Intake or Cam?

My personal opinon would be not to go with a 75mm TB. Yes it is good to match diameters of parts since it creates good airflow, but when you throw on a 75mm TB on a BASIC bolt on GT, you might gain a little power but you will lose some significant torque. Its been test proven by numerous performace shops, engine builders etc, its not just my personal opinion. Guys running 75's usually have big stroker motors or some hefty power adders under their hoods. The rule of thumb is 65mm for basically stock, 70mm for a mild setup, 75mm for power adder, and bigger than that when you start making insane power. Just my opinion but its your money. You do what you think is best.
 
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I vote for the 75mm TB too. People complain all day about a power loss with bigger TB's. The truth is that the velocity of the airflow is made in other parts of the motor. Sure the TB might have a impact on it but those other parts have a much bigger impact on it.

If i were to get a TB, i would get one that would work for a mild setup and work in the future for when u build it up. Thus a 75. But on a mild motor a 65 or 70 will work...but are you gonna wanna have to sell it to upgrade later?
 
fiveo'cobra said:
My personal opinon would be not to go with a 75mm TB. Yes it is good to match diameters of parts since it creates good airflow, but when you throw on a 75mm TB on a BASIC bolt on GT, you might gain a little power but you will lose some significant torque. Its been test proven by numerous performace shops, engine builders etc, its not just my personal opinion. Guys running 75's usually have big stroker motors or some hefty power adders under their hoods. The rule of thumb is 65mm for basically stock, 70mm for a mild setup, 75mm for power adder, and bigger than that when you start making insane power. Just my opinion but its your money. You do what you think is best.

Prove it. What are you gonna lose, 4 ft/lbs of torque when close to stock?? Furthermore, your rule of thumb is bunk because TB size matters LESS when your air intake is pressurized. Go to turbomustangs.com and look at guys running 10s with 65mm TBs.

Or search for threads from Ernan aka Slow5.0 that show him gaining trq and hp by switching from a 65mm tb to a 75mm tb. On a stock block 302 with an HCI and boltons. Hardly a stroker motor and N/A. And if the original poster is planning on a buildup, even if gradual, he's not gonna want to buy the same part twice. Like how I have to buy two TBs now.:nonono:

Adam
 
Black95GTS said:
Also, my philosophy is that trick flow inc. knows more about engine modification then some guy on a forum, and if they want a 75mm TB, then damnit, they're gonna get one!
View attachment 490570 :stupid:

Amen to that.

To be fair, there are some pretty fricken amazingly knowledgable guys on this forum. Plenty of them really. But I just don't understand the rule of thumb on TB size. If TFS recommends something for their set up, then go with that.

BTW, if the original poster goes with an intake, a TB is not really needed at all right now. Spend those bucks on a MGW shifter and subframes, like some geniusly smart guy suggested earlier. :D
 
haha i opend up a can of worms. hopefully my 3:73s will be finished getting put in tomorrow night, im really looking forward to it - except the gas.. yuck. just because my car's black (made a thread with some pics about a month ago i guess) i really like the black trick flow street, or maybe even the heat kit. a good friend of mine thats putting the gears in keeps telling me i should piece together a new nitrous kit. because it will get me the best bang for the buck. he said to just buy the bottle, lines, and selenoids separate and we'll set it up; which sounds pretty good. then on the other hand i could just got with a set of used rims and drag tires. i was told a throttle body (which will come about a month later) after the intake will only give me about .3 or .4 seconds. while drag tires will give me about .5, and nitrous could get over a second with 150 shot. just trying to weigh every option here.

then again on a completely different view i could go with a much needed paint job and try to get a cobra front bumper, ram air hood, saleen wing, and tonneau covers.

or on a competely different hand i could get a custom tv and ps2 installed like i had set up in my last car. even though i'm still very leaning towards speed.

but also i just now though, what about a chip. ex superchips, diablosport, etc.? are they any count without a power adder since they are 300+ dollers?
 
nmcgrawj said:
But with the computer mods, its not really needed before you have mods.

Chip NO
Self Tuner Maybe

If you still have the stock heads and cam, then there really is no need for a new tune is there?

Chip NO
Self Tuner Maybe

Has anyone ever gotten a chip on a stock motor and felt or saw an increase in power worth the couple hundred bucks it cost to get it?

A Chip is not worth the "couple hundred bucks" from my point of view
A Self Tuner will set you back way more than 200 bux so ......
NO WAY is it worth the small gain for the high cost

Now ... here is where the Maybe comes into my reply

If you got a plan that is gonna take you to h/c/i & all the supporting parts for a goal of 300rwhp or a bit better
and
You wanna be in control of your tune
then
You're gonna buy the tuning interface anyway
so
You can make it easier on yourself if you start to learn how to self tune on a combo (stock or near stock) that does not have a bunch of issues from things like
larger inj's
after market maf
cam with specs that throw idle airflow values totally outta whack
and all the other things that a h/c/i combo can bring with it.

IMHO, you bring up some very good points here Nate :nice:

Grady
 
final5-0 said:
Chip NO
Self Tuner Maybe



Chip NO
Self Tuner Maybe



A Chip is not worth the "couple hundred bucks" from my point of view
A Self Tuner will set you back way more than 200 bux so ......
NO WAY is it worth the small gain for the high cost

Now ... here is where the Maybe comes into my reply

If you got a plan that is gonna take you to h/c/i & all the supporting parts for a goal of 300rwhp or a bit better
and
You wanna be in control of your tune
then
You're gonna buy the tuning interface anyway
so
You can make it easier on yourself if you start to learn how to self tune on a combo (stock or near stock) that does not have a bunch of issues from things like
larger inj's
after market maf
cam with specs that throw idle airflow values totally outta whack
and all the other things that a h/c/i combo can bring with it.

IMHO, you bring up some very good points here Nate :nice:

Grady


Likewise Grady :cheers: