CAI fabbing idea

[Biffmeistro]

Allright, I wanted to put a CAI in my stang, but I don't have that much money, and I don't too much like the idea of a filter in my fender wall, because it would be rather hard to get at to replace it (I think), and I want to be different.

What I was thinking of doing was keeping the MAF in the stock location, using the stock tubes from the MAF to the TB (I gutted the silencer, so it's about a constant 2.5 inch tubing), and adding a cone filter straight onto the MAF. From there, I could grab a couple thin sheets of plastic from any hobby store and fab up a box to attach to the MAF to force the filter to breathe through the fender. (End up with something kinda like this: http://www.airaidsales.com/images/products/450-177.jpg )

The main advantages I could think of would be that it's easy to take the filter out for cleaning, I could still rout the hot air tube that comes off the exhaust mainfold into the bottom of the box, and I think it would look really nice. I could add some soft rubber tubing along the top edge to make a nice seal from the engine compartment, and I could add some insulated padding to keep the engine temp from getting in.

Just a thought... What do you guys think about it?

 

[Chewievettte]

I'd go with metal over plastic but other than that it sounds like an interesting idea. Maybe not as unique as you think but certainly one of a kind.

 

[Biffmeistro]

I'm going with plastic because it would be easier to work with, at least with my equipment (IE: None. I have a basic 30 piece wrench set and maybe five other tools) and with plastic, especially if I get PVC sheets, All I need is the fancy glue. Then the only metal working I have to fuss with is attaching it to the fender

 

[Red_LX]

You could try that but I wouldn't count on it holding up so well. Years ago I made a ram-air system for my old stang, and I made a "box" for the cone filter out of aluminum that was riveted together. It worked ok, the aluminum on the end of the box broke into multiple pieces from fatigue I guess. Using plastic, you'll have to be careful of heat and other such forces.

 

[Stinger]

Fab up a box to attach to the MAF to force the filter to breathe through the fender.

I could still rout the hot air tube that comes off the exhaust mainfold into the bottom of the box.

I could add some insulated padding to keep the engine temp from getting in.

Here is the only problem...

You're forcing it to breathe cold air from the fender (good), your using insulated padding to keep the engine temp from getting in the box (good), and then you are attaching the hose from the HOT exhaust manifold directly to the air inlet (BAD).

You see how all your work at getting the coolest air possible into the engine gets wasted by feeding it hot air off the exhaust manifold?

 

[Biffmeistro]

I had thought that there was a valve that was triggered at the top of that hose that decided routed that hot air off the manifold into the airbox for the first five to ten minutes of running to get the engine up to running temp faster, then it closed and breathed through the snorkel out the bottom of the box. I was thinking I keep that whole assembly, valve included (If there is one), and I'll still have the engine warm up swift, then the valve will close and the engine will breathe the cold air.

Of course, that is all based on the thought of there being the valve.

If there isn't, I'll save myself the trouble.

Is there the valve?

 

[Stinger]

It's not an "air tight" valve, nor does it always work as it should. It doesn't effect how fast the engine warms up either...just get rid of it and your idea is fine.

 

[Biffmeistro]

Righto. So nix that bit. Makes my job easier. Do you think that nust some 1/4 inch pvc sheet would do, that it would stand up to the heat well? I hear about people using PVC tubing for intakes, so it makes sense to me that it would.

Plus, PVC is easy to work with.

 

[Stinger]

There are many different kinds of "pvc" or other similar materials...just verify that the melting point is 300+ and it should be fine.

 

[Biffmeistro]

Righto! One last question. To cut down on price for now, could I run with one of those cheap autozone cone filters for a while. (10 bucks each)

I plan on getting a K&N cone filter when I can afford it, but could I run the cheap one until I get the K&N cone? Or is that just not worth it? Should I hold off the project until I can buy the K&N?

 

[Red_LX]

I also wouldn't necessarily count on glue to hold it all together.

 

[RustBucket]

The air door for the stove pipe that runs from the manifold is in the stock airbox anyway so when you get rid of the box you get rid of the air door. I'm with Stinger on this one, remove the stove pipe and never worry about it again. For reference, mine runs just fine without it.

 

[Shawneebear93]

I'm with Stinger on this one, remove the stove pipe and never worry about it again. For reference, mine runs just fine without it.

 

[Shinlee]

thats cool and all, but if your worried about easiness of cleaning it, i can get my filter outta my fender in 10 seconds ez. I'd still put it in the fender then fab up a piece of plastic/metal and close the filter off from the engine completly. no need for glue or anything, just a bolt and nut and your good. It's what i did. works well.
and is cheap and simple. You can use a cheapo cone filter, but K&N are best. Do what you want though, it'll be fine. I like K&N more anyways cuz of the warranty, I've gone through 2 of them, cuz one was crushed and the other had oil spilt on it when i was cleaning it, and K&N airmailed me 2 for free. + their bigger too.

honestly im of the opinion though, dont do anything if your only going to half ass it.

 

[Shawneebear93]

honestly im of the opinion though, dont do anything if your only going to half ass it.

I agree, go hard or go home.

 

[Biffmeistro]

The main things I've got going against me would be lack of tools and money. I wouldn't keep it a cheap filter, only until I get the cash for a K&N, and I've had a fair amount of luck building things that hold up out of PVC and glue.

I saw something online, is thin sheet aluminum at all difficult to work with? Would I be able to work with that with little amount of tools (Or experience, to be honest)?

 

[Red_LX]

Thin sheet aluminum is a pain to work with, although that kinda depends on what you're doing with it. I built a fan shroud out of .010" (I think) sheet aluminum, and it's so easy to accidentally kink/dent/crush that stuff it's not even funny.

But it is easy to secure together by riveting. If you have good tin snips and some way to make good bends in the metal (you can improvise in place of a sheet metal brake) you might be able to do something with it.

Also be aware that aluminum is very sensitive to fatigue. It will crack very easily if subjected to any vibration.