Installed the U/D pullies and Taurus efan with FAL controller- Need a lil help

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by mikestang63, Apr 20, 2013.

  1. So I decided to do the install today as the car was running a little warmer than I wanted. I THINK the clutch fan was in fact the culprit. :doh:

    View attachment 129654

    View attachment 129655

    The whole dam fan had cracks through it and you can see the black marks all over it where the fluid is leaking.

    So I got the U/D pullies installed- only hitch was going to Home Depot to get the allen head screws and lock washers and the to Autozone where the idiot rep gave me the wrong PS pulley puller so I couldnt swap out the old one with the new powder coated pulley and bracket.

    The fan took me a good 4 hours as I had to trim it, fab up some L brackets, painted it body color, and swapped over the overflow tank- needed a new longer hose.

    Here's the problem- I wired everything up per the FAL instructions and the writeups here and on the Corral, but the fan runs ALL the time- as soon as you connect the - battery cable it comes on.

    I bought this one off a guy on Ebay who said it was a 33054m but this one does not have the wires for the battery - and + installed on it ( no yellow,purple, or red wires and, it has 4 large - posts. One is in the spot where the #1 negative male connector is on the 33054. There is a #1 male connector next to the #2 but the fan doesnt come on with the ground attache to it,

    I hooked up all the wires as follows

    Nothing on the #1 male connector next to the #2
    Battery Neg to the large post with the hole for a screw
    Battery Positive to#4
    Fan high- blue to #3
    Fan Negative to #2
    #8 to the black with green stripe wire on the A/C
    #9 for ingnition on to the coolant overflow hot wire (middle wire)
    radiator temp probes to 10 and 11
    I installed a 40 amp fuse on the battery hot wire and attached it to the starter side of the solenoid

    This is what the 33054 looks like on Summit. Again where the black wire is I have a 4th post, so I attached the ground there.

    Mine looks like this.....

    View attachment 129657

    is it this? What model is this.



    You guys have any suggestions as I need to drive this to work Monday. Thinking this aint the 33054 but I gotta make it work. I guess I could wire in a manual switch but that defeats the thermostat control and I don't feel like drilling holes in my interior.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. Swap your A/C wire to terminal 7, and turn the fan adjustment up. Also, if there's ANY shenanigans going on with the connector at the fan, it'll cause no end of problems. If you havent' already, you might have to remove the factory connectors altogether and wire some new ones in.
  3. OK some progress. Hooked up the battery - to the #1 post. Solved the one problem of the fan always on. That - ground post is just that, it is a neg post and bypasses the controller setting so the fan will go on. Now I have another problem, the fan won't come on at all with the thermostat setting, I know the fan is working because it works as soon as you turn on the A/C. I dialed the screw all the way back counterclockwise easily but no go. I know those wires are thin but they seem to be connected to the probe and are in the 10 and 11 slots.

    The LED light1 1 is on when the car is on.

    The fan does pull a LOT of air and cools down the motor, but i'd like to get the thermostat control solved as I need to turn on the a/c to turn the fan on. I know those controllers are sensitive. Any way to test the probe and thermostat settings on the controller.
  4. Think I got it all straightened out. I jumped the #10 &11 posts on the controller, turned the key to on and then off, and the fan kicked on slowly and then shut off after about 30 seconds so I know the fan is working. Next I tested the probe wires with an Ohm meter. Got nothing in that it read 1. Found out one of the wires got crimped near the VSC. Shortened up the wire and put on a new connector and now I have resistance on the meter from the probe wires. Gonna take it for a spin later to make sure everything is ok but pretty sure it's fine.
  5. Did it work correctly??? Probably too drained to post eh...
  6. pretty sure the stupid radiator probe is the culprit. The fan works fine with the 10&11 jumped or when you put the A/C on, but not by the thermostat control using the probe. Think I'll call FAL tech support tomorrow and pick their brain. Worst case for now is just leave it with the 10&11 bridged so the fan runs all the time. Not the most efficient but at least it will keep it cool for now. I may just get a water temp switch that turns on at 195 and off at 180 and tap it into either the stat housing or the upper radiator hose as these radiator temp probes are hit or miss IMO.

    I'll take another look at it tomorrow after work and post back.
  7. i had almost the same issue with my efan i finally just gave up and wired a manual switch inside the car ... i actually prefer it now just because on hot starts it puts lets draw on battery and i can just kick it on right after. but yeah just a option
  8. Not sure if you read this or not:

    I would think it wouldn't be a bad thing to have the low speed of the efan on all the time - but what do I Know:shrug: The stock fan in in cooling mode to some degree alll the time...
  9. Well what I have done is for now just left the fan with the 10 & 11 jumped so it comes on all the time. I spoke with FAL and they are kind enough to send me out a new radiator probe. I swapped the stock 2 3/8 alternator pulley for the smaller 1 1/11'16 pulley that came with the kit as with the U/D even with the 130 amp alt it wasn't fully charging.

    The only other gremlin I need to chase is now after about 10 min the CEL comes on.... no codes are thrown off?.It goes away when you turn it off and then back on. ... thinking maybe a ground issue with the fan wiring.
  10. ********************************************************************************************************

    Did you change pulleys and radiator stuff at same time? Reason: wondering about CEL. That might be due to Alternator Not charging and being sensed by the computer. I'd like to get this understood before I start my install of the pulleys and efan setup. BTW, never got a return email from DCC.

    My UPD's are from BBK and the crank pulley is significantly smaller than 86 OEM. The waterpump pulley is the same size as 86 OEM. As for the alternator pulley: BBK unit is a bit larger than 86 OEM.

    Do you measure the pulley from tha outer rim for dia? or mic the dia of the belt contact surface? Some pulley rim-lips may be thicker.......

    LMK what works out in the end, you got me on the edge of the upgrade do or don't do....
  11. There is no alternator trigger for the CEL.

  12. Drove it for the past 2 days and no CEL, The alt is charging fine with the smaller pulley and the temp gauge seems to be a smidge higher but acceptable. Wired but it is like the car needed a day or two to "adjust" to the new setup.

    I wouldnt sweat it either way. I'll drive it around for a week or so and if I don't like it 100%, I can just swap back the stock pulleys. Takes 20 minutes. For now, no charging or cooling issues with the 1 11/16 " alt pulley on the 130 amp alt and the U/D crank and h20 pulley. I did need to get about an inch shorter belt as the one I had didnt give enough tension.

    Keep ya posted.
  13. Mike, I retracted these comment off the Convt. top thread. I have the tendancy to get off-topic when I feel a thread is going dead... the OP didn't engage the topic. Anyway:


    I hope I got the street UDP's, that's what I selected. Is the crank pulley smaller or larger on the race version??? The CP I got is smaller than my stock unit. As I stand correcte: the water pump pulley is NOT exactly the same as stock 86, and the alternator pulley is bigger by a margin - i'll measure mine to see what is is: Be right back.....

    All measured from the outside rim of the pulleys.

    My NEW Kit is the BBK 1553 says it the Power PLus Series... Crank = 4 5/8" Waterpump = 5 1/4" Alternator = 2 1/2"

    Stock 1986 GT Pulleys measure: Crank = 6" Waterpump 51/2" Alternator = 2 3/8"

    When measuring around the actual belt path of the pulleys the numbers are a bit diff. I guess due to the lip / rim of the pulleys being various from stck to aftermarket. In the case of the alternator pulley this may make a diffrence...
  14. Dwayne, those pulleys are advertised to maintain full charging and cooling. If you have a stick you should be fine.

    The race crank pulley is like 3 1/2"

    I have an AOD so I got the March Power Amp 2015 set. The only difference is the Alternator pulley. On the regular March 2010 set it is 2 3/8" like yours.

    Crank 4 3/8"
    H20 5 1/2"
    Alt 1 11/16"

    Your set may actually cool and charge a little better that the March without the smaller alternator pulley as your crank pulley is larger and the H20 pulley smaller.

    I got the new megafuse holder and radiator probe from FAL today. The fuse holder is MUCH better than the one that comes with the kit. Comes with a huge 40 amp blade style fuse, waterproof holder and 10g wire.

  15. Thanks: I was a bit worried for a minute. I thought you had the same setup as mine. When I ordered the pulley set I was certain the spec listed normal cooling etc.

    Can't wait til you tell me it's fixed! I'm holding out til you do:shrug: I love these wingding things, they are so fun...except the one about the mom. I can't believe it's allowed on here, but I just respect mom's and women, what do I know.

    Hope it all goes well. I'm off to shop for more parts.... my wife: :nono:

    BTW, check out the pics I posted on the Urethane Bushing thread, LMK what you think.
  16. I would go ahead and throw them on. Worst case is if you don't like it, just go back to stock. Don't put U/D pulleys on without a 130 amp alt though,
  17. I got the alternator already.

    Man, once you get stuff all torn apart on these projects, it is tuff to figure out what to do next! Hats off to guys like RaceO who have every nut pulled!

    I feel like im working on every piece of my care at the same time..... it can get over whelming. One thing leads to another. First, I was going to just clean up the engine bay a bit - that lead to an all out paint job requiring all wiring being removed. Probably a good thing, because I needed to get everything out of the way on the firewall for the Cobra Booster install. NOW that I am planing the A/C install which requires dash removal, I might as well run the new stereo wiring and install the tricked-out instrument cluster that I bought - right.

    This is going to take a while!:neat: I better learn to have fun doing it. But I just want to roll in it NOW!!!:bang:

    So I will scratch the UDP hunt off the list for now.
  18. Hey Mike, had a question for you. I installed a FAL VSC on my car a couple weeks ago too but just got around to wiring up the manual "ON" switch. The switch has a little LED which lights up when it's on, but it doesn't kick the fan on. Did you wire up a switch with yours? Any issues with it?
  19. I finally got it figured out. Turns out the damn VSC I had was FAL was great and sent me out a new one and it works fine now. Comes on when it is supposed to.

    I didnt wire it up with a switch. I just jumped the 10 &11 on the controller for a few days until the new controller came.

    To test the fan you can do it a couple of ways

    1. jumper the # 10 and #11 post on the VSC that is for the temp probe. The fan should come on a few seconds after key on.
    2. Or, when the car is running, turn on the A/C. The fan should come on at 60%.

    I'm doing this from memory but I think you wire up a manual switch to #6? You can use a 16g wire and a simple 3 post on/off lighted toggle switch, as it doesn't carry a high amp load.

    I wired mine the following way. I soldered all the wires when possible except for the male connectors on the VSC posts and used shrink wrap over all of them ( from memory so double check)

    #1 on VSC (black) - battery ground 10g wire
    #2 on VSC (purple) fan ground 10g wire
    #3 on VSC ( yellow) fan hi hot 10g wire
    #4 red- battery positive- run through at least a 40 amp megafuse
    #6 VSC post- saysit is for a manual switch but when I spoke with FAL was told it is simply a ground post
    #8 post to A/C yellow/black hot wire 12 or 14g wire
    #9 VSC to key on hot source . I tapped into the coolant overflow.
    #10 and #11 - radiator probe wires

    hope this helps
  20. Thanks for the info. Mine comes on with the temperature probe but I want the ability to turn it on manually, kind of a safety backup. The instructions and wiring diagram that came with mine (model #31165) says that terminal #6 is for a manual "on" switch and terminal #5 is for a manual "off" switch. I have a 3 prong switch wired up as instructed (ground, 12V power with key on, and the load prong to the #6 terminal on the fan). When I turn it on, nothing happens. I'll check my connections tomorrow, maybe re-do the ground, then get in touch with FAL to see if terminal #6 really is for a manual "on" switch.