Progress Thread fox racer's 89 LX - Earl

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
98
52
28
32
Brooklyn
Considering removing the air pump from the car. I still have the stock (or stock style) h pipe on the car that I’m planning on swapping out with something a bit better (think it’s currently 2.25” pipe, I have a Mac cat back and BBK shorties on the car already).

Cap the crossover tube, remove the pump/TAB/TAD/downtube and cap the vacuum lines. If I do it this way, will I throw any codes? Would leave the solenoids behind the passenger strut tower.

I’m still mulling it over, I’ll be moving in the next year or so (to Texas) and don’t want to screw future fox racer on the inspection stuff. Just spitballing here.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


91TwighlightGT

15 Year Member
Sep 8, 2002
1,046
294
124
37
Missouri
Visit site
Welp time flies. Summer gone by and I’ve driven the car maybe 100 miles.

The alignment shop wanted almost $600 to swap inner tire rods, align and inspect it (I had the parts). I passed on the labor and they failed me for loose inner tie rods/wouldn’t touch alignment. Out $10 and a walk so I ended up swapping the steering rack with a rebuilt quick ratio piece instead. Very happy with the swap (wish I re-used the stock transfer lines, but that’s another story). Even got my money back on the inner tie rods I had bought, so not bad at all.

Then this:
77E099C4-BA00-4625-9EDC-41C0259BC6B6.jpeg

0BE4A964-668E-4781-9C00-461ADD63A16F.jpeg

494C3FF6-60E1-416B-AD0A-3197D98FD217.jpeg

863FCD9F-C4DD-4494-B906-A213273F8A4C.jpeg

91FB052F-ED46-4FB0-9B31-FEA2B65F4C2D.jpeg

Fresh rims, pretty nasty rash - hitting the A-Arms. Grabbed steering rack limiters to prevent future damage. Little sad by it, but it’s inside the rims, no damage to the tires and only I (and now you folks) know about it.

Think I need to coat the raw metal? Can get some silver brush on POR15 and touch it up when I do the rack limiters.

I would touch it up. POR is probably overkill, but aluminum will corrode so it isn’t a bad idea to protect it, especially if you live in a salty climate where your rims will see a harsh environment.
 

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
98
52
28
32
Brooklyn
ANy updates?
Only the best kind of update: minimal work on the car, just driving it. I’ve put more miles on the car in the last two months than I have since I owned it.

I’m still getting a small hanging idle issue, even after cleaning the salt and pepper shakers. We set base idle (pulled Spout/IAC, no codes when started) to about 600-650Rpm, but the car likes to settle at around 900-950 with everything plugged back in. TPS is in range. After some sprited driving the car likes to sit at 1,100 ish, and won’t come down if I shut off turn back on. I may swap the IAC. I cleaned it a while back it it helped, but maybe it’s getting old or I didn’t clean well enough.

Also fixed the PS leak at the rack. The low pressure o ring from the new line was undersized (green o ring). Even the parts store o rings where thinner. The high pressure side, with the black o ring (from the new line) had a nice heavy feel when sliding the fitting (not dry). The low pressure was super light, almost like there wasn’t an o ring at all - didn’t feel right. The parts store replacement felt worse. I committed the mortal sin of re-using the unknown aged old o ring, but it felt nice and snug and had no visual indication of rot or tears. I’ll ride this way until I regret it.

I modified the shifter bezel to fit better, but still thing the trans sits too high. The LMR boot feels too short, when I shift into odd gears the back of the boot pulls the bezel up. It’s a brand new t5z, used tri-ax with new ford crossmember and trans mount (big hump on passenger side).
4656E394-9A50-47CB-97EF-AB024E40AE62.jpeg


Did the 3g swap. My replacement 2g the prior owner put in was actually hardwired - poorly. One of the two power lines (orange/black) wasn’t even spliced correctly and loose. Serious fire hazard. The upper bolt was also ~0.5” too short, so I helicoil’d the 3g and put a nice new 1.25” bolt in. Also took advice from elders here and added a ground from the stock ECM ground on the fender apron to the stock battery ground on the timing chain cover.

Coming up before the winter:
- I grabbed a 190lph Walbro that will go in
- Maybe paint the trim SEM trim black... maybe.
- I found some old underdrive pulleys in my parents shed, the FRPP blue crank/water pump. I *may* toss the crank pulley on (~4.36” dia). Will either keep the stock water pump pulley or grab a smaller cobra one - the underdrive water pump pulley (~5.25” dia) is garbage in my eyes. Grabbed a 1.9” alternator pulley to keeps its RPMs up

Spring time:
- I have a new contour fan, ordered a Derale 16795 and think I’ll grab a Be Cool radiator (not needed, but a want). Very on the fence with Mishimoto, but really don’t want to do things twice. Looking forward to fabbing up my own bracketry, I love the LMR kit but at $140 and dinner isn’t even included...

Summer time:
- Looking at 11r 170s to go with my explorer intake (TMoss ported lower). Keeping the stock cam/bottom end, maybe 24lbs injectors
- want to smooth/lightly touch up the upper explorer intake, might as well grab 70mm TB (Accufab) since the opening is ~67mm on the intake.
- Would like an off road H/X pipe (my current is 2.25” with cats) but really don’t want to throw codes (removing smog pump) or frustrate future me when getting an inspection.

Finally, not going with the ATS Brembos on this car. Cobra brakes are plenty enough for me - I’ll either sell/trade, or maybe get a new edge project to put them on.
 

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
98
52
28
32
Brooklyn
I have reached the depths of boredom and I’m about to put the car away for the winter, but, two minor :

1. Fixed the door chime. Mine was in excellent condition, just a little dirty and the foam ring was shot. Cleaned it up, and used this stuff cut to shape. Great sound now.
DB02DF2B-C849-45EE-986F-30760B6EF520.jpeg


2. Cleaned up the dimmer switch. This was sort of fun - drilled out three rivers, and the metal/black plastic halves come apart. I gently pulled the white wheel out from the two prongs resting on the spring. Cleaned everything, removed some corrosion build up on the contacts, added a tiny bit of lithium to the gear mesh, put it back together using some ⅛” rivets. This will go in when I fix the dash lights.
64FE0C96-83FD-40A2-A7A3-41C0274B50DC.jpeg

EB88DE63-DFA7-41FA-9984-E362F81633BA.jpeg


Think my IAC sensor is dying, helping cause the idle issues after the salt and peppers were cleaned. It’s very inconsistent now, sometimes not even an issue. When I cleaned the old sensor (which I think is original), it rattled and the new one doesn’t. I may have been born yesterday, but I’m going on a hunch the 31 year old sensor is past its useful life.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
34,012
10,290
224
Massachusetts
yeah, they pretty much just shut me down, rudely too I might add. They said they only sell kits and not single lines. I'll wait a week or two and then try it again and see if I can talk to someone a little more helpful.


Just to update. I did call back and got a friendly gentleman who was able to get me the right line. On it's way! Thanks for the part number as it made things much easier.
 

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
98
52
28
32
Brooklyn
Just to update. I did call back and got a friendly gentleman who was able to get me the right line. On it's way! Thanks for the part number as it made things much easier.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Having a fresh line professionally made gave me some piece of mind and one less thing to worry about. Fit was spot on too, thanks for the idea to begin with
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mustang5L5

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
98
52
28
32
Brooklyn
One week into winter storage and I’m already having withdrawals.
Grabbed some 3/8” brake line and a tubing bender on clearance to make a PCV tube for my explorer intake. Length is rough cut (and flare although not sure it’s necessary) so still need to fine tune, but happy with the results:
C6683092-C8F0-461C-AFB4-ABDAD09ADF59.jpeg

63EA7299-C955-49AC-9B65-9FB5C4DB15EB.jpeg

289AA844-BD02-4B4D-8492-E2590B4F582F.jpeg

I’ll use this in lieu of the stock rubber tubing (which I preferred since it’s molded to shape, but those seem to be long gone).

Also grabbed 8mm 1.25 x 25mm bolts for my triax shifter to trans mount. I’m currently using the stock lengths (20mm)and I baby the t5z so not critical but certainly a piece of mind fix.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mustang5L5