Another "cranks but no start" thread.

Bill Cool

Previously 87MustangGT
Founding Member
Nov 18, 1999
1,265
1
39
Seymour, CT
See this post for some brief history on my car.

Following the "no crank" checklist, I got her cranking again. Now I'm going through the "cranks no start" checklist, and am at an impasse.

My battery is good (12.8-13v)

Solenoid and starter are good
- starter cranks when big solenoid terminals are jumped with Blue/Red wire attached
- starter cranks when big solenoid terminals are jumped with Blue/Red wire detached
- starter cranks when battery-side terminal and Blue/Red wire terminal are jumped with B/R wire detached

Test light held across coil terminals flashes when key held to START...so I assume TFI module is good.

Two coils tested - one junkyard, one new BWD (old coil was an MSD Blaster).

Noid light on #1 injector blinked when key held to START...so I assume PIP is good.

I've also checked that the rotor is in fact rotating when the engine is cranked.


My problem is, when holding the dizzy end of the coil wire near the headers and jumping the starter solenoid terminals (Blue/Red wire attached, key in ON position), I only get a very thin spark. Everything I've been reading says I should see a big fat spark...but mine looks as if you drew a line with a pencil.

Similarly, when I pull the #1 plug wire off the plug and jump the solenoid terminals, I get no spark in that plug wire. I've held the wire next to the block (thinking I might see an arcing spark like w/the coil wire) and looked directly into the boot, but see no spark in either case.

This makes me think the spark I'm seeing from the coil really is crappy, and isn't giving the dist cap enough juice. Should I really be seeing a big 3/8" spark coming off the coil wire when holding the end near the header/block intersection? If so, I am not...so what next?


Today I replaced the cap and rotor (Accel pieces) and wires (Autolite - whatever AutoZone had in stock). Haven't replaced the plugs yet, or even pulled any. These changes had no effect on the amount of spark I'm seeing.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Also, tried pulling codes (keep in mind, the battery has been disconnected at least 20 times over the past week or two) and the test light simply stayed on constantly - no blinking.

I have 12.5v at the red injector wire with the key ON.
I the only reading I can get from the TPS's black (I don't have a Blk/Wht) and green wires is 0.08v (key ON)! I tried moving the TPS back and forth, and could only get between 0.01-0.08v; tried grounding the DVM to the battery as well, same result. Dumb question, but is this indicative of a bad TPS? If I understand correctly (trying to recall knowledge from years ago), TPS <0.5 will cause the computer to not start the car.
 
Sounds like either you aren't getting a full 12 volts at the red wire on the ignition coil, or have a bad TFI. I would say the coil was suspect, but the odds of having two bad coils are rather low.

Look for 12 volts at the red/blue wire on the TFI module while the engine is cranking using the ignition switch. No 12 volts and you have a bad ignition switch, wiring problem or a bad connection.


Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.


Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that next. Will 12v show only while cranking with the key, or can I check while jumping the solenoid terminals as well? I've got no extra set of hands right now :(
 
You'll need the extra hands...

In order for the test to work just as it would if you normally start the car, you need to use the key to try and start it.
 
You might want to use a spark tester or an old but clean plug for the spark testing. This helps remove variables.

I'd want to test the rest of the TPS wiring. You want to ensure there is not an issue with VREF or sig-return circuits.
 
OK, so I've got about 8v at the red/blue wire while cranking, and 10-11v at the red/green wire while cranking. Neither reading was "constant" - the voltage slowly, erratically, climbed up to the 8 or 11v on each crank. Next test is on the red/white (or pink/white?) wire at the ign switch inside the steering column right? Should have 12v while cranking? This car did sit in an outdoor garage for five years - I know mice were inside it. I have to think it's a mechanical failure of some kind though, and not a chewed through wire...two weeks ago the car was cranked and fired up multiple times in a 5-day period. Occasionally needed the assistance of the gas pedal, but I attributed that to gummed up injectors/pump. I would think a chewed wire would've been evident from the beginning...unless it was just on the edge of being severed, and driving the car a little bit frayed that last thread that was hanging on...
You might want to use a spark tester or an old but clean plug for the spark testing. This helps remove variables.

I'd want to test the rest of the TPS wiring. You want to ensure there is not an issue with VREF or sig-return circuits.
I'll try to pick up a spark tester from AutoZone tomorrow. I don't fully understand the second part of your post though - I suppose the rest of the TPS wiring is laid out in one of the links JR posted, but what are VREF and sig-return? Signal return? From the TPS?
 
The VREF is the +5 volts from the computer. It supplies power to the MAP, EGR, and TPS sensors.

As with all checklist procedures, start at the top and work your way down. Do not skip any steps, as the results of the next test depend on the last test having completed satisfactorily

attachment.php

Theory of how it works:
The computer supplies 5 volt VREF to power 3 sensors. They are the TPS, EGR and MAP/BARO sensors. The use of a tightly regulated voltage insures that all sensors are accurate over a wide range of operating temperatures. Note that the VREF orange/white wire supplies two engine mounted sensors (TPS & EGR) and one firewall mounted sensor (MAP/BARO sensor). VREF also powers all the electronics inside the computer.

Tools needed:
DVM with good batteries. Know the difference between voltage (volts) and resistance (ohms) and how to measure them with your DVM. Make sure you know how to read voltages and resistances with you meter. Some DVM’s auto range and others require you to select the range. Be sure you understand the range selection process if your DVM does not auto range. Do not touch the probe tips while making resistance measurements. If you do, your measurements will be very wrong.

Two or three big safety pins. You may need them to probe the electrical connector plugs from the rear. Keep in mind that it may require some effort to make good connections to use your DVM. Flaky or intermittent connections can lead you down the wrong path.
#2 Philips screwdriver
¼” flat blade screwdriver.
5/16” socket
¼ drive ratchet
3” long 1/4 “ extension.
3/8” ratchet
10 MM deep socket or 10 mm socket & 3” extension.

Getting started:
Verify that VREF is good:


1.) The fist step is to dump the codes: if one of the sensors is shorting VREF to ground, you will get codes 22 (MAP/BARO sensor), 63 (TPS sensor), and 31 or 32 (EGR sensor). You will get all the codes if VREF is shorted to ground, not just one or two of them.
2.) The next step is to determine which sensor is causing the low VREF voltage.

A.) All sensors connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
Locate the MAP/BARO sensor on the firewall behind the upper intake manifold. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire.

B.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 5. If it is over 5.5 volts, go to step 7

C.) If the voltage is less that 1 volt, turn off the ignition switch and ground the DVM or meter negative lead to the battery post. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine. Recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the signal ground to the MAP/BARO sensor is bad.

D.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the electrical connector from the MAP/BARO sensor. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine and recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the MAP/BARO sensor is bad. Time to replace the sensor. You will find that you will get a code 22 if the MAP/BARO sensor is bad. Leave the MAP/BARO sensor disconnected until the other sensors have been tested.

E.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the electrical connector from the MAP/BARO sensor. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine and recheck the voltage readings.

3.) TPS sensor connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
The TPS is mounted on the top side of the throttle body. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire

A.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 4 to check VREF on the EGR sensor.

B.) If the voltage is less that 1 volt, turn off the ignition switch and ground the DVM or meter negative lead to the battery post. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine and recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the signal ground to the TPS sensor is bad.

C.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS sensor. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine. Recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the TPS sensor is bad. Time to replace the sensor.

D.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, Leave the TPS sensor disconnected until the other sensors have been tested. Then go to step 4

4.) EGR sensor connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
The EGR is mounted on the back side of the EGR valve. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire

A.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 5.

B.) If the voltage is less that 1 volt, turn off the ignition switch and ground the DVM or meter negative lead to the battery post. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine and recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the signal ground to the EGR sensor is bad.

C.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the electrical connector from the EGR sensor. Turn the ignition switch to the Run position but do not start the engine. Recheck the voltage readings. If the voltage reads 4.5 to 5.5 volts, the VREF is good and the EGR sensor is bad. Time to replace the sensor.

D.) If the voltage is still below 4.5 volts, go to step 5 to check for wiring faults.

5.) VREF less that 4.5 volts with all sensors disconnected or VREF OK only at MAP/BARO sensor:
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Measure the resistance between pin 26 on the computer and the orange/white wires on the MAP/BARO, TPS and EGR sensors. You should see less that 1.5 ohms on each of the orange/white wires and pin 26. More than that indicates wiring problem.

Computer wiring harness connecter as viewed from the pin side.
eec04.gif


The 10 pin connectors that join the engine fuel injector harness to the main harness are prime suspects.

Notice that pin 2 on the White connector is VREF. If this pin has a bad connection or broken wire, both the TPS and EGR will have no or low VREF voltage. A high resistance on only one wire is an indication of a broken wire or bad connection inside the fuel injector wiring harness. Cleaning the pins and making sure they mate tightly is a good thing to do. Use a jeweler's screwdriver to scrape the pins clean and reform the female socket so that it fits tightly around the male pin.

harness02.gif




If the above resistance test passes, move the meter lead from pin 26 to the ground point next to the computer. Then measure the resistance between the orange/white wire on any of the sensors and ground. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit. Reconnect the sensors and the computer, reconnect the battery negative cable to the battery.

6.) At this point, you have verified that all the sensors that use VREF have the proper supply voltage. If you still do not have proper VREF, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same codes 22 (MAP/BARO sensor), 63 (TPS sensor), and 31 or 32 (EGR sensor). All the codes should have cleared unless you have some faulty sensors.

7.) VREF exceeds 5.5 volts:
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Pull the wiring harness connector down so that it disconnects from the computer. Then measure the resistance between the orange/white wire on any of the sensors and pin 1. Then measure the resistance between the orange/white wire on any of the sensors and pin 37. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit in both cases. Less than 1 Megohm indicates a wiring problem.
If the resistance check is good, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same high voltage readings. If you do, then your DVM may be whacko…

VREF is verified as good, sensor output is still low:
8.) One or more sensors get a low output voltage code (63 - TPS sensor, or 31 or 32 - EGR sensor). After you have replaced the sensor and are still getting a low voltage code or low voltage reading, it is time to go hunting. By completing steps 1-7, you have verified that you have good VREF and it is not a cause of your problem.
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Pull the wiring harness connector down so that it disconnects from the computer.

Make sure that the TPS & EGR sensors are disconnected while performing the following tests. If you don't disconnect them, you will get incorrect measurements.

A.) TPS sensor: measure the resistance between the TPS green/lt green wire and pin 47. You should see less than 1.5 ohms. More than that indicates a wiring problem. Then measure the resistance between the green/lt green wire on the TPS sensor and ground. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit.
Adjust the TPS sensor as follows:
Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy. Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems. Put the safety pins in the Dark Green/Lt green wire and Black/White wire. Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running.

B.) EGR sensor: measure the resistance between the EGR brown/lt green wire and pin 27. You should see less than 1.5 ohms. More than that indicates a wiring problem. Then measure the resistance between the brown /lt green wire on the EGR sensor and ground. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit.

C.) If both the above tests pass, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same low voltage readings. If you do, then your DVM may be whacko…
 
OK, new findings: - using a spark tester, I verified that I DO have spark at the #1 wire! - VREF voltage is 5.09/5.09/5.08v at MAP/TPS/EGR! - max TPS voltage is 0.10. No matter how I move the TPS, I can't get it any higher than that. - TFI readings when key in RUN position. ---Blue 0.15v ---Yellow 0.15v ---Rd/Blu 0.09v ---Rd/Grn 11.76v ---Gr/Yel 12.00v ---Blk/Wht 0.08v Next steps: 1) get a can of starter fluid (Crank No Start list #3)... 2) Test ignition switch in steering column. ...but I'm still baffled as to why I can't get the TPS to read any type of reasonable voltage. Are there any other tests to check if the TPS is bad (aside from buying a new one)? Maybe I'll just pick one up tmrw w/the starting fluid...
 
TPS Troubleshooting:

The TPS sensor is a variable resistor like the volume control on most cheap radios. We have all heard them make scratchy noises as you turn them up or down. The carbon element can wear and cause a drop out spot in the output voltage. This confuses the computer because it expects to see a steady TPS voltage increase as the Throttle opens up.

Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

TPS troubleshooting steps:
1.) Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.
Use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage. Setting the TPS: you'll need a good Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job. Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy. Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems.
2.) Use an analog voltmeter to check the voltage on the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to make sure that it increases smoothly and doesn’t drop out or increase suddenly.

Some basic checks you can make to be sure that the sensor is getting power & ground:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery cable. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.

The following power on check requires you to turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or EGR sensors. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
 
Did you do the testing at the bottom of JR's long post (just above yours)?

If you disconnect the TPS, you could ohm it out to see if the resistance changes with position/displacement. If not, the TPS itself is probably bad.

Good luck.

EDIT: Jrichker posted while I typed.
 
I did not do the testing (computer-to-TPS) at the bottom of JR's post, because I turned the 10mm bolt holding the computer's wiring harness on for 5 minutes and it never backed out (yes, I was turning lefty-loosey!). I did not check the resistance between the MAP/BARO ground and the TPS ground, or TPS ground and battery ground. Will do that tomorrow...
If you disconnect the TPS, you could ohm it out to see if the resistance changes with position/displacement. If not, the TPS itself is probably bad.

Disconnect the TPS, as in, unplug the connector...if so, then how do i check the resistance? Green wire and black wire on the sensor side, while it's still attached to the throttle body?
 
I did not do the testing (computer-to-TPS) at the bottom of JR's post, because I turned the 10mm bolt holding the computer's wiring harness on for 5 minutes and it never backed out (yes, I was turning lefty-loosey!). I did not check the resistance between the MAP/BARO ground and the TPS ground, or TPS ground and battery ground. Will do that tomorrow...

Disconnect the TPS, as in, unplug the connector...if so, then how do i check the resistance? Green wire and black wire on the sensor side, while it's still attached to the throttle body?

You are correct about the TPS resistance testing.

The computer connector will need to be pulled downward away from the computer once the 10 MM bolt is loose.
 
Flipping fuel pump isn't priming now. I have voltage on both sides of the inertia switch, but no voltage where I tested at the relay. I wired in a kill switch at the relay years ago...and no one carries the actual relay...so I need to check my wiring and/or find a known working relay to plug in there... ::sigh:: Another ::sigh:: moment - I installed a new TPS today, and got the same voltage (no higher than 0.08). I tried testing the resistance across the black and green wires with both TPS's unplugged, and my DVM just read &quot;1 &quot; - so basically that means nothing to me. Gonna try to grab my dad's analog meter and see what that says...
 
Got the fuel pump working again (my mistake), but I'm at a loss guys... Here are the results of the checklist:
Getting started:
Verify that VREF is good:


1.) The fist step is to dump the codes: if one of the sensors is shorting VREF to ground, you will get codes 22 (MAP/BARO sensor), 63 (TPS sensor), and 31 or 32 (EGR sensor). You will get all the codes if VREF is shorted to ground, not just one or two of them.
Codes don't exist - the car hasn't run in 2-4 weeks, and I disconnect the battery whenever it's parked b/c something drawing on it.

2.) The next step is to determine which sensor is causing the low VREF voltage.

A.) All sensors connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
Locate the MAP/BARO sensor on the firewall behind the upper intake manifold. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire.
All installed and connected correctly.

B.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 5. If it is over 5.5 volts, go to step 7
5.09V

3.) TPS sensor connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
The TPS is mounted on the top side of the throttle body. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire
All installed and connected correctly.

A.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 4 to check VREF on the EGR sensor.
5.09V

4.) EGR sensor connected and installed correctly. Ignition off:
The EGR is mounted on the back side of the EGR valve. Insert one safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the black/white wire is connected. Insert another safety pin in the rear of the electrical connector where the orange/white wire is connected. Make sure the safety pins do not touch each other or metal parts of the body or engine. Connect the DVM or meter to the safety pins. If your meter is polarity sensitive, be sure that it is connected correctly: positive to the orange/white wire, negative to the black/white wire
All installed and connected correctly.

A.) Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the engine. Note the voltage: it should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is within range, go to step 5.
5.08V

5.) VREF less that 4.5 volts with all sensors disconnected or VREF OK only at MAP/BARO sensor:
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Measure the resistance between pin 26 on the computer and the orange/white wires on the MAP/BARO, TPS and EGR sensors. You should see less that 1.5 ohms on each of the orange/white wires and pin 26. More than that indicates wiring problem.
Did not complete this test, since all VREF were >4.5v

6.) At this point, you have verified that all the sensors that use VREF have the proper supply voltage. If you still do not have proper VREF, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same codes 22 (MAP/BARO sensor), 63 (TPS sensor), and 31 or 32 (EGR sensor). All the codes should have cleared unless you have some faulty sensors.
I'll try to find a known-good computer nearby to borrow...

7.) VREF exceeds 5.5 volts:
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Pull the wiring harness connector down so that it disconnects from the computer. Then measure the resistance between the orange/white wire on any of the sensors and pin 1. Then measure the resistance between the orange/white wire on any of the sensors and pin 37. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit in both cases. Less than 1 Megohm indicates a wiring problem.
If the resistance check is good, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same high voltage readings. If you do, then your DVM may be whacko…
Tested orange white on TPS to pins 1 and 37, and both were infinite open.

VREF is verified as good, sensor output is still low:
8.) One or more sensors get a low output voltage code (63 - TPS sensor, or 31 or 32 - EGR sensor). After you have replaced the sensor and are still getting a low voltage code or low voltage reading, it is time to go hunting. By completing steps 1-7, you have verified that you have good VREF and it is not a cause of your problem.
Disconnect the battery negative cable at the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then loosen the 10 MM hex bolt that secures the computer wiring harness connector to the computer. Pull the wiring harness connector down so that it disconnects from the computer.

Make sure that the TPS & EGR sensors are disconnected while performing the following tests. If you don't disconnect them, you will get incorrect measurements.

A.) TPS sensor: measure the resistance between the TPS green/lt green wire and pin 47. You should see less than 1.5 ohms. I got 0.2 ohms.More than that indicates a wiring problem. Then measure the resistance between the green/lt green wire on the TPS sensor and ground. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit.I got an infinite open circuit.

Adjust the TPS sensor as follows:
Set the TPS voltage at .5- 1.1 range. Because of the variables involved with the tolerances of both computer and DVM, I would shoot for somewhere between .6 and 1.0 volts. Unless you have a Fluke or other high grade DVM, the second digit past the decimal point on cheap DVM’s is probably fantasy. Since the computer zeros out the TPS voltage every time it powers up, playing with the settings isn't an effective aid to performance or drivability. The main purpose of checking the TPS is to make sure it isn't way out of range and causing problems. Put the safety pins in the Dark Green/Lt green wire and Black/White wire. Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running.
I cannot get my TPS to read any higher than 0.12v today; and that's only when I ground out to the battery. When grounding out to the black TPS wire, I only get 0.02v

B.) EGR sensor: measure the resistance between the EGR brown/lt green wire and pin 27. You should see less than 1.5 ohms. More than that indicates a wiring problem. Then measure the resistance between the brown /lt green wire on the EGR sensor and ground. You should see greater than 1 Megohm or an infinite open circuit.
I got 0.03 ohm at pin 27, infinite open at ground.

C.) If both the above tests pass, then the problem is inside the computer. This is a replace the computer with a known good unit and retest to see if you get the same low voltage readings. If you do, then your DVM may be whacko…



Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector (small red/blue wire) from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch to the Run position. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
I do get a spark. Not fat, but a blue spark.

No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
I've got flashing.
D.) Coil
Brand new.
E.) No ECC or computer power - ECC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
I've got 12v.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
Note: fuses or fuse links blow for a reason. Don’t replace either a fuse or fuse link with one with a larger rating than stock. Doing so invites an electrical fire.
Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes.
I haven't done this yet!
H.) Missing or loose computer power ground. The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness
I.) Computer.
J.) Bad or missing secondary power ground. It is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Feels good, clean, tight.
K.) Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position. Crank the engine & when it fires off, pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI. No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.
Haven't done this yet actually...

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:

I have spark.
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
Was dry
B.) Distributor cap
Replaced
C.) Rotor
Replaced
D.) Spark Plug wires
Replaced
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
Get spark, but not a fat spark.

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Car starts with ether, but immediately dies. This is a MAF-converted car.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground. The EEC connector is near the wiper motor and LH hood hinge.
Fuel pump primes OK.

If the relay & inertia switch are OK they are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Fuel doesn't "squirt" out, but pours out rather quickly. If you have any doubts about having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store. That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure. I can't get my AutoZone-rented guage to depress the Schraeder valve enough.


4.) No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch OK
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.OK
C.) Clogged fuel filter New, but could be clogged I Suppose.
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) 86-90 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay. How do I know if it's blown, the link doesn't appear to open at all?
F.) Engine seem to load up on fuel and may have black smoke at the tailpipe. Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running. If fuel is coming out the vacuum port, the regulator has failed. Check the regulator vacuum line for fuel too. Disconnect it from the engine and blow air though it. If you find gas, the regulator has failed. No fuel in either instance.

5.) Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.
A.) The PIP sensor in the distributor tells the computer when to fire the injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed.
A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector circuit to see if the injectors are firing. The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and try to start the engine: it will flash if the injector is firing. Noid light blinks as it should.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too. I don't have any old injectors...
D.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on. Have 12v.
G.) TPS voltage exceeds 3.7 volts with the throttle closed. This will shut off the injectors, since the computer uses this strategy to clear a flooded engine. Use a DVM, a pair of safety pins, and probe the black/white and green wires to measure the TPS voltage.
It should be .5-.1.0 volts with the key on, engine not running. Note that if the black/white wire (signal ground) has a bad connection, you will get some strange readings. Make a second measurement using the battery post as the ground to eliminate any ground problems. If the readings are different by more than 5%, you may have a high resistance condition in the black/white signal ground circuit.
Can't get TPS over 0.08-0.12v.

6.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
A.) Failed IAB or improperly set base idle (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car. See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. Car won't start even w/1/4 throttle.
.

Thoughts? My to-do list now, as I see it, is (1) to find a known good A9L computer and swap it for mine, and try setting the TPS and/or starting the car. Does this really sound like a computer problem? (2) check ignition switch, and (3) check the push-on coil wire while cranking.

:(