the code you have

B10 DTC 34: CHECK LEFT REAR BRAKE ANTI-LOCK SENSOR
Disconnect 16-pin connector on jumper from ABS assembly to wire harness.
Measure resistance between Pins 1 and 6 on wire harness side connector.
Is resistance between 2187 and 2673 ohms?
Yes
GO to B12 .

No
GO to B11 .


B11 CHECK LEFT REAR BRAKE ANTI-LOCK SENSOR
Disconnect left rear rear brake anti-lock sensor from wire harness.
Measure resistance between Pins 1 and 2 on sensor connector.




Is resistance between 2187 and 2673 ohms?
Yes
SERVICE or REPLACE cable harness Circuit 496 or 499.

No
REPLACE left rear brake anti-lock sensor .


B12 CHECK CIRCUITS 499 (GY/BK) AND 496 (O) AT JUMPER HARNESS
Disconnect jumper harness from anti-lock brake control module .
Check for broken or damaged wire in jumper between Pin 1 (16-pin side) and Pin 13 (15-pin side) or between Pin 6 (16-pin side) and Pin 5 (15-pin side).
Are both wires OK?
Yes
If light is on all the time, REPLACE anti-lock brake control module .

No
SERVICE or REPLACE broken or damaged wire in jumper.
 

Chythar

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Yeah I remember he was under the dash and hooked in there. Okay what if it did this....last night I tried it again. I got the paper clip in....turned the key. the abs light came on for a half a second....then blinked three times...pause....then blinked 4 times...then went off then came back on and stayed on....untill I turned the key back and turned it forward again. What I mean is could the 4 blinks be construed as 5 blinks or does it do the blinks pause then stay on?
Oh man. Two mechanics that didn't know that the OBDII connector under the GT's dash is NOT USED for the GT and Cobra? It's only hooked up for the V6. The GT and Cobra are OBDI units, which have their hookups next to the passenger shock tower.

FYI, Ford tried to save money by having the same dash assembly for the V6, GT and Cobra. That's why the connector is there on the GT and Cobra.
 

Zero_chance

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No, only one mechanic that didnt know that was the wrong spot. I told him exactly where the EEC connector and ABS connector were. Unless youre talking about two techs on his end of the scenario.
 

go-stang5.0

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Good stuff.....I'm in the process of fixing my ABS...I bought the car without rear sensors years ago and I'm gonna replace those...but its nice to know I can diagnose it if I have any other unforseen problems with the system.

One more question Zero_chance....as far as clearing the codes, is there a way to do this. Are they even stored? Or does the abs module check everything each time you turn on the ignition? Basically, I want to install new rear sensors and clear any previous codes so I can see if theres anything still wrong that I have to fix.

P.S. I think this should be stickied....
 

Zero_chance

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Go-stang, the ABS light only flashes the on demand codes, which is any error that is currently occuring. IF you replaced the sensors and the remainder of the system is good, the light will go off and stay off. Its basically a go, no go check. The light wont stay illuminated for a code that was in the system previously but never actually physically cleared. As long as the self check of the ABS system passes, it will stay off. However, if its on, its always a good idea to pull the codes even if you think you know the exact problem. That way if you fix it and the light stays on you wont be chasing your tail. Always best to go in a with a full head of knowledge.
 

reddy351

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Zero...why can't you be the tech at one of my local dealers? Sounds like you have a pretty good head on your shoulders and are in the game for more than just a paycheck. :Word: Way to go! :nice: (I still wouldn'tt ake it there. But it'd be nice to know there was good help, if I needed it.)
 

go-stang5.0

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ok I see..so self check is done on every startup and there are no stored codes to worry about.

Just a thought...that would make the ABS system completely independent of the engine cpu on our cars right?

Mods...sticky this bad boy:D .