Gt-40p Intake Swap

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by KENS89LX, May 11, 2013.

  1. If you can, weld a tab on the end of the bolt and wrench it out that way. This has worked for me in the past as long as there is sufficient clearance.
  2. Broken bolt removal:
    This is for 5/16" bolts.

    1.) A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t.

    The prices here may be old and out of date, but the part numbers should still be good. I recommend that you do a search using the part numbers. Use drill bushing 5/16” OD, 5/32” ID, ¾” long, P/N 07010457, price $12.49 This centers the drill bit in the housing bolt hole so you don’t get off center and damage the manifold. drill bits - use 5/32” Cobalt/TiN coated bit. P/N 83240556, price $4.17 Screw/bolt extractors. Use EZY-OUT Screw Extractor P/N 63760037 Price $4.16

    One step specialty item: See Drill-Out® Broken Bolt Extractors drill bushing, reverse twist drill & extractor all in one unit. Best to use when the bolt breaks off with the remaining part below the start of the threads. .P/N 05027164. Price $24.40 each. You MUST have a reversing drill motor (either air or electric) to use this bit.

    2.) Test fit the drill bushing in the hole – this assumes that the bolt broke off below the surface. If the bushing is too loose, use some scotch tape wrapped around it to make a snug fit. The drill bushing helps center the drill bit up on the broken bolt so that it does not get off into the manifold. If the bushing does not fit at least 3/8” into the manifold, you may want to consider removing the manifold and attacking the remnant of the bolt shank with a propane torch and Visegrips. If not, then find a drill bit big enough to drill off some of the remnant of the bolt shank until you can get the drill bushing in the required 3/8” or deeper into the manifold. You will end up using the upper manifold to center the large drill bit on the broken bolt shank. This is not the best plan, since the aluminum manifold is soft and it would be easy to get the bit off center and damage the manifold. Alternately, you can use the upper manifold to center the drill bushing and use the 5/32" bit to drill the hole for the bolt extractor.

    3.) Once you have the drill bushing in place, chuck up the drill bit and drill the broken bolt. Use lots of WD40 to cool the drill bit. If you break the drill bit off in the bolt, it is time for a trip the automotive machine shop. Drill bits and easy outs are extremely hard and cannot be removed by ordinary means. It takes a solid carbide bit and extreme care to remove a broken drill bit or broken easy out.

    4.) When you have drilled about ½” into the broken bolt, then remove the drill bushing and use a hammer to tap the easy out into place. Then chuck up the easy out in a T handle tap wrench. Turn the tap wrench slowly counter clockwise and you will feel it dig into the broken bolt. If it starts to slip, tap on the tap wrench with the hammer to reseat the easy out into the bolt.

    5.) Keep turning and one of three things will happen:
    a.) The bolt will come out and your efforts will be rewarded.
    b.) Or the easy out will continue to slip and more efforts will not make it grip. This means you get attack the bolt remnant head on. You get to drill the bolt out to a thin shell & either re-tap the hole or install a helicoil threaded insert.
    c.) Or worst of all, the easy out will break off it the bolt shank. Then it is time to go to the automotive machine shop and pain in the wallet.
  3. Thanks for the info but its not the intake gaskets it was the throttle body-egr gasket but I found them. Thanks again
  4. The bolts I used was bougt from Lowes apparently it wasn't high-grade because it was not even tight when it twisted off. I am going to take the upper off tomorrow and see how far it is in the lower I'll keep ya posted
  5. OK put the egr/plenum gasket, throttle body gasket IAC gasket now it runs terrible I checked the vacuum lines don't see the problem is there something that needs reset Looking to take it to a shop shop let them figure it out. I have the c&l Maf meter w/ 24 lb I heard they have trouble out of these. Right now it is got a miss under load and sitting still when it is revved up. I sprayed starting fluid around lower upper intake now difference in rpms. hELP!!
  6. you had a diff in Rpm ? if so the lower has a vac leak

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  7. No change in rpm's I am going to fool with the fuel pressure, and timing...I don't have gauges to check the pressure check plugs. Would the egr valve cause it to miss? I put a different on from a different intake during the swap
  8. No but it would deff run messed up

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  9. UPDATE.... changed plugs & wires, a few wires were burned and cracked from the headers, runs alot better but not 100% still hesitation at about 2000 rpm is the worst give it throttle beyond that no problems..what is the best thing to tweek from this point? Anyone have luck with turning(clocking) the MAF. Plan on going to the big Ford show in Carlilse, PA so i want it running a little better at the cruising rpm's.
  10. I had a problem like this way back when and I tried Everything , timing , clocking maf and it ran great up top but had a small hesitation down low etc it ended being a super small vacuum leak just double check it all again

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  11. Thanks toolow 91 for the suggestions... I unhooked the egr and that helped a lot as far as driveability. I'm happy with it now its just recheck the fuel pressure and timing . By the way nice ride. LX's rules!!
  12. Dude I had the same issue !!!! maybe your egr valve is collapsed inside . mine is disconnected and I have that pigtail they sell in ebay for the CEL so that's not on and I love you car ESP the wheels

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  13. OK drove for a few days also changed dizzy, adj fuel press to 40, put another tips set at .998 now it is running worse not only stumbling part throttle now through the speed band. Now my next move is ??? I do have one of those chips that plug into the computer were they designed for stock engines? Just looking for answers. Also the egr is unhooked!
  14. Get rid of the chip , follow the surging idle check list and dump the codes and come back here with results

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  15. OK got lazy last couple of days. OK. ... Burnt out. Get back on it tomorrow.
  16. Question about the air charge sensor in the air box. It's way cooler in there so does that send a unique air charge signal to the computer for a more rich or lean condition?? I know it'll probably be rich condituon change, ....but a big difference??
  17. The intake was drilled for that but the sensor did look a little carboned up I cleaned it as good as possible. It just seems like it is a firing issue I tried a different distributor by but before I installed it I checked the fireby hooking the coil wire aand grounding it then spun the gear there w fire was not constant. So that being said I am wondering about the coil. the missing seems to get worse when the engine warms up. I removed the chip from the computer but no difference
  18. You said that you have a c&l meter for 24lb you have 24lb injectors in the car?
  19. Yes. Ford motorsport
  20. Ok just wanted to make sure