Does anyone have pics of their suspension setups..if so please post

[mytight95]

I am just trying to get an idea of the difference between the bolt in subframes, the weld in ones, and also the square and round ones........i am baffled with all the da** choices.........i also was wondering how they install where exactly etc.... A friend of mine has a shop...says he will weld them up for free....i think he is gonna tig them in place........but he says he has never welded up a set before.......that is why i am curious about placement etc.....

Also, is there anything else that can be welded, torque boxes i have heard need to be welded, but i don't know exactly what is meant by that......anything else i should do while the car is in the air and the suspension is being worked on.......


Sorry for the dumb a$$ post but when it comes to suspension i am a moron.........


PS.....I bought a battery relocation kit, also to help with traction, weight transfer.......but other than that and upper/lower control arms what else will be needed to be done to get the handling ride and traction up to par for a good torky (sp?) car.........

thanks for looking etc.


jason

 

[Car Nut]

I went with subframes that are squared and they also connect to the seat bolts through a cross brace. The subs are welded in.

I've been told not to use bolt-ons because they are not as strong and are prone to break. Plus they don't have as may points of contact as welds. Squared ones fit nice and flush, but not sure if rounds are a disadvantage.

I took my subs to a muffler shop and had them welded in for $20 I think. Only took them a few minutes, plus they've done the work hundreds of times specifically on Mustangs.

This spring, I am going to get the Kenny Brown Matrix Brace and jacking rails. This will allow an almost unlmited amount of jacking points between the side tires. Then I'll get a Nascar style jack whenever I want to do something to my tires, brakes, or whatever else. Now that my car is lowered, I need that type of access.

Your probably going to find lots of opinions on subs, but I think all will agree that you should get them welded in.

 

[mytight95]

well welded having more contact points, as you put it does make better sense.......i have not seen a set installed on a car though......where they mount etc......so that was the main reason for asking.....


jason

oh yeah, thanks for the reply

 

[4Jenna]

I recc. u get the full length weld in style..much stronger. They will bolt in under your seat and have the welder weld it in a few places so they are a permanent fixture if u will. Paint over the welds so they wont rust. The full lengths go from like the firewall all the way back.

I'm not sure on how much u want this thing to hook, and what your plans are but...For a car to hook like a mofo I'd recc this for suspension

Tubular K-member kit with 14" 150lb coilovers
90/10s
Uppers/Lowers
Eibach Drag rear springs
With slicks and a good gear this thing would hook dead nuts..hope you have axles.
Other than that just get the Eibach drag springs all the way around if u dont want to do the kmember/coilovers now. Not sure what power your making but if it is as TORkY as u say..you will cut 1.5's easy and pull the wheels with those parts.

 

[mytight95]

not that torky....lol

in the form my car is in now....it would never pull the wheels.....very,.very close to 300 RWTQ......i just want it to handle good, and hood decent on the street while being able to go down the quarter with drag radials....and not spin up to 3rd


jason

 

[4Jenna]

Get DR's

 

[mytight95]

i have drag radials for the track.........the ones i started to get for the street were a bit pricey ..........but 250-+$a tire plus shipping etc., was a bit much for me on the street since i would only prolly get 5-6K miles out of them...


jason

 

[4Jenna]

Street tires dont hook..even if u do suspension....once u make power your done.

 

[baglock1]

Tell your friend not to waste his time with TIG welding them in. Use a MIG as it will be much easier and go much quicker. TIG welding in SFCs is overkill to the Nth degree.

As far as pictures, just do a search (either on SN or a google) and you should find plenty.

 

[mytight95]

thanks guys.......i did a search on google........found some good results to help us with placement


jason

 

[OinkAodeOink]

yea MIG them forsure... LOT of wasted time Tigging them in.

Eades.. 150lb QA1 springs? NO WAY,lol
I run 150s up front, with 90/10's, and the sucker wants to bottom out waaay to easy, even under normal street driving, itl bottom out going around a corner semi fast,lol ATLEAST go with 175's or more, even for a drag car. They are only 35 bucks or so for a set, so im gona try the 175's out and hopefully gain back some better handling.

 

[mytight95]

how much did you guys pay for your coil-over setups, are they very expensive.......... If not that may be something worth looking into and then just gettin lowering springs for the rear

jason

 

[baglock1]

I paid $369 for the fronts and $449 for my rears. Those are the MM kits for Bilsteins with Hypercoil springs (I got 375# and 250# F/R). Of course, c/o setups absolutely REQUIRE quality CC plates. My MM plates were $200.

They also have complete coilover kits including Bilstein shocks/struts for around $1600.

 

[mytight95]

whew thats pricey...i think for street driving, and pretty rare track visits i will go with just springs and quality struts/shocks.......lol

thanks though

jason

 

[4Jenna]

Oink thats a 14" u run?

 

[OinkAodeOink]

yep, i run the QA1 14" 150lb'ers with lakewood 90/10's

Paid $600 for the complete front end, minus the 90/10's from UPR directly.
(thats CC plates, A arms, K member, Hardware, Coil overs, and springs)

 

[4Jenna]

Hmm maybe i will try 14/175
Alls i know is my 12/200s dont transfer near enuff