Let the projects begin on my 67 Fastback

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
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Minneapolis, MN
Here is my 67 Fastback. It has been stored for the last 12/13 years, so it needs some TLC. You can see the chrome in the engine bay has surface rust and the some wires have been chewed on by critters. Still runs like a champ though. Now that the weather is nice here in Minnesota I am about to start some projects to improve the car and make it mechanically sound. I’d love to do a ground up resto on it some day when finances allow, but for now I just want to make it safer to cruise around. Suspension, brake swap, and few other things are the 1st projects. I’ll be asking a lot more questions in the coming weeks as know I will run into problems. Local Stangnet-er HACK has even offered to help out. I’ll post picks as I go.
 
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good luck! For a long time I kept trying to find the best ways and best parts, but I finally figured out that sometimes just being able to drive it while I save for more goodies is worthwhile.Frame off would be nice, but driving gives me a reminder why I spend thousands on this beast.
 
MitchGT said:
good luck! For a long time I kept trying to find the best ways and best parts, but I finally figured out that sometimes just being able to drive it while I save for more goodies is worthwhile.Frame off would be nice, but driving gives me a reminder why I spend thousands on this beast.

Thanks Mitch. I'll keep you all posted on my progress and problems.
 
Good luck. I've recently started a similar project with my '65 Coupe. Yeah, a ground up restoration would be great, but unless I get nominated for OverHaulin, then I aint got the funds. Like you say, I want to get it back on the road to drive it. Good luck and keep the posts coming.
 
Speaking as someone who not driven their classic car in 13 years...there is a certain wisdom in what they Geordie and Mitch just said.

Of course I've been able to get my performance fix from a 92GT, a 97 Cobra and now an 05GT while my old one sat on blocks (92-01) or while I've been working on her (02-now).

But damn, I really do miss being able to drive her :(
 
Just wanted to show some progress. With some help from HACK I Got all the old suspension out. ANYONE need rear air shocks or front gas monroe’s or any other original 67 suspension pieces? Front drums or V8 Spindles? PM ME.
The new leafs springs are Maier Racing 165 Race springs with Poly bushings. Note the front stacked leafs. Maier claims that this helps eliminate wheel hop or the need for traction bars. I’ll let you know how it works out. I’ll post more pics as I get further along.
I’m sure I’ll have more questions to.
 
Good luck on your fastback.I have a 66 that I have pulled the engine out and am going to sand blast the engine compartment this weekend.I only live about 1HR/30Min south of you.Next time I'm up in the Cities I will look you up. :cheers:
 
More progress w/ lots of help from HACK. The conversion is not as easy as I imagined. MANY trips to the auto and hardware stores this weekend.
Got the front suspension together and mounted the front brakes.

HAVE QUESTION ON A NEW THREAD FOR HELP on brake lines.

New A-arms, 1” anti-roll bar, TCP Strut Rods, 68,69 discs conversion w/ slotted rotors, stainless flex hose and semi-metallic pads. Coils are 620 that I had in it. More to come.

1fstpony let me know next time you are up this way.
 

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67MustangManiac –
I’m taking pictures and keeping notes. A lot of little things have popped up. I’d be happy to share my problems when you are ready to do your disc swap.


19simmons65-
I called Maier they asked what I was running. I said a strong 289 with maybe a stroker down the road. So they suggested going to the 165’s.
-they do NOT come with any hardware
-Just the front rubber bushing, but I upgraded to a Poly
-They also recommend heavy duty rear shackles to help the leafs work as intended – they are about $70.00
 
Well, we were able to get it back on the ground.
It took many trips to the auto parts store and buying up brake fittings at all the stores in town. They all only seem to carry one of each when you need 4.
If you are going to do a Drum to Disc swap in your 67 to a 68/69 style you will need 1/4 to 3/8 brake fittings as pictured. They are used to fit the stock hard lines to the Russel Stainless Flex hoses that connect to the calipers. I will have to sit down at one point and make a parts list to hopefully save someone all the headaches I had in this “Direct” swap.

The Maier leafs dropped the rear a bit more than what it was and the 57-59 9” brought the wheels in a bit. I am going to have to cut the front 620’s to get it level.

Now having some problem with my Rear SSBC discs.

It never stops.
 
notny41 said:
Pbum and Hack, where are you guys at? I'm in cottage grove - would like to hook up sometime. Once we get done with this october weather we've been having.

P
Hi, I'm in Minneapolis near the U of MN. Meeting up sounds like fun.

Yeah, it's really been miserable, huh? A coworker of mine lives in Wright county and it was snowing yesterday morning up there.
 
Some before and after shots of the rear end

Before-

I had a 67-70 9” with 3.22 open and drum brakes that I had on my previous 8” –
-Monroe AIR Shocks. any one want them? PM me

After
– 57-59 9” (1” shorter on each side)
– 3.25 Trac Lok - Maybe an equaloc? Out of a 66 Cyclone. The 57-59 rear does NOT have an oil Fill hole. The 66 3rd member does also NOT have a Fill hole.
I found this out after it was assembled and mounted in the car.
I thought I was out of luck but I just used a long hose on the gear oil pump and went in through the short axle side of the housing. I was able to add the traction modifier and gear oil that way. I was panicking for a while until a I figured out how to get oil in there. If you do the swap and get a new 3rd member check it first. It might be a good idea to put in a fill hole in the housing when you have it out.
– Ron Morris reinforced spring plates. I had to open them up a bit. They are for 7/16 Bolts. The threads on the U-bolts I bought were a bit bigger than that.
– Maier Racing 165 Race Leaf Springs – Poly Bushings and Heavy Duty Shackles
– KYB Shocks
– SSBC rear discs - Like the rest of this project I have encountered some bugs. The rear of the rotors are rubbing the calipers
:bang:
 

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I think I cured the rear disc problem.
I used some washers (2 per bolt) to help space out the calipers over the rotors. It seemed to do the trick.
I don’t understand why it didn’t just line up with the brackets it came with!!

I went to take it out for a spin and I must have moved my battery cable when replacing the steering stuff because it rubbed up against the header and burnt about to 1 mile from my house killing the power to my car.

Just got a new battery cable from summit and I need to have it cut and crimped (trunk mounted)

The steering kit I bought also came with the wrong idler arm, I called and they sent me out the correct one. I have purchased a lot of stuff lately from Summit, Laurel Mt. Mustang and NPD. Good experiences with all of them.

New Idler is in.
The front was sitting too high so I cut 1/4 coil off of each of the 620’s. Still waiting to put it back on the ground until I re-route the new battery cable.

Also replaced the rear tranny seal on my Toplaoder.
 
The brakes seem to be good. I have yet to try a panic stop. One thing I noticed right away is that 4-wheel discs don’t lock up like my 4 drums did. I like the feel of my MC. It’s an 84 SVO model and feels good on my non-power brakes.

Fried a battery but got a new one.

I cut 1/4 coil off the front 620’s I think I need to cut off another 1/4 coil.

What do you all think?

I’m almost considering holding off until I get a new rims and tires to replace my 14” cragars and then doing the final cuts on the springs.