Fenders For A 68' Coupe

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by Tibernot, Oct 24, 2013.

  1. Need some thoughts about quality front fender replacement for my 68 Coupe. I have read a ton about original Ford tooling being lower quality due to worn out dies resulting in poor body lines. Then you get into repro's and Dyncorp discussion. It leaves me with the common question what panels should I buy and from whom? Let me also state that the old ones are not in terrible shape but at some point, someone decided to cut the upper fenders at the A pillar. Looks like they could not figure out how to get them to fit correctly and hacked away. Ok fella's, poor on your thoughts.
  2. the ford fenders are not what they used to be :nonono:i used Dynacorn on my 67
    and they were actually a pretty good fit .i had to do a bit of forming at the cowl, just had to lift up a bit . the 65 fenders are not that great but i would recommend the 67-68s
    Tibernot likes this.
  3. Tibernot, did you ever get your answer?

    I too am looking for fenders and am concerned on the "crispness" of the Ford Tooling as well how delicate they may be due to either the metal being thinner or or just weaker compared to the metal being stamped in the late sixties. I've called around and have been "given" opinions from different vendors. Take Dynacorn for example, I know they do not make their own fenders, they buy them from someone else (I think Apex) and re-brand it as theirs, so the resellers/vendors like to say they are cheap and poor quality. My view is, a Ford Tooling fenders cost about 2.5x more, but may be thinner and easier to crease when doing any engine maintenance or leaning on the fender. If Dynacorn's fender are thicker, and you are able to get it to fit, wouldn't that be better?

    But again this is all "hear say". I don't have any hard proof one way or the other. The shop I've been dealing with suggested I say away from Ford Tooling and go Dynacorn, Apex, or Golden Legion to get the thicker metal and pay the difference to the body guy to get the fit right. Keep in mind, the shop makes no money off of this suggestion, as I would be buying them from the internet, and shipping to another shop where the car is waiting for paint. It more of an observation from the cars they have been working on.

    So as Tibernot asked, "Pour on your thoughts."
  4. I bought the Dyncorn based on Horse Sence's advice. Got them from CJ Pony. They are quality metal and look to fit well. All in all I am pleased thus far. Right now they are semi mocked up as I have to replace the entire wheel wells on both sides due to some previous botched "repairs". I must also admit that the previous quarter repair was horribly done so I am doing a full replacement. The only real figment problem looks to be where the rear window panel meets the quarter. That is gonna need tweaking. I will post some pics soon to show the progress. Since this is my first resto project, I have nothing else to compare it too. All I can say is that I am happy with my Dyncorn choice.
  5. you are very correct about the fit at the rear window .it isn't bad but something is a little crooked ,about 1/8 inch .i have done several 67 -68 quarters and the driver side is always this way .the pass side always fits good .if you haven't changed the lower rear window panel then i would say it is the quarter .all in all not a major problem but expect to have to work this area just a bit. Dynacorn and Ford tooling sheet metal seems to be heavier gauge than original but the Dynacorn is the heaviest .
  6. i found a pic of this area at the bottom of the window where it meets the quarter. yours probably looks about the same ? IMG_2899.JPG
  7. I have not gotten this far yet. Every time I think I am getting close to welding I find another goof that must be corrected first. Today I found that the previous owner had welded (I use that term very loosely) a new trunk brace over the old one throwing everyone out of alignment. I also found that I have to replace the left and right trunk floors and the rear window panel. The good news is that the frame actually looks pretty good and that means there is literally nothing else to take off. The bad news is that I have not touched the drivers side.
  8. Here are some pic's of what I have been dealing with. Note that the quarters, wheel wells tail light panel and trunk drop off's all had new panels "welded/glued" over the old panels. The resulting mess created approx 1/2 gap between the quarter extensions and the tail light panel. The quarters could not be salvaged as they had been notched too high and the replacement panels were welded over the crest of the panel which completely destroyed the top edge. Once the trunk floor arrives from CJ Pony, the PAX side will be reassembled and then comes the drivers side.

    Attached Files:

  9. So I spoke too soon. After tearing down the drivers side, I found the last 14" of the rail are toast and must be replaced. It also appears that the rear of the car was wrecked/damaged since the DS rail is 3/8" longer and 1/4" pushed out. More fun before assembly.
  10. Much work has been done since my last post. Completed DS rear new frame install. Installed new rear quarters, truck brace, lower rear window panel, tail light panel, trunk lid, new seat pans (all dyncorn). Also installed new floor mount e-brake, completed shelby drop and under coating. Currently putting in Borgeson PS sys, Idit tilt, complete painless wiring harness. Gonna be a challenge dealing with aligning the quarter panel extensions and cleaning up gaps. Still much more to go but feels like I am finally making headway.
  11. Pictures ,we need pictures :shrug:
  12. image.jpg

    Attached Files:

  13. Dash torn all the way down to fix previous repairs

    Attached Files:

  14. Gonna have some major body work to get the new extensions, new trunk lid and new rear window lower panel. Should be fun.
  15. It Looks like you are doing very well:nice:
  16. Getting there. Found I made a serious miscalculation with the lower rear window panel. It sticks up on the trunk side about 1/4". Either have to replace it or try and cut excess material out and reweld. Gonna try the cut material out route first.
  17. Check the trunk lid, it may not have enough bow ,you can bow the lid over the edge of a table or a bench a little at a time ,be careful it bends easily.
  18. Hmmm…. didn't think about that. It is very flat so that may work. Appreciate the advice. :nice:
  19. I have had to do it on repro hoods and trunk lids when the bow is not quite right .
  20. Just finished the trunk and it is pert near perfect. you sir are THE MAN! :hail2: