Dr_elusives Swap Question and Progress Thread V 2.0

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Dr_EluSivE, Apr 4, 2005.

  1. Alrighty, since my old thread was lost in the Great stangnet crash of 2005, I will have to start a new one. But i will start off with some news about my progress. I got all the wiring done first, and here is what i did today..

    Time to come out..
    Its Free!
    Anyone need a Boat anchor?
    Anyone ever done this to clutch before?? This is the culprit that "Forced" an Early swap
    A clean Engine bay.. is a happy Engine bay.

    Now.. A few questions too. I am ordering a Race engineering Adjustable Cam pulley to slap on the roller cam, Anything i should Know before i do this??

    I also notice alot of people haveing Grounding issues. The old motor had one Ground strap, Should i add Another and Where?



    Attached Files:

  2. I don't think you've posted any pics of the future heart of your Mustang!? If you did, I don't remember.

    Oh and I have no idea about the grounding issue.

    EDIT: Have any trouble disconnecting the header from the downpipe? God that was horrible when I put the long tube on, I gave up and sawall'd (sp*) it after the pre-cat. Glad to see you're making progress!
  3. Looks good!

    I made a ground strap/cable out of a welding cable. I soldered lugs on the ends of the cable. I bolted one lug to the fender and one to the engine block. Did seem to idle a bit better. Cost me about $6-7 to make.

  4. Ground problems generally arise from moving the battery or using aftermarket (universal) cables. All the stock grounding stuff works just fine for a battery in the stock place.
  5. No, i havent, Its all painted too, ill take a pic today and post it later.
    And YES! disconnecting the exaust was a royal pain, we spent probably 46 mins getting the exaust unhooked and only about 10 mins pulling the motor, and my exaust hasent been on there for more then 2-3 years.
  6. It'll be worth the time, and I can't wait for the pics!
  7. an additional grounding strap helped some small electrical problems and also helped with a smoother idle. the stock strap sucks.
  8. "stock" is a funny notion. The stock stuff as it came from the factory is more than adequate..."stock" as it is on a car that's a few steps away from the local Pick-a-Part is another thing entirely.

    If you have good factory cables, that's more than adequate. If you have old hacked-up cables from Autozone, you're bound to have ground issues.
  9. Well as requested, here they are. The motor isnt done yet, the valve cover you see on the block is not the one i am using, the water line on the block that is painted blue is not being used either, i have another better set painted black. Also i havent repainted the Pulleys yet either, they will go back black. But this is how it was this morning.. Now its missing the cam cover, timing belt cover and all the front stuff.
    Exaust Side
    Intake Side (so far)
    And this is the Valve cover i will be using, its painted then DA'ed, then Cleared.
    Ill post more pics when the Whole thing is assembled. But thats how it is now.

    The color By the way is "New Ford Blue"


    Attached Files:

  10. Anyone know what tool i need to remove the Followers and Cam? I know i need a spring compressor of some sort but the one i have is made for OHV motors NOT SOHC motors and doesnt look like it will work. The Haynes book mentions a special tool.. Anybody have a part number for this? I would like to swap cams tomorrow.

  11. Dr, I know what you're talking about.. KD Tools makes a tool that works great for our engines, but it's $50. Being in the DIY TF style, I welded up my own tool, and it works great for as little as I needed it. I have about $10 in materials and about 1.5 hours of labor in it. In a pinch, you can get away with a carefully positioned screwdriver. Of course, be careful not to scratch the cam. Also, just thought of this.. try to apply a lot of weight to the top of each lifter. If you're lucky, you might be able to collapse them while still in the head, which will make follower removal much easier.

    gio_momma.... Just because something is stock, doesn't mean it is optimum. Take for example the stock cast cylinder heads. Have you actually looked at a stock runner and valve bowl versus a properly heavily ported one? You can't tell me stock is better. My car idled better afting installing my welding cable ground strap. Ran a bit smoother, too. The majority of us here at SN (and especially TF) are looking for performance upgrades and improvements. When you start improving things and optimizing the operation and performance of parts, the weaknesses of other parts and systems becomes more obvious. Sure, in a bone stock application, the stock ground strap is probably fine. Would I rely solely on the stock strap? Heck no. You have to realize that a lot of us are not in the "100% stock" category. You can say whatever you want, but based on my electrical knowlege, I want something better for my engine.
  12. Hey Doc,

    When I did the LX, hearing how turbofords love good grounds, I added a real one to the turbo - in addition to the stock one that goes to the harness, one to the fuel injector harness (to the firewall), and I grounded my fuel pressure sending unit gauge (something you might not have - dunno) to the firewall. Like Brantley showed in the pics - I ground away all the paint and primer for metal to metal contact. Talk about smooth running :D

    So...if you've ever listened to an SVO w/ a stock harness idle they go up and down, up and down. When I put the LA3 in the SVO I added all the same grounds - man what an improvement. Everything was better, no more dimming lights, idle hunting, etc.

    Add those grounds. Your car will thank ya.
  13. The "stock ground strap" on a turbo is the battery cable that connects the battery to the body and the engine. Additionally, there are one or two other smaller (braided) straps that go from the engine to the firewall area. The ECU grounds directly to the battery on two pins and one directly to the body.

    If you found any documented "additional performance" from adding more wire to your car, I want you come work on mine (after I see the dyno sheets, of course...LOL).


    Most people have ground "problems" when they move the battery...because they don't understand how the grounds work and they forget to ground the engine to the chassis and the ECU grounds (that used to connect to the battery) to the chassis. Seen it a BUNCH of times...but never...not once ever (in 20+ years) seen a case where adding additional grounds to a properly maintained vehicle fixed anything or made it run any "better".
  14. They idle fine when the idle stop and TP are set right.
  15. Here ya go --> http://store.racinglab.com/whishygrsy.html I am not a big fan of imports, but I have learned to appreciate them. A guy I know decently well at school who installed the above kit on his 03 Mitsu Lancer. He said he could definitely feel a difference.

    Also keep in mind that with 20ish year old cars, the wiring systems aren't exactly in tip-top shape. Why would I go through a harness that's in the car and check ground resistances on each relevant connector and connection point when I could add a substantially better ground?

    So.. you can just keep on smokin' whatever you got... My car runs better because I have adequate grounds. You will not be able to convince me that an easier path to ground is not better or not needed. Unless you can show me some dyno charts proving that better ground paths decrease power.
  16. Oh god...not the butt-dyno again...:rlaugh:

    I BUILD and sell EFI harnesses. Trust me, I know where the grounds go and how they work.

    The stock ground configuration is more than adequate if they're in decent condition...but don't let lil' ol me stop you from grounding every single piece of metal in your car to every other piece of metal.

    I'm sure it will help it run "better". ;)
  17. Actually you don't have to use the throttle stop at all if your IAC and TPS are adjusted properly. Dude, you've confirmed by your posts you aren't the tech guru you wish we thought you were. There's a jillion guys out there that are mediocre wrenches that have made a living at it for 20 years and beyond.

  18. Yeah...just forget what Ford says...they don't know what they're talking about either....

    OH yeah...how the hell do you adjust an idle air control???????

    I think we found out who the mediocre tech is...:D
  19. well, ground straps are cheap and the factory one is kinda skuzzy so ill Replace it, and add one to the other side for good measure. I have never heard of having Too many grounds.. so ill just do it.

    I do have a question though, On the vaccum lines, i want to elminate all vac lines i dont need so help me figure out what i can dump. My stock motor had one on the PCV valve that runs to a gold Cyl (selinoid of some kind) and then to the charcoal box. I dont see a hookup like this on the turbo motor so can i safely remove it? Also since i dont have the EGR fitting for my manifold i have just plugged the hole, but i am leaving the EGR valve on the intake because i will probably hook it up sometime in the future. Will it leak if i just unhook the Vac hose? Do i phyiscally have to cap it off?
    Also i want to review the timing procedure since i replacing the cam. I aim the Rotor at #1, aim the cam at the mark, and aim the crank at TDC and thats all i have to do right? when i start it will i need to start it with the Spout out and let the motor learn its timing? or can i just set and forget?

    I am really trying to be as thourough as i can be so i can avoid problems when i get it all in. I dont wanna half ass things, i want to do things right so i Appriciate all the help.

  20. If your ground stuff is messed up, then do what you have to do to correct it. Just don't get all crazy and obsessive grounding everything...it's just a waste of time....but if it makes you feel better. :shrug:

    That solenoid deal is the canister purge valve. The turbos don't use it. Just cap off the port on the canister.

    Yeah, you can just leave the hose off the EGR valve and it will be fine.

    You pretty much have the timing belt stuff right. To set the ignition timing, you pull the spout and set the timing to 10* BTDC with a light, then plug the spout back in.

    Get going already. :)