Dowels on flywheel

Well put the new spec stage II clutch in with a ram bullit flywheel problem is a have a pretty bad chatter unless i just let the clutch off fast and give it more gas than usual. Like a retard :shrug: :bang: I didnt install any dowells on the new flywheel My question is would that make a differance on my chatter problem or will the chatter go away after break in like the last clutch I did.
 
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Best to take it apart and do it correctly this time...

Q.: Clutch/Transmission Installation Tips For 1986 and Newer V-8 Mustangs

A.: The flywheel to crankshaft bolts must be hand-torqued to 75-85 ft./lbs. (302/351W) and 54-64 ft./lbs. (4.6L) The 10.5" pressure plate bolts must be torqued to 12-24 ft./lbs. and 11" pressure plate bolts to 33 ft./lbs. + 1/4 turn.

Be sure to use the alignment dowels in the flywheels. Pressure plate bolts and alignment dowels for the 10.5" clutch can be purchased using PN M-6397-A302. Pressure plate bolts N808969-S100 and alignment dowels D1FZ-6397-B are for the 11" pressure plate.

Evenly tighten bolts in a circular direction one turn at a time. Bellhousing alignment is crucial for proper clutch and transmission function.

Due to production tolerances of engine blocks and bellhousings, it is possible for the transmission centerline and crankshaft centerline to be misaligned. Misalignment can cause transmission gear wear, transmission jumping out of gear, driveline vibration, clutch pedal vibration, pilot bearing noise, release bearing noise or excessive clutch spin time. It may also damage the pilot bearing, transmission mainshaft bearing and clutch hub. It will also cause harsh shifting.

Before installing the bellhousing, check the block mounting surface and bellhousing surfaces for nicks, dents, paint debris, etc. These are some things that could affect the accuracy of your measurements.




Q.: How do I check bellhousing alignment?

A.: The first step is to check bellhousing face runout. You are checking for parallelism of the back of the bellhousing to the back of the block. Install the dial indicator (as shown fig.1). Rotate the crankshaft and mark down the reading. Be sure to push the crankshaft against the thrust bearing for an accurate reading. Maximum runout is .010.

The next step is checking bellhousing bore runout. You are checking to see if the bellhousing bore centerline is aligned with crankshaft centerline. Reposition the dial indicator in the bellhousing bore (as shown fig. 2). Rotate the crankshaft and mark down the readings. Maximum out of concentricity is .015. If the bore runout is out of spec. install appropriate offset dowels.

Offset alignment dowels can be purchased from Lakewood.
.007 PN 15950
.014 PN 15960
.021 PN 15970

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cooper58d2002 said:
Well put the new spec stage II clutch in with a ram bullit flywheel problem is a have a pretty bad chatter unless i just let the clutch off fast and give it more gas than usual. Like a retard :shrug: :bang: I didnt install any dowells on the new flywheel My question is would that make a differance on my chatter problem or will the chatter go away after break in like the last clutch I did.

Not sure about the dowells, but i heard with Spec you need to let it break in. The chatter should go away. then again, a lot of people say the chatter wont go away. :shrug:
 
Misalignment can cause transmission gear wear, transmission jumping out of gear, driveline vibration, clutch pedal vibration, pilot bearing noise, release bearing noise or excessive clutch spin time. It may also damage the pilot bearing, transmission mainshaft bearing and clutch hub. It will also cause harsh shifting.
 
I just put in a STG 3 clutch and we used the pins...but I havnt been able to drive the car. Hopefully I wont have much chatter lol.

I wonder if its possable that the flywheel is off ballence W/O the pins????

Oh and a question for you....how much pad did the clutch have? Like before it wears out to the point of hitting the rivets? I know mine barely had any meat on the clutch it seemed, but im guess its SUPER hard and really wont wear out. :shrug:
 
hotmustang331 said:
Oh and a question for you....how much pad did the clutch have? Like before it wears out to the point of hitting the rivets? I know mine barely had any meat on the clutch it seemed, but im guess its SUPER hard and really wont wear out. :shrug:

The clutch was fine other than the ever annoying thowout bearing noise I wanted to replace the clucth before i threw in the Supercharger at a later date
 
I dont think you messed up...bascially bolt the flywheel up. Push the clutch disk up to the flywheel, then put the alignment tool through the clutch and flywheel to align it. Put the pressure plate up to the clutch and start bolting it down evenly. The tabs will line everything up (thats why i would use the tabs...im not sure if the pressure plate will bolt only 1 way up to the flywheel) and then equally tighten everything down. When its all tight, remove the plastic alignment tool and stab the transmission into it.
Thats about it...prettyhard to screw up :shrug: .
 
hotmustang331 said:
I dont think you messed up...bascially bolt the flywheel up. Push the clutch disk up to the flywheel, then put the alignment tool through the clutch and flywheel to align it. Put the pressure plate up to the clutch and start bolting it down evenly. The tabs will line everything up (thats why i would use the tabs...im not sure if the pressure plate will bolt only 1 way up to the flywheel) and then equally tighten everything down. When its all tight, remove the plastic alignment tool and stab the transmission into it.
Thats about it...prettyhard to screw up :shrug: .

True but without the dowells on the flywheel the presure plate only has the bolts to line everything up so my pressure plate may be a millimeter off :shrug: this suck I knew i shouldnt have rushed:bang:
 
hotmustang331 said:
Man its a tough call...your right, it could be just a HAIR off...but that may cause the whole assymbly to be out of ballence :( . DO you feel any vibration or anything when setting in neutral or with the clutch in?
only when i rev it in nuetral and at certain rpms in nuetral but its not a terrible vibration while driving its fine other than the chatter when i first start off its a pretty bad chatter
 
I was afraid of that :(. Most of your chatter may be coming from the clutch hitting the rough part of the pressure plate (its not smooth everywhere). But thats a shot in the dark and depends on how for off it is...but its coming off anyways. Good luck!
 
I had to order the new dowells from ford today $3 bucks a peice. I think this thread is a reminder to everyone out there that no matter how many times you do something you should not rush anything or stop and wait between weekends to finish up a project because simple things like a 3 dollar dowell will create more work and more time in the end. So instead o enjoying a nice rainny weekend getting drunk and talking shop I will be pulling my tranny. Thanks ya'll