cooling problems

[wshI_hd_1]

well, ive been fighting it for about a year now and have run out of ideas. Motor was just rebuilt around 2000 miles ago, has brand new water pump, 160* thermostat, electric fan, and as of today an alluminum radiator and new cap. I have burped it and even put coolant in with a system that suppesedly allows no air in It runs 235 degrees driving down the road and climbs if stopped, i cant drive it anywhere and have no idea what else to do.

thanks in advance for any help.

 

[lxwants12's]

which water pump are you using? could you have put the stat in backwards? could the fan be a puller/pusher and you have it wired backwards? that is def not normal temps for your described cooling system

 

[wshI_hd_1]

water pumps just your regular stock replacement, therms in right, and the fan is pushing...would it be better to have it pulling? thanks

 

[kn7671]

What size of elec. fan, or make and model of fan if you know? You may have bought too small of a fan.

I have problems with mine if I use the A/C, otherwise the Flex-a-lite 185 fan does a fine job.

 

[vristang]

water pumps just your regular stock replacement, therms in right, and the fan is pushing...would it be better to have it pulling? thanks

The fan needs to be pulling air across the rad, and into the engine compartment.
The fan should be mounted on the engine side of the rad.

 

[lxwants12's]

yea the fan should be exactly like ^^ said...but guys he also stated that the car runs 225* when hes driving!! i have a 3 core griffen aluminum, after markets water pump and electric fan...and when im cruising i dont even need to turn the fan on unless im going under 35mph.....so there is something else wrong there.....does the water pump have the right rotation..cause i know that autoparts stores give you a choice when you ask....they say is it reverse rotation which yours is and sometimes i guess people dont know it....maybe thats what you did

 

[5spd GT]

Check to make sure you got the correct water pump.

What kind of aluminum radiator do you have?

If your cruising with that temp...it is probably a flow problem in the system. Could be air or some other sort of blockage in the system.

 

[ExplodingGopher]

Air doesn't like to be "pushed" through the radiator, pushers are meant to be supplimentary fans, not stand alone fans. YOU NEED A GOOD PULLER FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and your cooling issues will be gone.

 

[chobracobra]

run 100% water and see if temps go down? dont let it go past 212 tho! hey i just learned this in chemistry today..
To find the boiling point of H2O: 49.161*ln(barametric pressure)+44.932=B.P. of H20

 

[HISSIN50]

run 100% water and see if temps go down? dont let it go past 212 tho! hey i just learned this in chemistry today..
To find the boiling point of H2O: 49.161*ln(barametric pressure)+44.932=B.P. of H20

Actually the system is under pressure. Each PSI raises the effective boiling point of the system by about 3*F. So he should be good to run water to around 250-260*F.

 

[chobracobra]

true. thanks hissin. forgot the obvious. its late.

 

[chobracobra]

actually....to drag this out even more.
If you add the pressure of the system(cooling system) and convert to mmHG 57.175 per 1psi. and the pressure of the surroundings(Barometric preasure) you can plug in it too see ABOUT when your car will boil. See folks math is fun

 

[302RollinHard]

I would think that if you have an electric fan (engine side mounted) "pushing air" towards the outside, and air trying to come through the radiator from outside in to the engine compartment the net effect of air flow would be diminished. Just a thought.

 

[HISSIN50]

I would think that if you have an electric fan (engine side mounted) "pushing air" towards the outside, and air trying to come through the radiator from outside in to the engine compartment the net effect of air flow would be diminished. Just a thought.

I think I get what you're saying, and that is right-on (a pusher fan mounted where a puller normally resides, will find a speed where the net flow across the that part of the coil is zero with regard to fan output-flow and incoming air-charge butting heads).
It seems to me that Honda Goldwings tried this a few years back. The fan (IIRC! I might be wrong) could be a pusher or puller. The idea was to have it push at low speeds, so the rider's legs wouldnt get hit with hot air. Then at a magical threshold (around 12-15 mph IIRC), the fan would reverse and pull conventionally. The thing was that during parades, it got stuck between the two methods as speeds toggled back and forth and some bikes ran hot.

As an aside, a pusher fan on the outside (front) of the coil can cause a decent impediment to air flow across the coil alone. As said, they are used an tiny aux fans on some applications (often with a mech puller fan as the primary fan) but they are best when used as aux fans.

 

[wshI_hd_1]

yeah, the water pump is reverse rotation and the fan is pretty small...one thing i noticed today though is that both the upper and lower radiator hoses are very stiff when its hot, even after the thermostat is open, kinda weird...and also, thanks everyone

 

[94GT347]

Air doesn't like to be "pushed" through the radiator, pushers are meant to be supplimentary fans, not stand alone fans. YOU NEED A GOOD PULLER FAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and your cooling issues will be gone.

:WERD:
Make sure it's turning in the right direction too. Should be blowing air onto the motor