guys who rebuilt their t-5's
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Take bearings off??
3-jaw puller with a bearing removal tool.
If you aren't replacing the countergear, you don't need a press. I managed to rebuild a few t-5's with no press. Just the puller and heating th bearings and driving them on.
I do have access to a press at work though, so my latest t-5 i used the press.
Keep in mind, when installing bearings on the countergear, you MUST put it in the case first before pressing on the rear bearing. I learned this the hard way.
3-jaw puller with a bearing removal tool.
If you aren't replacing the countergear, you don't need a press. I managed to rebuild a few t-5's with no press. Just the puller and heating th bearings and driving them on.
I do have access to a press at work though, so my latest t-5 i used the press.
Keep in mind, when installing bearings on the countergear, you MUST put it in the case first before pressing on the rear bearing. I learned this the hard way.
Take it to a machine shop. They'll usually press your stuff for cheap, if they even charge you at all. I've had to do that a few times. Just be sure to have it all ready for them.
I am finding that peeps here in az are cheap bastiges and charge for every little thing. When I was in California I had walked into a few machine shos for the same kind of work and they took care of it in less than 5 minutes and just asked that I come back and visit if I needed some machine work. I returned to them several times for rebuilds and head work. Wish it were the same here.
I had some bushings go out on my 01 daewoo. took the control arms and bushings to a shop and at first it was $10. Then $20 (no reason given). I handed him both control arms and "oh for two? that's $40" I needed to get it done so I paid it.... Never went back to that shop and warn friends not to go as well.
I found a 6 ton press at harbor freight for around $70 and thinking about getting it. I wouldnt use it often but it would be nice to have for the little things. Plus I live in the middle of no mans land so it is a drive to get anything done. I would probably save more on gasif I bought it.
I had some bushings go out on my 01 daewoo. took the control arms and bushings to a shop and at first it was $10. Then $20 (no reason given). I handed him both control arms and "oh for two? that's $40" I needed to get it done so I paid it.... Never went back to that shop and warn friends not to go as well.
I found a 6 ton press at harbor freight for around $70 and thinking about getting it. I wouldnt use it often but it would be nice to have for the little things. Plus I live in the middle of no mans land so it is a drive to get anything done. I would probably save more on gasif I bought it.
I just did this. I used the Hanlon Motorsports video and highly recommend it. (he uses a press)
I was unable to find a bearing puller that would work. I'm not saying one doesn't exist just I couldn't find it. The problem is the distance from the end of the shaft to the bearings.
I used actual pry bars (Craftsman 3pc set form Sears) to get the bearings/gears off. Be careful not to pry on the teeth . The input shaft bearing is by far the worst to remove. If I rebuild one again I will get this one pressed off. There is no where to pry on it.
For assembly I put the shafts in the freezer and the bearings/gears in the oven at 300 degrees for ten minutes. Be careful not to heat the springs that hold the keys in too much. You can then tap (Not pound) the bearing son. I used a piece of pipe and an old bearing. Don't burn yourself. Also If you are married I don't recommend using the oven and freezer for transmission rebuild purposes while she is home.
I probably won't rebuild another one. I got lucky and there were no hard parts broken in mine. The rebuild kit is $200 to $250 and a steel bearing retainer is $40. Once you get it apart if there are any gears, or shift forks damaged, you must buy them and it can add up quick.
If I was to do it again I would remove the tailshaft and top cover and inspect it before I odrered any parts to make sure it was worth rebuilding.
I was unable to find a bearing puller that would work. I'm not saying one doesn't exist just I couldn't find it. The problem is the distance from the end of the shaft to the bearings.
I used actual pry bars (Craftsman 3pc set form Sears) to get the bearings/gears off. Be careful not to pry on the teeth . The input shaft bearing is by far the worst to remove. If I rebuild one again I will get this one pressed off. There is no where to pry on it.
For assembly I put the shafts in the freezer and the bearings/gears in the oven at 300 degrees for ten minutes. Be careful not to heat the springs that hold the keys in too much. You can then tap (Not pound) the bearing son. I used a piece of pipe and an old bearing. Don't burn yourself. Also If you are married I don't recommend using the oven and freezer for transmission rebuild purposes while she is home.
I probably won't rebuild another one. I got lucky and there were no hard parts broken in mine. The rebuild kit is $200 to $250 and a steel bearing retainer is $40. Once you get it apart if there are any gears, or shift forks damaged, you must buy them and it can add up quick.
If I was to do it again I would remove the tailshaft and top cover and inspect it before I odrered any parts to make sure it was worth rebuilding.
thanks for the advice. Like I said I will probably just buy a press. I like to have one for the little things. plus I can do me rear end gears then. I did them when I was in HAwaii but the military garage I was in had a press I used. Thanks for the advice guys.
I am going to get the steel bearing retainer, rebuild kit, 1-2 slider and a new second gear since this is where most my problems are. I have the video and this looks pretty straight foward.
it doesnt look like I will even take out the countergear as I have no whining at this time. I will look at it while it is in there but friends have told me just to leave it alone unless it is missing teeth.
thanks
I am going to get the steel bearing retainer, rebuild kit, 1-2 slider and a new second gear since this is where most my problems are. I have the video and this looks pretty straight foward.
it doesnt look like I will even take out the countergear as I have no whining at this time. I will look at it while it is in there but friends have told me just to leave it alone unless it is missing teeth.
thanks
While I'm thinking about it, something I wish I would have done before I rebuilt my T5 the first time is CLEAN the case thoroughly before you pull apart the T5. Grease and grime builds up in the crevices on the trans and you don't want to have that crap INSIDE the gearbox after a rebuild. I was lazy and just kind of wiped it down before I began, but all sorts of grit got all over everything and I had to take the time to clean all the inside parts. The cleaner your work area and your hands are the better off you'll be, these things are very sensitive to contaminants in the trans oil.
dayum clean tranny. Too bad they cant stay that way. Are there any problems with taking the rear housing off and then pressure washing it with the main shaft still in it (minus all the little parts that might come off). that way everything is held in while spray it. otherwise I just plan on laying everything in the drive way and dousing them with degreaser and spraying them off.
I mistyped earlier. I meant to say if I get the press everything will come out. if not then the counter gears will stay in.
I watched the video and am excited about doing this. looks very straight forward. Only thing that would suck is getting it open and finding out I have a cracked shift fork or something. the blockers and keys look easy enough to put in.
I mistyped earlier. I meant to say if I get the press everything will come out. if not then the counter gears will stay in.
I watched the video and am excited about doing this. looks very straight forward. Only thing that would suck is getting it open and finding out I have a cracked shift fork or something. the blockers and keys look easy enough to put in.
Everything inside is pretty much clean anyway. Just clean the trans externally first and then open it up. As you disassemble everything, just wipe the parts off with a rag. No real reason to degrease everything.
Then when i got it down to bare casing, i took everything to the car wash and powerwashed the case, top cover and tailhousing and then painted them with aluminum paint and began my reassembly.
The exterior is what gets filthy. Inside of the trans is relatively clean. This is what one looked like when i opened it up for the first time. Drain the fluid and not much to clean up really.
Of course, this is an original 30K mile T-5 i have squirreled away
But some of the 100K mile T-5's i've done have looked just as good
Then when i got it down to bare casing, i took everything to the car wash and powerwashed the case, top cover and tailhousing and then painted them with aluminum paint and began my reassembly.
The exterior is what gets filthy. Inside of the trans is relatively clean. This is what one looked like when i opened it up for the first time. Drain the fluid and not much to clean up really.
Of course, this is an original 30K mile T-5 i have squirreled away
But some of the 100K mile T-5's i've done have looked just as goodAttachments
Some more help if you don't already have free T5 manual...
See TTC: Product Literature to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
See TTC: Product Literature to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
Duncan McDougal
Active Member
Don't want to start a flame fest, but that's not exactly a great deal. IIRC my "Cobra Upgrade" Astro-built T5 was right around $750-800, after core.
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