Brakes Wearing out fast????

GreyStang2000

New Member
Apr 12, 2005
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Hi guys....need some advise. Jst replaced my front brakes and rotors and the brakes are wearing out super fast. my rims are black within a matter of weeks. Also the right side is wearing out faster then the left for some odd reason. Changed the brakes a month ago and the right set is half gone. Any idea why they are wearing out so fast?..and why one side is going faster? Could they be cheap brake pads? They had a set at the parts place for $30 and one for $80. Got the $30 set.....could it just be cheap brakes. Anyone had this similar prob?
Thanks,
Rog
 
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The Rotors are brand new as well. Can't remember the brand of brakes but they claimed to be OEM. Just find a big price diference between $30 a set and $80 a set. The brakes didn't wear out that fast with the old rotors/brakes. Wouldn't air in the lines just make my brake peddle soft? How would that cause uneven ware. No pulling to the right when I break. Only thing I notic is sometime I get a small vibration when I break (side to side) and other times its smoooth. Really weird. I greases the sliders on the calipers too. Could the piston be sized on the right side?
Thanks again guys!
Rog
 
You get what you pay for with breakpads. I think ford put motorcraft in out of the factory, probably what you should have replaced with. $30 bucks won't by front and back motorcrafts unless you are getting a REAL good deal.
 
if you get air in one side it may not press as hard as it will on the other side. that would cause uneven wear.

however, cheap ass pads are probably the culprit. I spent $60 on the front and $50 on the back and got some Bendix semi-metallc brake pads. They are better than a non-metallic (OEM) pad, but easier on your rotors than a ceramic pad, with better breaking than ceramic.
 
A soft pad compound could explain an increase in brake dust, but 50% pad wear in a month is incredible. Sounds like you brakes are dragging (not fully releasing).

Jack up the front. Apply and release the brakes one time (engine can be off). Now see if you can spin both front tires freely by hand.
Two possible causes of binding:
(1) The "ears" of the pad backing plates may have burrs, and do not slide freely in the caliper guide rails. No amount of grease will overcome this; you have to take the burrs of with sandpaper or a file.
(2) If your old pads were badly worn, the caliper piston had to protrude way out of the cylinder bore to compensate, potentially exposing the microfinished piston surface to corrosive elements. There is a piston seal boot, but these are not always 100% effective. A piston with surface corrosion will bind in the cylinder after being pushed back in to make space for the new pads.
 
I think I need to spring for better brakes. As to the right side wearing out faster.....My Right side was very worn when I changed my brakes/rotors. Pads were almost gone. If the piston is sticking can this be fixed or do I need to get a new claiper? I am thinking I can tear it apart and clean/polish off any serface rust?
Thanks again guys for all your help.
Roger
 
Pads that bind in the guide rails usually show much more wear on one pad (inner or outer) than the other. And, pads that bind just at the top or bottom will have uneven wear (top to bottom) from being jammed at an angle relative to the rotor.

In theory, the caliper can be removed, piston pushed out, and polished; but I have not had any luck doing this. If the corrosion is so bad that there is pitting of the surface, polishing won't save the caliper.

Piston corrosion is more of a problem in the "snow belt" states, where they use salt on the roads in winter. If you live in a warm dry climate, I would be surprised if that was your problem.

Pitted pistons are a lot harder to push back into the cylinder. But if you are using a big C-clamp, you might not notice the difference.

When a front brake is dragging on one side, the car will tend to drift to that side when driving straight ahead on a level surface at moderate speed (say 40mph) with your hands off the steering wheel.
When doing this test, be aware that many roads are crowned (higher in the center than on the sides) by design to shed water. The crown will cause the car to tend to drift toward the edge (usually right). Empty parking lots are a better choice.
 
I was thinking back and I do think the right tire didn't spin free. It also makes sense because my right side was completely worn before I changed the brakes/rotors (brakes worn down to the rotor). I am thinking the caliper piston may have some serface rust on it and is causing the brakes to stick I am in Canada and buy do we get snow. Has anyone had any success rebuilding these calipers? Also do you guys usually grease the guide rails where the brakes sit? I didn't do that either.
Thanks again guys for all your advice.
Rog
 
Fordparts.com lists a complete caliper at ~$75 and a caliper rebuild kit for ~$30. But they don't specify what the rebuild kit includes. Probably just seals, not a new piston. If either your piston or cylinder surface is pitted, you'll likely need a new caliper.
Personally, considering the costs and effort involved, I would replace the caliper and brake fluid.