Hi,
I apologize, should’ve clarified, whether a twin screw, roots, centrifugal FI, limited access won’t prevent access to any of the ignition & Fuel
Since this is a ”Crank, no start” issue, with the EEC indicat potential issues, focusing on the (2) points below in order to establish baseline info. EEC’s fail, but fairly atypical. This Testing will narrow things down, considerably.
~~>Ignition. Correct input to Coils. Pulsed ground trigger from EEC. Correct spark timing..**
~~>Fuel system. Presence, Pressure & flow. Pulse from EEC. Correct injector timing. **
IGNITION:
If you, a friend has a known functional, spare COP, and a spark tester or plug....
1) Pull a COP’s input plug & plug it into the known functional spare with a Spark tester or plug inserted, ground to the block. Have a helper turn it over. Should see a spark. Try a few of them. OR...
Multimeter & a NOID light..
A) Using a NOID light, you should see cyclic ground pulses occurring as light pulses as the engine is being turned over. Then, with a VOM on DCV, test the Voltage inside the connectors with the key On, should be 12VDC.
FUEL SYSTEM:
2) Using a NOID light, test a few (2) pin injector’s plugs as the engine’s being turned over. You should see a flashing light. Then, With a VOM on DCV, 12VDC should be present across the terminals with key On. Try a few, if ok- we’ll move on.
— The pump’s priming as it was previously, you mentioned you’ve taken care of that?
—BTW, L & R rear Areas where Windings seem slightly discolored within Alternator, may be the Pic’s, or misinterpretation on my part.(?)..
.—Just in case the EEC’s in need of a Reflash or replacement, do you have the program the EEC’s been running on a Dongle, Tuner?
—Is your Scantool capable of viewing PID’s (stream live EEC data onscreen), drive cycles, freeze frame, etc
Any questions about anything I’d posted, or if you’re unsure about a process I’d listed, ask away!
God luck
-John