Does it make sense to use HIPO headers?

[sparx]

Selecting the exhaust for the new 302 mild roller cam engine with Edelbrock heads.
Does it make sense to use HIPo cast iron headers as they did back in the day?

I don't want elaborate tri y headers with fit issues. I have manual steering with the shelby drop btw, no rack and pinion.

Is there something better- my machinist recommended Hooker brand.

In addition I am planning to use an original style exhaust with resonators 2", too small? I do not want a loud earth shaking car.

TIA
sparx

 

[10secgoal]

1 1/2 primaries and 2.25 should do you well. I would not do cast iron, let alone pay more for another set that is barely better. Don't choke those heads with cast iron

 

[sparx]

That is what I was concerned about.

I need recommendations for this. I don't want anything elaborate but I need something that will not cancel power and will last.
TY
sparx

 

[65coupe408w]

I had a set of headman headers on my 289. They cleared everything just fine and they were pretty cheap too.

 

[2+2GT]

I switched from headers to 289HP manifolds years ago, and I suppose I lost some power between 5000 and 6000 rpm, but it still runs pretty strong.

 

[sparx]

2+2
what exhaust are you using?

 

[68RCodeConv]

4-speed or automatic? If you have a manual with the stock z-bar setup you can run into clearance problems with headers.

I'm running Hipo exhaust manifolds on my 347. Probably losing 30 hp at 6000 rpm but no clearance problems, no leaks, no PS drop bracket. I'm at the point where I just don't want to mess with headers any more. Motor still pulls strong to 6500 and spins the tires at will so I'm happy.

 

[2+2GT]

2+2
what exhaust are you using?

This one:

 

[sparx]

Is that vintage original style?

I have a C4 auto trans

 

[2+2GT]

Yeah, that's a stone-stock repro 65-66 GT and K code, and 66 GT350 exhaust.

 

[sparx]

Thanks, I thought so.

I have myself confused again as what to do. I don't think the HP loss is all that great. Again I am looking for the 60's sound. And of course cast iron HIPO headers are very durable.

Decisions, decisions...

Thanks for your input guys and the images 2+2

 

[iskwezm]

I had try-y's for years with my edelbrock heads and never had any issues.They tuck up higher then most headers too.

 

[zigmont]

Exhaust

Go with the cast iron manifolds. Put em on and forget em. No issues with exhaust leaks. Less noise and heat in the engine compartment.

 

[rebel65]

i agree with 10sec,

why pay more for hipo exhaust manifolds when they are still worse than some shorties from headman?
the sound level is more determined by the muffler used not the headers. so don't get flowmasters : )


edit:

some good shorty headers are about 100 dollars less than hipo exhaust manifolds
the headman street headers are 159 dollars, cheapest 289 hipo i could find was 249

 

[2+2GT]

Go with the cast iron manifolds. Put em on and forget em. No issues with exhaust leaks. Less noise and heat in the engine compartment.

I agree. The heat radiating from headers, even shorties, makes air conditioning mandatory, even if your headers never leak.

 

[rebel65]

maybe it's because of my header's ceramic coating, or that i'm a youngin' but i don't have Ac, and i don't think the new engine is hotter than the old one with the cast iron manifolds, i think it's less hot.. but that could be a million things, but i do make sure to drive it on the hottest days and in traffic just because it can now..

 

[68xstang]

From the test done at: Ford Mustang Dyno Chart Photo 26, they compared the log type manifolds, hipos and long type headers on a 68 mustang with a (stock?) 302 engine, with normal 2" pipes and normal mufflers.
The difference between logs and hipos was zero. But the headers gave some increase in hp and torque.

The conclusion was, that, to get an increase in hp and torque from swithcing to hipos, a modification to the complete system is needed, i.e. larger tubes and free flowing mufflers.
However I have not seen any "proof" or figures that would show this hp increase when switching from logs to hipos. Can anyone share such info??

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Something troubling me about that article is that they said the log and hipo manifolds have the same port and outlets sizes. I have a pair of C5 log manifolds and one D-something hipo-style and the hipo's outlet I.D. is substantially larger. The "hipo" manifolds in the article appear to be crummy offshore repops.

 

[zigmont]

maybe it's because of my header's ceramic coating, or that i'm a youngin' but i don't have Ac, and i don't think the new engine is hotter than the old one with the cast iron manifolds, i think it's less hot.. but that could be a million things, but i do make sure to drive it on the hottest days and in traffic just because it can now..

I didn't say the engine would run hotter, I meant there would be more heat in the engine compartment due to the increase in surface area of the headers vice the manifolds. Unless the insulation on your firewall and front floors is really good, there will be more heat coming through the firewall and floors with headers than with manifolds.

 

[Rusty67]

The Hipo manifolds aren't bad. There is some meat in them to port them out and get some decent performance out of them. A set of 69 or 70 351w manifolds are very similar to the hipo manifolds and are significantly cheaper too. The 351w manifolds can be ported to flow about as well as most headers (if done properly). The porting will up the cost of the entire setup but you can provably get your hands on a set of manifolds for under 100 bux. If you are going to use a cable clutch then don't bother with the 351w manifolds. I know you have an auto now but if you change later you wont be able to make it work unless you go hydrolic or z-bar.

As for tri-ys not fitting well, I have not used them myself but I have heard that if you buy the right pair they fit just fine and cause no problems.

As far as the rest of the system is concerned, a 2 inch resonator is basically pointless. Put in a 6 inch resonator on each bank of cylinders and then throw a pair muffler in the back to match. Also, this is 2010, do yourself a favor and get a mandril bent setup, crush bent is for savages in this day and age. As far as pipe size is concerned, you could do 2.25 inch but if you do upgrades later you will want 2.5 inch. I would get 2.5 inch now which wont hurt anything and will leave your exhaust system to grow if you put more go fast parts in. I'm partial to Magnaflow mufflers because they are not restrictive but you may want to go with something that will be a little quieter. Don't go with Flowmaster because thats not the sound you want. Also, stay away from Dynomax because those things are LOUD. I can't recomend a quite muffler, sorry.