innovate standalone??

[jimsstang91]

i just bought this and it was working at idle in my garage. well after a 5 min drive yesterday for the first time useing my new standalone. i guess it's broken. i do have the xd-1 it's giving me readings of like 5-22. and the little percentage thing on the right and the afr sometimes both light up and flicker back and forth. $400 bucks well spent.

 

[Daggar]

It sounds like you have an intermittent power problem. Do a free air test with your sensor and meter and see what it says then.

This may be a stupid question but you ARE using the wide band sensor that came with the meter, correct?

 

[86bluecobra]

is it a wide band or narrow band? if while driving it goes all over the place it maybe a narrow band . pretty much just a lite show while driving only really works at idle.

 

[jimsstang91]

it's the wideband. i did recalabrate it and nothing. at idle i was getting 15-20 and was told thats normal at idle. now it's at 5-6 like i'm running mentol some other fuel. it's the lc-1 and the xd-1.

 

[jimsstang91]

sorry i am using the senser that came with the kit.

 

[86bluecobra]

This is normal for at car with fuel injection.
When you are above 1500 rpm and lift off the throttle your ECU shut off the fuel injectors to save fuel and engine brake. When the injectors is off, your engine is just a "air pump" and because your XD-1 shows how much fuel you have in the exhaust air, it will read VERY lean like you does (o2).

At WOT you should read around 12,5 (turbo or Supercharger) or 13,5 (NA).
When cruising in your car your Narrowband sensor should adjust your ECU to 14,7 AFR. That's because your Catalyst converter works best at 14,7 (Lambda 1)

i found this quote could this be whats happening to you?

 

[86bluecobra]

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9
i would go here and post your problem. looks like the guys at innovative will help you easier then we can.

 

[gt90stang]

jimsstang91,

I think what you described is what happened to mine. Mine worked fine at idle and then 5 min. of driving and pegging lean. This was due to the sensor overheating, I made a heatsink out of a sheet of copper that is 4"x4"x0.062" and drilled a hole for the sensor to fit in the middle. When I install it I tighten the sensor and bend the copper sheet for clearance. Now it works fine. I worked with Klaus for several months to get it understood.

Your sensor should be mounted as far from the motor as possible but before the cats (if any) and they should be mounted between 9 and 3 O'clock position inserted into the exhaust from above, this keeps water from collecting in the sensor and damaging it.

Good Luck, Don

 

[86bluecobra]

Q: When do I need to make or install a heat sink?

A: The Bosch LSU4.2 wide-band O2 sensor (shipped as part of the LM-1 kit) is rated to operate at an exhaust gas temperature of < 1300 degrees (F), and a sensor housing temperature of < 900 degrees (measured at the bung) for maximum accuracy and control. When either of these operating temperature ranges is exceeded, the sensor can no longer be accurately controlled. Further, operating at or over these temperatures for any length of time can significantly reduce the lifetime of the sensor. The LM-1 is designed to display an error message under these conditions (currently 08- Sensor Timing Error) rather than provide inaccurate readings. For some turbo vehicles, rotary engines, and other setups, this error message can be encountered with annoying frequency.

Q: How do I make a heat sink?

A: Take a 4-5” square piece of copper (optimal) or aluminum, and punch/drill a hole just big enough to fit over the threads of the O2 sensor. Bend it so that there are two “wings on either side of the sensor. Mount the heat fin between the sensor and the sensor washer. Here's a link to a company that sells custom sized sheets of copper cost effectively. We recommend 0.0647" thickness 4" x 4". (Or you can buy the Innovate HBX-1).

there is some more stuff bout heat sinks off innovative website.