Made a small timing adjustment, now it won't start.

[JohnW63]

I never really asked, regarding the idle surge thread. How much of a surge is that referring to? In our case it's a good 500-600 rpm.

 

[General karthief]

The idle surge thread deals with that, it basically is a systems check for surging, high idle and stalling issues,
It was put together by Jrichker with help from other knowledgeable members to diagnose ill running efi fords with the eec iv computers.

 

[JohnW63]

So the amount of surge the thread is dealing with could be in the range I have?

 

[Noobz347]

Yes

And for the record: It's not about the surge. It's about ensuring all the pieces and parts are working correctly and that there are no leaks or damaged components.

If those things are all true then you can [not] have a surge problem. The surge is just a symptom that something is wrong, leaking, broken, loose, or out of range.

 

[JohnW63]

I found the fuel pressure regulator is bad. Fuel comes out the port for the vacuum hose. I'll swap that out and see how it runs.

How do the salt and pepper shakers come off the intake? The cables are in the way of the 3rd nut on the fuel regulator.

 

[General karthief]

They are attached to the upper intake with a big plastic retainer that clips on, remove the bolt cover, reach under the two connectors and pull the bottom of the retainer out and the top unhooks when you pull up.
Most of the time the plastic retainer breaks so be careful.

 

[JohnW63]

I hate the " most of the time it breaks " sorts of replies. I'll see if there are any good video clips too.

 

[General karthief]

I hate the " most of the time it breaks " sorts of replies. I'll see if there are any good video clips too.

I hope the video clip don't break

 

[Noobz347]

 

[peglegry13]

I'm not sure but I think in cold start up it has a set of perimeters the computer uses.
Lets ask a few questions since this is a transplant.
Are all the factory grounds in place?
there are several that are very important, one in the injector harness, two computer grounds, and one that grounds the engine to the firewall, the locations can be found in the 'surging idle checklist'. Is the ACT sensor present? Is the engine temp sensor present? It is located on the heater tube that runs down the passenger side of the intake.
How is the fuel system configured?
Maybe a pic of the engine compartment would help.

Any one ground will cause issues. It's not a fun rat race wire chase but I'm betting it's going to be your issue.

 

[JohnW63]

Is there a slick , make it your self , tool to get the back allen screw out and back in? I don't see any way to start that hard to touch one by hand, and when taking it out, I don't want to drop it in the valley the fuel rail goes down. I'm thinking that a 4mm ratching wrench of some sort and a stub of a 4mm allen wrench in it would work. The only single wrench I've found for 4mm is this one.

Amazon product ASIN B0002SR8AKView: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14540-Headlight-Adjusting-Ratchet/dp/B0002SR8AK/ref=asc_df_B0002SR8AK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16489888555551357533&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031442&hvtargid=pla-571051917508&psc=1

 

[evintho]

A magnetic 4mm allen wrench will work for that hard to reach screw.

Amazon product ASIN B07D72LK6LView: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Ball-Magnetic-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B07D72LK6L?th=1

 

[JohnW63]

Evintho,

I don't see how that tool would be able to get in that space. A simple 90 degree Allen wrench needs to be cut down a bit, to have room, to be removed and reinserted for each turn. Getting the screw to be started and tightened again would be another trial.

 

[JohnW63]

I got one of these to get the screws out.

Amazon product ASIN B07D4DZB1TView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4DZB1T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


It worked great. Getting that back screw in has been a problem. The tool is too thick to be able to angle a bit to get the screw started and unless there is some tension, will not ratchet. I even glued some thread on the tip of the screw and carefully pulled the thread through the bracket and the hole in the new regulator to hold it in place while trying to get the screw started. No luck.

If I could see how to get the salt and pepper shakers off the plastic bracket that holds them to the intake, I may just remove the intake and pulled the fuel rail off and install the regulator that way! If I remove the rail, do I need a set of new O rings for the injectors?

 

[JohnW63]

Can I remove the bolts holding the driver's side of the rail in place and get more space by lifting it up or would that also require new o-rings for the injectors on that side?

 

[Noobz347]

You should have o-rings on-hand [just in case] along with a small tube of lithium grease. [Super] light coat on the o-rings as you press-fit it all back together.

A small bit of engine oil works just as well.

 

[JohnW63]

Are there two o-rings on the fuel injectors? One where the rail fits and one where it sealed in the manifold? I'm pretty sure my Jeep is that way. If so, should I have a few of both 0-rings / seals?

 

[General karthief]

2 per injector, just like a jeep or all injectors I've seen, get a bag full. Make sure where the O ring goes is clean and lube the O ring with motor oil real good.

 

[JohnW63]

Are there two part numbers for the O-rings. One for the rail side and one for the intake side? I am not seeing both at Summit Racing.

 

[General karthief]

O rings are the same.